robo

I'm posting this here because it's a mechanical question, really, and I'm not sure where else to put it.

For years I used the original M737 SPDs on my mountain bike, for both on and off road riding. They were excellent. Very reliable, and easy to clip into.

About two years ago, they were just falling apart, and I bought a pair of Cr-Mo Eggbeaters. I loved the simplicity of the Eggbeater design, and was told that they worked great.

But they don't, at least for me. They are just hard to clip into. I find myself hunting around, and have crashed on the trail due to not being able to get clipped in before a steep drop, and have struggled at traffic lights in the city trying to get clipped in and moving before the cars take over (i use them on both my MTB and commuter/touring bike).

Anyway, is this just a tradeoff for the extremely simple and mud shedding design, or would the more expensive stainless steel eggbeaters be better?

I'm close to going back to Shimano, but the new Shimano pedals look a lot different from the old ones and I'm wondering if they will be as good in terms of super smooth engagement with the cleat...

thanks,

robo

MudPie

I can't comment on the Eggbeaters, although I like the minimalist design. I've been using Shimano 520's for over five years, https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...520+Pedal.aspx. They have adjustable tension release, good mud clearing capability, easy entry/exit and costs ~$35. Maybe not the lightest, but they've served and continue to serve me well.

Torchy McFlux

I have Time mtb pedals which use a similar heavy spring retention system. I find them a bit tougher than the M747 pedals to get into - it's the fighting against the heavy spring tension that causes that. And M747s are harder to get into than the M737s. I very much like the float and the way the Times don't clog with mud though, so I'm sticking with them.
The M737 pedals are like the old XT thumbshifters - they work better than anything else out there, and Shimano doesn't make them anymore. Because they had dual retention mechs per side, they were smooth and easy to clip into. However, because of this they were complicated and a little heavy with many small parts, so Shimano decided to expand on the cheaper and less complicated 535 pedal design instead.
The thing about M737s is that the screws on them tend to loosen off on their own. Unscrew, clean, and re-Loctite the bolts every once in awhile and they'll last a lifetime.

cityslicker

I've been using eggbeaters on my fixie commuters for a few years now, love them, and haven't had any problems clipping in. Is it possible that you don't have enough clearance between the cleats and your shoes? Are you using the shims that crank bros includes with the cleats? If not, try that first and see if it makes a difference for your clip-in ease.

capwater

I just switched to eggbeaters this past fall for cyclocross after years of spds (cross and mtb). They are superb. Since cross involves a bunch of on and off moves, the four sided entry is far superior to the traditional two sided style.

cascade168

Yup, I just got some Mallets and they were very tough to clip into on the first go-round and then I installed one shim and that completely corrected the problem. I have always been an SPD man, but I am really liking the Mallets for MTB. Very easy to clip in and out, now that I installed the shims.

anti.team

+1. I would check that out for sure. I had to cut quite a bit out of my shoes for the eggbeaters. A friend had the same trouble you are describing (after 1 ride) and we checked for interference. Sure enough, his shoe was interfering. He put the shim on, and it was much better!

I just started using eggbeaters after a few years on SPDs, and they are way easier to clip in and out.

gregam

Had to use both shimms with my Mallet's. I am into my second season, and am very pleased with them.

smd3

I LOVE my eggbeaters! I use the Candy C's on my single speed commuter, the Eggbeater C's on my FS XC bike, the Eggbeater 2TI's on my Niner, and I just put the Quattro SL's on my Casseroll. I have no issues with any of them, except the Quattro's. I have to hunt a bit more, I think it's because the cleat is recessed in a plastic part (on the shoe).

I accidentally put the wrong cleat on the wrong shoe, and it was a pain to unclip, but once I fixed that it was all butter!

I've only had one or two accidental releases on my regular Eggbeaters, when I slammed the pedal on a rock.

Getting in to my Eggbeaters has always been great, unlike the shimano's I switched from. Those things would gum up with mud in no time!

And, as for the Quattro's, I think there's plenty of better road pedals out there, but I wanted to be able to use the shoes and cleats I already had, if I want to.

Deanster04

My story is the same. I switched over to Crank Bros C-Candy for all my bikes except for one commuter where I am using the Quattros. I have a pair of SIDI road shoes that I have had for 8 years that I use with the Quattros...I have a pair of SIDI MTB shoes that I am using for the Candy pedals. I seem to have to hunt a little with the Quattros but once clipped in I have no problems.
Maybe the person with the eggbeaters who is having the problems has the wrong release angle in the setup of the cleats on the shoes???? Any how I love the Crank brother pedals and how easy they are to service.

dobber

I'll have to echo that sentiment. I've been using Beaters, Candies and Mallets for 4+ years, the only problem I've ever had was too thick a sole interfering with my ability to clip in, although I could usually mash em in.

