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  1. #1
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    Stripped Crank Thread

    Hey guys. I just stripped the left crank thread on my Mercier Kilo TT. It's a Truvativ Touro crankset and I'm looking to buy just a left crank arm rather than replacing the whole crankset.
    What should I know about compatibility with the bottom bracket etc?
    Is there a reason (other than long term durability) not to go with a cheap arm from the interenet (i.e. http://directbicycleparts.com/produc...r2125-qc53.htm)
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Chris_in_Miami's Avatar
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    Pedal threads or dustcap/puller threads? If it's the former, you can have a heli-coil insert installed and you won't need to worry about compatibility.

  3. #3
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    They were the pedal threads.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_in_Miami View Post
    Pedal threads or dustcap/puller threads? If it's the former, you can have a heli-coil insert installed and you won't need to worry about compatibility.
    +1 : http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...x?SSAID=418273 The whole kit is spendy, but most bike shops will install one for you for a reasonable amount

    Dave
    Dave Anderson
    Anderson Custom Bicycles
    www.andersoncustombicycles.com

  5. #5
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    is the length correct? the crank in the link is only 165mm. what size is the crank on your bike?

    if you shop does it go for the helicoil, then cut down on the one pedal mounts and dismounts
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  6. #6
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    The stripped thread is on the crank arm, where the pedal screws in. I really don't think buying a kit makes more sense than just replacing the crank arm.
    The one currently on my bike is a 165 mm. That's why I linked to it.
    Essentially my question is am I going to have any compatibility issues if I go ahead and buy that crank arm?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synchronize View Post
    Essentially my question is am I going to have any compatibility issues if I go ahead and buy that crank arm?
    No, it should work, assuming the original mounts on a JIS square taper BB, which I think it does. The only potential issue would be a possible change in width...ie, the new arm may locate the pedal farther away from, or closer to the center of the bottom bracket, etc. Although, if so, I would guess that its not significant.
    Dave Anderson
    Anderson Custom Bicycles
    www.andersoncustombicycles.com

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    ....if you shop does it go for the helicoil, then cut down on the one pedal mounts and dismounts
    Will somebody please get a shotgun and put this old canard to rest?

    The stress of one foot mounts/dismounts is no higher than that of standing when climbing a steep hill. This is well with the range of acceptable load, and less than when 250# riders stand and pedal, and has no effect on pedal thread issues.
    FB
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  9. #9
    Senior Member john hawrylak's Avatar
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    Synchronize, thanks for posting this. I had same question and was glad to find the heli-coil repair option
    John Hawrylak
    Woodstown NJ

    1975 Schwinn Voyageur II
    1988 Schwinn Voyageur

  10. #10
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Many Bike shops have the tools , a double threaded sleeve, of steel

    will be stronger than the original aluminum

    which was not strong enough for someone who rode too long on a loose pedal.

  11. #11
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    I got a pile of left crank arms, all square taper. Much easier and cheaper then going the helicoil route. Next time, remember the pedal threads are backwards on the left side.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

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