Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-15-10, 09:23 AM   #1
deepakvrao
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
deepakvrao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bangalore India
Bikes:
Posts: 1,754
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Brifter dead?

Hi guys,

This morning I found it not so easy to get the chain onto the big chainring, though the brifter was moving the FD. Thought it was an adjustment issue, but now at home I see that the left brifter is not 'clicking' at all [it was clicking during the ride though]. It moves the FD but when I release it, the FD just springs back to the original position.

Any ideas?
deepakvrao is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-10, 09:37 AM   #2
cyclist2000
Senior Member
 
cyclist2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Up
Bikes: Masi (retired), Giant TCR, Eisentraut, Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo (trainer bike), Cannondale, 84 Stumpjumper, Waterford(N+1), Tern D8 (N+1), looking for a Ti frame
Posts: 3,033
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What brand and model?
cyclist2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-10, 09:44 AM   #3
deepakvrao
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
deepakvrao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bangalore India
Bikes:
Posts: 1,754
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Shimano 105. I think it's the 5600.
deepakvrao is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-10, 10:32 AM   #4
peripatetic
Senior Member
 
peripatetic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Bikes: All 70s and 80s, only steel.
Posts: 2,124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
They're not made to be serviceable, though there is a link somewhere online with a guy who did it to his. At the shop I used to work at, the head mechanic showed me how he serviced STI's, and it worked fairly well, but took time; He'd flush everywhere around the lever mechanism internals he could get using WD-40. Then he'd let it sit for a while, come back, flush some more, and start working the lever, over and over. It could take him a few hours, but eventually, he'd get the gunk and springs to loosen up enough, and they'd start working again. I think if you're going to do this, the problem is that the WD-40 is mainly solvent, and after that all evaporates, the internals don't have much grease left inside. Probably good to follow a day later with a dollop or two of thicker oil, like Phil Wood's, that will leave a coat on the little pawls and gears inside the lever. That's assuming you eventually get the thing working again.


PS Here's that link: Read through everything carefully before attempting the actual work. http://norvil.net/pedal/service/shimanosti/index.php
peripatetic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-10, 11:35 AM   #5
Al1943
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Posts: 9,433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Try shooting the shifters full of WD 40. This has restored shifting performance to many shifters.
Al1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-10, 01:52 PM   #6
Kimmo
bike whisperer
 
Kimmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
Posts: 7,099
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by peripatetic View Post
They're not made to be serviceable, though there is a link somewhere online with a guy who did it to his.
You mean this thread, or has someone posted a guide for these later ones?
Kimmo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-10, 06:46 AM   #7
deepakvrao
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
deepakvrao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bangalore India
Bikes:
Posts: 1,754
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Disconnected the cable and the shifter clicks and does move the end of the cable into different positions inside the brifter [just like on wifey working brifter], but when the cable is connected, the shifter is not able to maintain the cable pull against the spring load of the FD.

Doused with WD 40 but this does not seem to be a problem of something jammed but rather something NOT ratcheting strongly enough. Dunno if the explanation is clear enough.
deepakvrao is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-10, 08:56 AM   #8
Fred Smedley
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 1,706
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by deepakvrao View Post
Disconnected the cable and the shifter clicks and does move the end of the cable into different positions inside the brifter [just like on wifey working brifter], but when the cable is connected, the shifter is not able to maintain the cable pull against the spring load of the FD.

Doused with WD 40 but this does not seem to be a problem of something jammed but rather something NOT ratcheting strongly enough. Dunno if the explanation is clear enough.
Sounds like you are still gummed up. If you can source a Barnett's manual they have good instructions on how partially disassemble, clean and lube shimano brifters. A compressor helps immensely.
Fred Smedley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-10, 09:41 AM   #9
peripatetic
Senior Member
 
peripatetic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Bikes: All 70s and 80s, only steel.
Posts: 2,124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Smedley View Post
Sounds like you are still gummed up. If you can source a Barnett's manual they have good instructions on how partially disassemble, clean and lube shimano brifters. A compressor helps immensely.
OP, did you see the link I posted at the end of my post? It's got images and a pretty detailed explanation of disassembly. Before going that route, though, I suggest you continue flushing and working the levers. When they go "bad," it really is a matter of getting the old gunk and grease out of there, all of which is interfering with the gears and ratcheting pawls, as you describe. It's not usually a problem of an internal part breaking or becoming compromised. And let things soak, as well, in between clicking and pressing repeatedly on the levers.
peripatetic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-10, 09:43 AM   #10
MilitantPotato
Subjectively Insane
 
MilitantPotato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Saint Louis, Missouri
Bikes: '09 Rodriguez Adventurer Custom, '08 Trek 7.3Fx
Posts: 802
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Any chance your outer limit screw is set too tight? If the cable is pulled too taught before the FD is in the correct position the lever won't be able to move far enough to reach it's indexing spot. The cable may of also shifted from it's original position somewhere along the line, and caused excess tension. Make sure everything is seated and routed properly.

