Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-02-10, 04:40 PM   #1
ahson
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Toronto, Canada
Bikes:
Posts: 652
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Rear wheel not straight after brake applied?

The rear wheel was perfectly straight but as soon as I applied brake pressure at the back (in an actual riding situtation), the rear wheel got side way and actually scrubbed the inside of the chain stay. At first I thought I didn't tighten up the QR enough but that wasn't the issue. I tried to release the wheel, put it all the way back in, tighten up the QR and ride again but the problem comes back as soon as I hit the rear brake in an riding situation.

If I hit the rear brake when the bike is parked, the rear wheel will not be side way at all.


Thoughts?
ahson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 04:49 PM   #2
cny-bikeman 
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Would have more bikes if I had time to ride them all. Previous bikes: 1968 Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fav), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Posts: 6,235
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
No way to tell over Internet if you are tightening correctly, so here's full explanation with images: http://www.bicyclinglife.com/howto/UseAQuickRelease.htm

This one is specific to slippage, easier than writing it out all over again - http://www.cyclingforums.com/forum/t...ng-rear-skewer
cny-bikeman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 05:28 PM   #3
allroy71
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fullerton
Bikes: KHS 29er SS, Ventana El Toro, Surly CrossCheck, Kona Stinky(retired), Dahon Speed D7,
Posts: 312
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
It probably is the QR that's not tight enough. Do you have horizontal drop outs?
I could pull my wheel if I torqued hard on the cranks, until I got a different skewer. I am not sure why your wheel would only move during braking. Can you crank hard enough to throw the wheel?
allroy71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 08:51 PM   #4
BCRider
Senior Member
 
BCRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
Posts: 5,456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Start by checking that the axle on each side is flush or below the outer face of the dropout. If it's not then you aren't tightening the proper stuff.
BCRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 09:13 PM   #5
Al1943
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Posts: 9,433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
Start by checking that the axle on each side is flush or below the outer face of the dropout. If it's not then you aren't tightening the proper stuff.
This is what I'm wondering. If dropouts are horizontal the ends of the axle needs to be within the dropout plates. If not the skewer or axle nuts cannot tighten against the dropout plate.
Al1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 09:24 PM   #6
mrrabbit 
Senior Member
 
mrrabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Posts: 3,190
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
1. Check rear dropout alignment they should be parallel. Tools have a T-Handle appearance.
2. With horizontal dropouts, it's best to use steel quick releases...i.e., alloy quick release aren't really meant for horizontal dropouts. Check for quality serrations on the nut faces of both ends.

3. QR lever should start to sieze at the "pointing outward direction" and you should feel a little "ouch" in the palm once you have finished closing the lever a full 90 degrees.

=8-)
__________________
4000+ wheels built since 1984...

Disclaimer:

1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:

Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
mrrabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 10:01 PM   #7
Homebrew01
Senior Member
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Posts: 19,558
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
This may seem like an obvious question to many, but, are you operating the Quick Release properly ? Some people mistakenly spin it tight as if it were a large nut. It is a cam and "flips" open and closed.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike
Homebrew01 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 10:03 PM   #8
ahson
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Toronto, Canada
Bikes:
Posts: 652
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I know I tighten the QR properly and in a correct way (not tighten it as a nut, not spin it tight). However I will have to double check the axle like you all mentioned.
ahson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 10:07 PM   #9
Homebrew01
Senior Member
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Posts: 19,558
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
What kind of brakes do you have ? Normally wheel slippage happens when stomping hard on the pedals, noit from braking, but maybe disk brakes could cause it ?
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike
Homebrew01 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-10, 10:13 PM   #10
ahson
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Toronto, Canada
Bikes:
Posts: 652
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Okay I just try to reproduce the issue when the bike is parked. I push the wheel sideway and the QR/wheel slipped. Now I am sure it has nothing to do w/ the brake, but just the brake make the slippage happens sooner.

It gotta be the QR now. I kinda looked at the QR, it seems normal? Will check again
ahson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-10, 09:45 AM   #11
Homebrew01
Senior Member
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Posts: 19,558
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Maybe you are just not tightening it enough.
The outer axle nut often has serrations to improve grip against the frame. Same with the inside of the QR head. You could try a different qr lever and see if it has better grip.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike
Homebrew01 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-10, 10:00 AM   #12
allroy71
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fullerton
Bikes: KHS 29er SS, Ventana El Toro, Surly CrossCheck, Kona Stinky(retired), Dahon Speed D7,
Posts: 312
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Looks like you are going to need an old steel skewer, which can be tightened down good. You are going to want the enclosed cam.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

Or this style, which costs a bit more. You can really crank these down.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2011-dt-swiss-rws-quick-release-skewers-4026.406.0.html
allroy71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-10, 11:02 AM   #13
LarDasse74
Guest
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
Posts: 3,769
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Have you had the bearings apart on the wheel lately? Or done any work involving removing or changing axle nuts or washers or cones? Because what you are describing (quick release seems tight but does not hold the wheel in place) can be caused by having too much axle sticking out past the axle locknut and not allowing the QR to clamp on the dropout.

If this is the case you must either shorten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.

Last edited by LarDasse74; 12-03-10 at 11:34 AM. Reason: holy **** I can't spell
LarDasse74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-10, 11:23 AM   #14
Thumpic 
Senior Member
 
Thumpic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Sunny South
Bikes:
Posts: 1,850
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarDasse74 View Post
Have you had the bearins apart ont he wheel lately? Or done any work involving removing or changing axle nuts or washers or coned? Because what you are describing (quick release seems tight but does not old the wheel in place) can be cause by having too much axle sticking out pat the axle locknut and not allowing the QR to clamp on the dropout.

If this is the case you must either shirten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
ditto! I had this very issue in the past. The QR will tighten up very firmly (pain in the palm included) and the wheel slips. The QR is not tightening on the drop outs, but on the ends of the axle.

I'm guessing someone rebuilt the hub and removed BOTH cone nuts. If you leave one on the axle it acts as a reference point to locate all of the other components in their original location. Or if you a replacing a broken axle or worn out cones you have to align everything again and match the axle length with your replacement.
__________________
Thumpic....

Green is the new "CHEAP"
Thumpic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-10, 01:13 PM   #15
cyclist2000
Senior Member
 
cyclist2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Up
Bikes: Masi (retired), Giant TCR, Eisentraut, Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo (trainer bike), Cannondale, 84 Stumpjumper, Waterford(N+1), Tern D8 (N+1), looking for a Ti frame
Posts: 3,025
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarDasse74 View Post
Have you had the bearins apart ont he wheel lately? Or done any work involving removing or changing axle nuts or washers or coned? Because what you are describing (quick release seems tight but does not old the wheel in place) can be cause by having too much axle sticking out pat the axle locknut and not allowing the QR to clamp on the dropout.

If this is the case you must either shirten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
+1 This certainly could be a possibility since the wheel is going cockeyed. Is it always rubbing on the same side?
its probably not the braking that is causing the problem, but the torque applied when starting from a stop, pulls the drive side forward.
cyclist2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:46 AM.