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Old 11-11-10, 07:23 PM   #1
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how to remove suntour superbe front derailleur clamp

This superbe front derailleur has one of the seperate clamps that attach to the derailleur by an allen head bolt in the face of the derailleur. The derailleur came off the clamp easily, but I can't figure out how to remove the clamp from the frame. It looks like there is a bolt stud slid through 2 ends of the clamp, and one end has to come over the bolt end to be removed. I don't see a way to do this without serious damage though.

Does anyone know how to do this? I'll get pics up later tonight if needed.

thanks in advance
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Old 11-11-10, 07:49 PM   #2
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post a picture
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Old 11-11-10, 08:14 PM   #3
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here's a pic. I forgot to mention there are little tabs on the top and bottom, and I have them pryed up already.
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Old 11-11-10, 08:18 PM   #4
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Old 11-11-10, 08:33 PM   #5
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Slide the spacer block out from behind the bolt, that should give you enough room to push the bolt back, and lift the outer end of the clamp past it.

Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
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Old 11-11-10, 08:38 PM   #6
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I like the frame disassembly idea, but this is a Fuji Opus 3....so I don't think so

There doesn't appear to be a spacer block. It looks like just the bolt. and the bolt won't move. there's a couple mm of space to move the bolt, but it just won't budge
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Old 11-11-10, 09:01 PM   #7
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So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
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Old 11-11-10, 09:08 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
wow how did I miss that? sure are threads. Thanks for the awesome eyes!
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Old 11-11-10, 10:48 PM   #9
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So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
That is exactly correct. I miss old Suntour stuff. Sometimes they did this sort of extraordinarily complex stuff just to prove they could.
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Old 11-12-10, 12:32 AM   #10
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I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.

Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.

If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.

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Old 11-12-10, 01:55 AM   #11
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I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.

Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.

If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.

that's nice for sure.
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Old 11-12-10, 11:01 PM   #12
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I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt.
You got it! I had an '84 Fuji with Suntour Cyclone with the same style clamp.
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Old 11-13-10, 07:19 AM   #13
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Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
Someone is sure to take this suggestion seriously. I can't wait for their followup posting!
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Old 11-13-10, 12:12 PM   #14
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Someone is sure to take this suggestion seriously. I can't wait for their followup posting!
Yah.....I dunno why no one suggested to just cut the seat tube near the middle with a hacksaw, slide off the FD, jam a piece of broom handle in the tube then go riding......
Oop's forgot about the Elmer's glue......

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Old 11-25-14, 08:20 AM   #15
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OK, I'm reviving this old thread. I have what I assume is the same front derailler as the OP (pic).

I'm thinking that the stud bolt should unscrew and that the "washer" on top of the clamp arms is actually part of the stud. I assume that once the stud is out the arms can be spread and the clamp removed, correct?

But also, the stud is in there good and I'm afraid of stripping it. Suggestions? LBS (yet again)? I've already hit it with penetrating oil.

Last edited by jethin; 11-25-14 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 11-25-14, 11:21 PM   #16
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Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
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Old 11-25-14, 11:30 PM   #17
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Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
+1. Unscrew that stud and all will be revealed.

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Old 11-26-14, 08:59 AM   #18
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Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
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+1. Unscrew that stud and all will be revealed.
OK great. But the stud's not budging and I'm afraid it's going to strip. Any other options for removing it? My guess is the best plan would be to: 1) go at it with the snuggest screwdriver fit I have and if it strips 2) somehow cut a notch into the stud for flathead removal. I don't have the tools for the latter so my LBS or some such would have to perform the operation. Thanks for your help.
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Old 11-26-14, 09:09 AM   #19
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Are you trying to save the FD, or simply remove it so you can mount another?

If it's only a matter of removing it, you can grab the stud with vice grips and try to turn it. Or if that fails, carefully saw through the band on the left side - where it's away from the frame - with a saw or Dremel.
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Old 11-26-14, 09:09 AM   #20
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OK great. But the stud's not budging and I'm afraid it's going to strip. Any other options for removing it?
Have you tried using a little penetrating oil to break it free? Apply a little PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight, then have a go with your best-fitting screwdriver.
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Old 11-26-14, 09:41 AM   #21
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Yes, I've tried penetrating oil. It's hard to get it in there and has had no effect so far. I don't want to strip this thing because I suppose they're pretty hard to come by.
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Old 11-26-14, 11:04 PM   #22
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Yes, I've tried penetrating oil. It's hard to get it in there and has had no effect so far. I don't want to strip this thing because I suppose they're pretty hard to come by.
You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old 11-27-14, 08:23 AM   #23
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You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks Jeff, I'll do just that. Will focus on turkey, naps and oil soaking for the next couple of days and will update after the operation. Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old 11-27-14, 08:38 AM   #24
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It makes sense that that stud is super tight or else it would unscrew every time you removed the FD. Try leaving the bike outside. That little bit of shrinkage from getting cold might be enough to help break it free.
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Old 12-05-14, 07:53 PM   #25
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You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
Welp, I gave it a good soak, got out my best screwdriver and lined it up just so, gave the stud a juke to the right and then went for the full lefty loosey and... the stud unscrewed! I gotta say I haven't had much luck with penetrating oil (in my experience it hasn't helped at all) but whatever did the trick I'm relieved. Thanks for helping Jeff and everyone else.
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