There's also a chance the cable adjustment is off for the FD, but that'd normally cause it to either click to the large ring spot, but remain in the lower/middle chainring, or fail to drop to the inner chainring.

If this ends up being the issue, that WD-40 bit was a bad move, since it's kerosene, and has removed a lot of the lubrication from your brifters.

Last edited by MilitantPotato; 11-16-10 at 09:46 AM.
MilitantPotato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-10, 09:55 AM   #11
San Rensho 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 5,547
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Brake cleaner works very well to clean the internals, but take off the hoods which may get dissolved by the solvent.
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
San Rensho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-10, 10:09 AM   #12
bradtx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Posts: 6,623
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Kimmo, I wish I'd found your thread when I serviced my 600's STIs! As it turns out our methods are very similar. Unfortunately I broke a pawl later on, which may've been my fault during reassembly.

Brad
bradtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-10, 06:18 PM   #13
deepakvrao
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
deepakvrao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bangalore India
Bikes:
Posts: 1,754
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by peripatetic View Post
OP, did you see the link I posted at the end of my post? It's got images and a pretty detailed explanation of disassembly. Before going that route, though, I suggest you continue flushing and working the levers. When they go "bad," it really is a matter of getting the old gunk and grease out of there, all of which is interfering with the gears and ratcheting pawls, as you describe. It's not usually a problem of an internal part breaking or becoming compromised. And let things soak, as well, in between clicking and pressing repeatedly on the levers.

Hey, missed that. Will try it but its less than 2 years. Had no idea that Shimano had 2 year warranty. Will try to contact Shimano first - Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MilitantPotato View Post
Any chance your outer limit screw is set too tight? If the cable is pulled too taught before the FD is in the correct position the lever won't be able to move far enough to reach it's indexing spot. The cable may of also shifted from it's original position somewhere along the line, and caused excess tension. Make sure everything is seated and routed properly.

There's also a chance the cable adjustment is off for the FD, but that'd normally cause it to either click to the large ring spot, but remain in the lower/middle chainring, or fail to drop to the inner chainring.

If this ends up being the issue, that WD-40 bit was a bad move, since it's kerosene, and has removed a lot of the lubrication from your brifters.
Have loosened the cable and tried but will try again.

Living in India, its really tough to source these things.
deepakvrao is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-10, 01:52 AM   #14
mr.smith.pdx
Senior Member
 
mr.smith.pdx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Bikes: 2005 Fuji Cross Pro, 2006 Allez Sport, Mid 70's French Bike named 'Pierre'
Posts: 214
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Did you replace your cables and housings with new ones? My CX shifter was crapping out on me and I figured with all the mud and crashing I had simply worn it out. I replaced it with another shifter out of the parts drawer and put on new housings and cables. I cleaned up the removed shifter, everything clicked just fine. Now, a season later, and the other replacement shifter I put on is having trouble. (The downshift/brake lever moves with the smaller lever, I have to hold it with 2 fingers and upshift with my ring finger...sucks in a race...good thing I am already slow)

Note: According to the WD-40 people, there is no Kerosene in WD-40.
mr.smith.pdx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-10, 12:29 PM   #15
kingsting
Bicycle Repairman
 
kingsting's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Land of Three Mile Island
Bikes: Many
Posts: 598
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I've had better luck using silicone spray instead of WD-40. It seems to free up sticky shifters a little quicker and they stay free longer. The ones I've blasted with WD got sticky again after a while.
kingsting is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-10, 10:24 PM   #16
peripatetic
Senior Member
 
peripatetic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Bikes: All 70s and 80s, only steel.
Posts: 2,124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If you're still under Shimano's warranty, you should definitely go through them first--hopefully, they'll just replace the unit at no cost (or for shipping only).
peripatetic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-10, 04:31 AM   #17
deepakvrao
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
deepakvrao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bangalore India
Bikes:
Posts: 1,754
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Ordered Ultegra shifters and spoke to Shimano. Have to send the shifter back to the US. Cost is likely half the cost of the shifter unless I send it by regular post. Shimano wants it wit a trackng number and that is not worth it at all. lemme see what I can do.
deepakvrao is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:47 AM.