I think the original beaters had more of a technique to them, almost requiring a rolling motion to achieve capture. I found the platform style much easier to use.

robo

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to check my shoes again for clearance. I don't think i used the shims, as i didn't want the cleats sticking out so much, but maybe i should have.

But this also reminded me.. are Eggbeater cleats still made of that really soft metal? Mine look all twisted up as if the metal of the cleat is just too soft.

robo

OK - haven't tried the shims yet, but cut a bunch of rubber away from the sides around the cleats with a utility knife. Will see if that helps.

smd3

The cleats are much softer than an SPD cleat, they shouldn't look mangled though.

The shim will probably help a bunch, I don't think it'd be clearance around the cleat if they are the same shoes used for your SPD.

Good luck!

cityslicker

They shouldn't look mangled (unless you're walking on gravel a lot), but crank bros. does say that they deliberately make the cleats out of softer metal than the pedal cages, so the cleats wear out instead of the pedals.

sbardon

All,
I XC trail ride.
I think there is something up.
I just purchased my 3rd pair of SL's (yes I wore out the first two)
The new pedals came with a very small cleat, no side to side adjustment, just two holes and no washer plate.
They look like the inserts in the three hole adapter.
I have never had issues engaging, or disengaging, I get on and go, get off and go.
Engaging just seemed to happen when I put my foot on the pedal. seemless.
Not any more.
With these new cleats it seems to take repeated hits to find the pedal, very unerving.
All of a sudden I am a rank ammature(ok I am anyway but..)
I have taken several signifigant falls while trying to engage.. or reingage..
I have had to stop and make several attempts...
I have never used the shims before...

There is something up with this new cleat.

Anyone else having this issue?
If it common I will simply go find some old style cleats... or do I have to suck this up?
tks,
S

time bandit

most lbs have the older cleats, and they should work. I never encountered the cleat you speak of, and your attatchment doesnt work, but that sounds horrible.

Andy_K 

Does your new cleat look like this?



This is the cleat that came with my new Egg Beater 2's and 3's. I haven't had any problems with missing the pedal, but the spring have stiffened up on me after a few CX races and required some lube. I do like the older cleats with the side-to-side adjustment better, but these seem to clip in just as well for me.

Is it possible that you accidentally changed your cleat position when installing the new cleats?

You may also need the shim. I just got a new pair of PI Select MTB shoes and had to double-shim these cleats to keep the tread from rubbing on the pedal and limited my float.

sbardon

Andy_K,
Yes that looks like the cleat that came with my new pedals.
I doubt that a shim is the issue as it is the same pair of shoes...
I was very carefull to make sure the dots we on the same shoe, and that the cleat was in the same position. (will triple check)
I will try the attachment again..
I hope the attachment worked, as you can see I have the new cleat installed and the old cleat is shown.
I sense some increased spring pressure but I believe it is just because the pedals are fresh, yet sometimes when I think I have hit it correctly, all my body weight won't engage the cleat. This weekend I think I might try the old cleats... see if it is the cleats or the pedals.

thanks for your help.
S

dabac

Apart from the EB Smarties, which wore out embarrasingly fast, I've had zero issues with both the original EB and EB Candy. Well, to be honest, maybe 1/4 of an issue, when fitting the cleats to my winter MTB shoes, which took both shims and a minute amounts of sole surgery before clip-in become clean and crisp. IME original EB are more tolerant about sole interface, but more demanding WRT positioning the foot correctly. Candys and suchlike are slightly easier to find the right position on, but they're all good.
With that said, I think both my shoes are set up with the sideways adjustable cleat.

sbardon

201011204 ~ Update.
Ok so I went back to the origional cleats and the problem went away.
... and yes they are very warn cleats but.
As I was changing them back I think I saw the issue.
Depending on your type of shoe, ie: mine have two slits in the sole to attach through to the plate.
The new narrower cleat no longer rests on the side of the sole, actually appears to 'pivot' on the center piece of sole between the screw attachment slots.
Add to this sole wear, especially at the front and it appears that the new small cleat 'sinks' into the reduced sole area and in doing so inhibits engagement.
You can clearly see the attachment slots around three sides of the cleat, these areas are unsupported.

I am thinking I will try the new cleats again with some sort of shim under them in the slot area so the cleat will not sink into the shoe...
and/or.. try the shim plates.
from what I am seeing, I cannot be the only one with this issue.
regards,
S