Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-12-10, 07:43 AM   #1
MarkN
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: UK
Bikes: Rebuilt Litespeed Vortex, Vintage racing bike fixed gear conversion, Dawes 601 Hybrid (2001)
Posts: 92
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Old frame for a fixie; what am I looking at here?

So, here we are then, fresh from the dump;

raleigh..jpg

Says Raleigh on the badge, 57114 CG. embossed on the seat post.
52cm from the centre of the BB to the centre of the top tube intersection (54cm to the seat post)
85mm front / 110mm rear OLD
22mm stem
25mm seat post (stuck)

Rusty, but no obvious structural issues (at least to my untrained eye).
Head tube/steerer kinda stiff to turn. Repack the bearings?
Bottom bracket spins freely but sounds a bit rough.
It does weigh a bit...

My only previous experience is general maintenance over 10 years on my Aluminium framed Dawes 601 Hybrid; no experience with either vintage frames or fixies.

Are the necessary parts readily available?
Is this a reasonable frame to build on or should I keep looking?
I want bullhorn handlebars. Is that possible with a 22mm stem?
Can I fix the stiff steerer by repacking/replacing the bearings?
Given that I'll need new pedals, I imagine I'll also need a new crank and BB?
Any recommendations for fixie parts would be welcome am I looking for track parts here or what? I need the language to get in on this conversation

Cheers!
MarkN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 07:57 AM   #2
RB1-luvr
I don't know.
 
RB1-luvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Meriden, CT
Bikes: '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
Posts: 1,034
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
it's gonna look kinda long, especially with the rake of that fork, but I would totally build that bike as a ss. good find.
RB1-luvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 08:47 AM   #3
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,776
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
A Raleigh that old will probably have Raleigh's proprietary bottom bracket and steerer threading so be sure the headset is usable after it's overhauled and upgrading the bottom bracket may be difficult. Phil Wood ($$$$$) does make bottom brackets to fit these Raleighs. It has a cottered crank so you will have to change the spindle at least to use a more modern crank.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 08:54 AM   #4
MarkN
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: UK
Bikes: Rebuilt Litespeed Vortex, Vintage racing bike fixed gear conversion, Dawes 601 Hybrid (2001)
Posts: 92
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Cheers, HillRider. I honestly have no idea what you just said, but I'll do some homework on sheldonbrown.com

RB1-luvr - Righto!
MarkN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 09:00 AM   #5
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,776
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkN View Post
Cheers, HillRider. I honestly have no idea what you just said, but I'll do some homework on sheldonbrown.com

RB1-luvr - Righto!
OK, maybe I can clarify. Most modern bikes have 1.37"x 24 thread per inch threads and a 68 mm wide shell for their bottom brackets , known as English threading. Raleigh used the same 1.37" diameter but 26 threads per inch and a 71 mm shell width. Close but no cigar as they won't interchange and the Raleigh threading is long obsolete.

Here is a recent thread on this Forum discussing the options to "modernize" an older Raleigh.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...pi-BB-question

If none of this makes sense to you, I think you are in over your head trying to build up this frame.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 09:30 AM   #6
MarkN
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: UK
Bikes: Rebuilt Litespeed Vortex, Vintage racing bike fixed gear conversion, Dawes 601 Hybrid (2001)
Posts: 92
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Aah, I do see. It makes some sense, and I'm not afraid to do some homework and tinkering. However, you could well be right about being over my head due to lack of actual experience and familiarity with with the terms. I need some kind of overview on all the required parts in case some are simply too hard to find or impractically expensive to replace.

Thanks, HillRider
MarkN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 09:34 AM   #7
kingsting
Bicycle Repairman
 
kingsting's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Land of Three Mile Island
Bikes: Many
Posts: 598
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Looks like a Raleigh Sports three-speed frame.
kingsting is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 09:35 AM   #8
peripatetic
Senior Member
 
peripatetic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Bikes: All 70s and 80s, only steel.
Posts: 2,124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
A bike shop can just re-tap the threads for a modern bb. I had an LBS do that when they put in a cartridge bb, and I only had to pay for the bb and the normal installation charge (I think it was about $40 at NYC rates).

