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  1. #1
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    Old frame for a fixie; what am I looking at here?

    So, here we are then, fresh from the dump;

    raleigh..jpg

    Says Raleigh on the badge, 57114 CG. embossed on the seat post.
    52cm from the centre of the BB to the centre of the top tube intersection (54cm to the seat post)
    85mm front / 110mm rear OLD
    22mm stem
    25mm seat post (stuck)

    Rusty, but no obvious structural issues (at least to my untrained eye).
    Head tube/steerer kinda stiff to turn. Repack the bearings?
    Bottom bracket spins freely but sounds a bit rough.
    It does weigh a bit...

    My only previous experience is general maintenance over 10 years on my Aluminium framed Dawes 601 Hybrid; no experience with either vintage frames or fixies.

    Are the necessary parts readily available?
    Is this a reasonable frame to build on or should I keep looking?
    I want bullhorn handlebars. Is that possible with a 22mm stem?
    Can I fix the stiff steerer by repacking/replacing the bearings?
    Given that I'll need new pedals, I imagine I'll also need a new crank and BB?
    Any recommendations for fixie parts would be welcome am I looking for track parts here or what? I need the language to get in on this conversation

    Cheers!

  2. #2
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
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    it's gonna look kinda long, especially with the rake of that fork, but I would totally build that bike as a ss. good find.
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  3. #3
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    A Raleigh that old will probably have Raleigh's proprietary bottom bracket and steerer threading so be sure the headset is usable after it's overhauled and upgrading the bottom bracket may be difficult. Phil Wood ($$$$$) does make bottom brackets to fit these Raleighs. It has a cottered crank so you will have to change the spindle at least to use a more modern crank.

  4. #4
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    Cheers, HillRider. I honestly have no idea what you just said, but I'll do some homework on sheldonbrown.com

    RB1-luvr - Righto!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkN View Post
    Cheers, HillRider. I honestly have no idea what you just said, but I'll do some homework on sheldonbrown.com

    RB1-luvr - Righto!
    OK, maybe I can clarify. Most modern bikes have 1.37"x 24 thread per inch threads and a 68 mm wide shell for their bottom brackets , known as English threading. Raleigh used the same 1.37" diameter but 26 threads per inch and a 71 mm shell width. Close but no cigar as they won't interchange and the Raleigh threading is long obsolete.

    Here is a recent thread on this Forum discussing the options to "modernize" an older Raleigh.

    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...pi-BB-question

    If none of this makes sense to you, I think you are in over your head trying to build up this frame.

  6. #6
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    Aah, I do see. It makes some sense, and I'm not afraid to do some homework and tinkering. However, you could well be right about being over my head due to lack of actual experience and familiarity with with the terms. I need some kind of overview on all the required parts in case some are simply too hard to find or impractically expensive to replace.

    Thanks, HillRider

  7. #7
    Bicycle Repairman kingsting's Avatar
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    Looks like a Raleigh Sports three-speed frame.
    There's always room for one more bike!

  8. #8
    Senior Member peripatetic's Avatar
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    A bike shop can just re-tap the threads for a modern bb. I had an LBS do that when they put in a cartridge bb, and I only had to pay for the bb and the normal installation charge (I think it was about $40 at NYC rates).

    The stuck seatpost could be a big issue--before you get to re-packing bearings and building this thing up fully, get the thing unstuck, or at the least, make sure the seat will be at a (stuck) height where it's usable. Check if the post is steel or aluminum using a magnet. From the photo, it looks pretty sure it's steel. If the seatpost is steel, then it should come out after you add oil and let it soak. First thing, though, get a saddle on there, so if you do break the rust inside, it doesn't slide down into the frame. Soak the seam w/ Kroil or some other penetrating oil (Kroil's the best I've used) a bunch and tap the frame as you pour it around the seam. If it doesn't come out immediately, keep soaking and letting it sit, even overnight. Get some good leverage however you can. Sheldon Brown (of course) has some description of dealing with this on his website, also.

    Oh, and yeah, this will be fine for building up as a fixie/singlespeed. I've used old Raleigh frames for such projects many times. One issue you might have is brake clearance and wheels--using 27" wheels will be easier, but they're harder to find for fixed gear use. EDIT: Disregard this part. Looks like Gran Bois has a better eye on this one.
    Last edited by peripatetic; 11-12-10 at 01:17 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    That frame was built for 26" wheels. It's heavy because it's all high tensile steel. I'd look for something more suitable.

  10. #10
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    MarkN, You'll learn a lot doing this build up, a perfect learning piece. The stuck seatpost is the major issue at the moment. As adapters for mounting a saddle onto that style post are far and few in between plan on a replacement. I clamped a pair of vice grips (locking jaw pliers) onto my Raleigh's stuck seat post to prevent it from falling into the seat tube and for some twisting leverage and with the pinch bolt loosened gave it a mighty whack with a three foot long hardwood 2X4. It broke loose, but not everybody is as lucky as I was.

    As long as the bearing races clean up without any pits, new bearings can be used in both the headset and bottom bracket. That crankset cleaned up and polished will look great on a FG/SS, IMHO. The wheelset will likely be the major expense and I think I'd go with 27".

    Refinishing the frame can go from rattlecan to media blasting and powder coating, your taste and budget.

    Brad

    PS GB posted while I was typing, 27" wheels might not fit. 650s will tho'.

  11. #11
    I don't know. RB1-luvr's Avatar
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    coaster brake 700c wheel set would be sweet...
    Rast ich so rost ich. (When I rest, I rust)

  12. #12
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    The positioning of the rear dropout eyelets behind and below the slot means the frame almost certainly uses Raleigh's proprietary threading. Besides the 1-3/8" x 26tpi bottom bracket shell thread mentioned above, the steer tube is likely to be 1" x26tpi (vs standard 1" x 24tpi). If for some reason you need to replace the headset, you will likely need to replace the fork as well since 1" x 26tpi parts are not always readily available.

    The good news is that it appears to have all the important threaded pieces. Just clean up the old parts and use them in your project. If you want to use a more modern square taper crank, you can keep the original cups and just use a square taper spindle with them. Although it was designed for 26" wheels, 700C wheels will fit in your frame.

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