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  1. #1
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    how to remove suntour superbe front derailleur clamp

    This superbe front derailleur has one of the seperate clamps that attach to the derailleur by an allen head bolt in the face of the derailleur. The derailleur came off the clamp easily, but I can't figure out how to remove the clamp from the frame. It looks like there is a bolt stud slid through 2 ends of the clamp, and one end has to come over the bolt end to be removed. I don't see a way to do this without serious damage though.

    Does anyone know how to do this? I'll get pics up later tonight if needed.

    thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    post a picture

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    here's a pic. I forgot to mention there are little tabs on the top and bottom, and I have them pryed up already.

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  5. #5
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    Slide the spacer block out from behind the bolt, that should give you enough room to push the bolt back, and lift the outer end of the clamp past it.

    Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
    FB
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    I like the frame disassembly idea, but this is a Fuji Opus 3....so I don't think so

    There doesn't appear to be a spacer block. It looks like just the bolt. and the bolt won't move. there's a couple mm of space to move the bolt, but it just won't budge

  7. #7
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    So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
    FB
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
    wow how did I miss that? sure are threads. Thanks for the awesome eyes!

  9. #9
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    So, I just looked at my Spb Pro FD, but it's of a different design using a typical hinged clamp. But looking at the photo again, I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt. If there is, I suspect that it may not be a headed bolt, but a stud threaded into the block under the clamp. See if you can unscrew it.
    That is exactly correct. I miss old Suntour stuff. Sometimes they did this sort of extraordinarily complex stuff just to prove they could.
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  10. #10
    STFD mcgreivey's Avatar
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    I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.

    Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.

    If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.


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    Quote Originally Posted by mcgreivey View Post
    I wouldn't discard a SunTour derailleur unless I had a really good reason. Like, if it was broken, which doesn't happen too much.

    Turning your bike into a fixie isn't a good reason, but that's just me.

    If you're changing the crankset to something that won't work with this FD, then, well, I guess that's an OK, if unsatisfying, reason.

    that's nice for sure.

  12. #12
    cycles per second Gonzo Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    I see what might be Philips head slotting in the end of the bolt.
    You got it! I had an '84 Fuji with Suntour Cyclone with the same style clamp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Alternatively, you can disassemble the frame freeing either end of the seat tube and slide the clamp off the end.
    Someone is sure to take this suggestion seriously. I can't wait for their followup posting!

  14. #14
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Someone is sure to take this suggestion seriously. I can't wait for their followup posting!
    Yah.....I dunno why no one suggested to just cut the seat tube near the middle with a hacksaw, slide off the FD, jam a piece of broom handle in the tube then go riding......
    Oop's forgot about the Elmer's glue......

    Chombi

  15. #15
    Senior Member jethin's Avatar
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    OK, I'm reviving this old thread. I have what I assume is the same front derailler as the OP (pic).

    I'm thinking that the stud bolt should unscrew and that the "washer" on top of the clamp arms is actually part of the stud. I assume that once the stud is out the arms can be spread and the clamp removed, correct?

    But also, the stud is in there good and I'm afraid of stripping it. Suggestions? LBS (yet again)? I've already hit it with penetrating oil.
    Last edited by jethin; 11-25-14 at 09:46 AM.

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    Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
    '84 Trek 660 , '88 Trek 1500 ,'89 Trek 400 , '97 Trek 720 , '99 Trek 2200, '02 Trek 520

  17. #17
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranman View Post
    Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
    +1. Unscrew that stud and all will be revealed.

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  18. #18
    Senior Member jethin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranman View Post
    Looks like one of Suntour's continous band derailleurs, Cyclone series maybe? FBinNY was right (above). Unscrew the Phillips head on the end of the stud. Should be able to remove the left side of the clamp off the nut then. The washer is part of the stud and not a separate part.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wills View Post
    +1. Unscrew that stud and all will be revealed.
    OK great. But the stud's not budging and I'm afraid it's going to strip. Any other options for removing it? My guess is the best plan would be to: 1) go at it with the snuggest screwdriver fit I have and if it strips 2) somehow cut a notch into the stud for flathead removal. I don't have the tools for the latter so my LBS or some such would have to perform the operation. Thanks for your help.

  19. #19
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    Are you trying to save the FD, or simply remove it so you can mount another?

    If it's only a matter of removing it, you can grab the stud with vice grips and try to turn it. Or if that fails, carefully saw through the band on the left side - where it's away from the frame - with a saw or Dremel.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jethin View Post
    OK great. But the stud's not budging and I'm afraid it's going to strip. Any other options for removing it?
    Have you tried using a little penetrating oil to break it free? Apply a little PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight, then have a go with your best-fitting screwdriver.

  21. #21
    Senior Member jethin's Avatar
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    Yes, I've tried penetrating oil. It's hard to get it in there and has had no effect so far. I don't want to strip this thing because I suppose they're pretty hard to come by.

  22. #22
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jethin View Post
    Yes, I've tried penetrating oil. It's hard to get it in there and has had no effect so far. I don't want to strip this thing because I suppose they're pretty hard to come by.
    You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

    Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
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  23. #23
    Senior Member jethin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wills View Post
    You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

    Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
    Thanks Jeff, I'll do just that. Will focus on turkey, naps and oil soaking for the next couple of days and will update after the operation. Happy Thanksgiving!

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    It makes sense that that stud is super tight or else it would unscrew every time you removed the FD. Try leaving the bike outside. That little bit of shrinkage from getting cold might be enough to help break it free.
    A ride on a bike is not a walk in the park

  25. #25
    Senior Member jethin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wills View Post
    You're darn right. Perhaps Yellow Jersey has parts, but I'd try soaking it in penetrating oil first. And I mean really soak it. I would lay the frame on its side with the mounting stud facing down. Then use a couple layers of aluminum foil to mold a bowl around the stud, taped or zip-tied to the downtube. Basically, you want a container that will allow you to completely immerse both sides of that stud. Fill with your favorite penetrating oil and let sit a night or two. When you feel brave enough, remove the bowl, grip the "nut" with pliers or a Crescent wrench, and give the screw a twist. If it doesn't go one way, twist it the other- often all you need is break the corrosion up to get it going.

    Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!
    Welp, I gave it a good soak, got out my best screwdriver and lined it up just so, gave the stud a juke to the right and then went for the full lefty loosey and... the stud unscrewed! I gotta say I haven't had much luck with penetrating oil (in my experience it hasn't helped at all) but whatever did the trick I'm relieved. Thanks for helping Jeff and everyone else.

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