The stuck seatpost could be a big issue--before you get to re-packing bearings and building this thing up fully, get the thing unstuck, or at the least, make sure the seat will be at a (stuck) height where it's usable. Check if the post is steel or aluminum using a magnet. From the photo, it looks pretty sure it's steel. If the seatpost is steel, then it should come out after you add oil and let it soak. First thing, though, get a saddle on there, so if you do break the rust inside, it doesn't slide down into the frame. Soak the seam w/ Kroil or some other penetrating oil (Kroil's the best I've used) a bunch and tap the frame as you pour it around the seam. If it doesn't come out immediately, keep soaking and letting it sit, even overnight. Get some good leverage however you can. Sheldon Brown (of course) has some description of dealing with this on his website, also.

Oh, and yeah, this will be fine for building up as a fixie/singlespeed. I've used old Raleigh frames for such projects many times. One issue you might have is brake clearance and wheels--using 27" wheels will be easier, but they're harder to find for fixed gear use. EDIT: Disregard this part. Looks like Gran Bois has a better eye on this one.

Last edited by peripatetic; 11-12-10 at 02:17 PM.
peripatetic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 09:59 AM   #9
Grand Bois
Senior Member
 
Grand Bois's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Bikes:
Posts: 16,545
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
That frame was built for 26" wheels. It's heavy because it's all high tensile steel. I'd look for something more suitable.
Grand Bois is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 10:08 AM   #10
bradtx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Posts: 6,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
MarkN, You'll learn a lot doing this build up, a perfect learning piece. The stuck seatpost is the major issue at the moment. As adapters for mounting a saddle onto that style post are far and few in between plan on a replacement. I clamped a pair of vice grips (locking jaw pliers) onto my Raleigh's stuck seat post to prevent it from falling into the seat tube and for some twisting leverage and with the pinch bolt loosened gave it a mighty whack with a three foot long hardwood 2X4. It broke loose, but not everybody is as lucky as I was.

As long as the bearing races clean up without any pits, new bearings can be used in both the headset and bottom bracket. That crankset cleaned up and polished will look great on a FG/SS, IMHO. The wheelset will likely be the major expense and I think I'd go with 27".

Refinishing the frame can go from rattlecan to media blasting and powder coating, your taste and budget.

Brad

PS GB posted while I was typing, 27" wheels might not fit. 650s will tho'.
bradtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 10:13 AM   #11
RB1-luvr
I don't know.
 
RB1-luvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Meriden, CT
Bikes: '90 Bridgestone RB-1 , '89 SuperGo Access Comp, 2009 Access, 2010 Windsor Touring, 2014 Ritchey Road Logic, 2009 Kestrel Evoke SRAM Rival, 2003 Trek OCLV USPS livery, 1936 Westfield Seminole, 1946 Monark, '47 Western Flyer
Posts: 1,034
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
coaster brake 700c wheel set would be sweet...
RB1-luvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-10, 07:10 PM   #12
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Posts: 16,355
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
The positioning of the rear dropout eyelets behind and below the slot means the frame almost certainly uses Raleigh's proprietary threading. Besides the 1-3/8" x 26tpi bottom bracket shell thread mentioned above, the steer tube is likely to be 1" x26tpi (vs standard 1" x 24tpi). If for some reason you need to replace the headset, you will likely need to replace the fork as well since 1" x 26tpi parts are not always readily available.

The good news is that it appears to have all the important threaded pieces. Just clean up the old parts and use them in your project. If you want to use a more modern square taper crank, you can keep the original cups and just use a square taper spindle with them. Although it was designed for 26" wheels, 700C wheels will fit in your frame.
JohnDThompson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:16 PM.