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  1. #1
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    Quill stem wont budge!!!

    so I am trying to remove my quill stem...but it wont! i took an allen wrench and loosened the long bolt all the way...i took it completely out...thinking that was the correct way...well i tried to put it back in...and just tap it with a hammer...then after i did that...whenever i try to tighten it ...its completely loose...as if there werent any threads at all...i feel like a piece fell out of it...and down the steering tube...but when i turn my bike upside down i dont hear a thing rolling around...i tried wd40 in the tube...nothing seems to get my stem to budge..im getting a lil worried that i may have to cut threw the metal...can anyone suggest something?

  2. #2
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    btw when i look down the stem (where the allen bolt use to be) i can see directly to the floor...so there doesnt seem to be a wedge there...if there was even one before...im not sure...

  3. #3
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    i'll guess when you removed the stem bolt that first time the wedge or expander (i bet its an expander from your description) stayed stuck and when you reinserted the stem bolt you didn't get it threaded back into the wedge or expander which is why its not tightening back up. try to get that stem bolt reengaged and see if you can't get that wedge to pop free after giving it some swift pounds with a rubber mallet or hammer / block of wood combination and liquid wrench...

    here's what the wedge and expander look like (part trapped in your headtube)
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html

  4. #4
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    i think its an expander too...but is it possible it fell completely out? and into my downtube...or steering tubes? cause i can see directly threw the hole of the bolt...what do i do then?

  5. #5
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    yeah its definitely not even there...

  6. #6
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    Look carefully in the hole again to see if you can see any threads at the bottom of the hole....shine a light in from the bottom....if you've ever examined rifling in a *** barrel; imagine doing that. If you see threads at the bottom the expander is still there. If it is; take your time and get the bolt threaded back in 4 or 5 turns. When it's in, you have to give the bolt head a real heavy shot with a hammer. Use a piece of wood to keep from scarring the bolt head. If it pops loose you should be good to go.

    If you don't see threads...you'll have to soak the stem with whatever myriad of solvents are about to be suggested. Let it soak overnight and then pry, beat, twist, etc. until it comes loose.

    Good luck
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

  7. #7
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    yeah if its not attached to your stem when you pull it out and not visible in your headtube it must've dropped out and rolled off someplace. LBS probably has some inexpensive quill stems for a replacement - or if you're lucky a used wedge or expander part they'll send you...

  8. #8
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    well i found the expander...i put the allen bolt threw it from the bottom ...and tapped it with wood and a hammer...pretty hard taps...no budge on the quill stem...its a steel frame...whats solvents ?

  9. #9
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    WHOA!! Your driving it the wrong way!! Put the bolt back in the correct position and try it....you're trying to "dis-engage" it from the stem and the rust that has it frozen........and no "taps"; you've got to HIT it! That's why you need the wood block....

    as for solvents...PB Blaster....Liquid Wrench....WD40...etc.....
    Last edited by Thumpic; 12-07-10 at 10:28 PM.
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dev0415 View Post
    well i found the expander...i put the allen bolt threw it from the bottom ...and tapped it with wood and a hammer...pretty hard taps...no budge on the quill stem...its a steel frame...whats solvents ?
    You cannot move the stem by driving the wedge up from the bottom. That just expands the stem and jams it harder. You have to push the wedge out (down) from the top, then try pulling the stem up.

    If you can manage to push the wedge all the way out through the bottom, or even turned sideways, you then can get a drift (punch) past it and drive the stem up with some decent hammer blows. If you go this route it's best to support the fork and locknut across vice jaws, so that all the hammer's energy goes to the stem.
    FB
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  11. #11
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    well i got the expander or wedge back on the bolt...from the top...but hitting with a hammer isn't doing anything..since its loose or completely off the quill stem...i guess just soak it in pb blaster and use force?

  12. #12
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    so the bolt head is completely in its correct position inside the stem??....if the bolt head is not completely descended to/into the stem; you have not freed the expander. You want to thread the bolt into the expander enough to provide adequate contact to force the expander down when struck without damaging the threads...while leaving enough space between the bolt head and the stem for the bolt to move down when you hit it with the hammer. I would keep alternately hitting and soaking and soaking and hitting until it pops loose. You might even turn it over and soak the expander from the bottom too.

    a pic of the bolt and stem would be nice....
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

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    yes the bolt is back in its normal position inside the stem...i loosen the bolt so the bolt sticks out maybe a quarter inch...then i've been smacking it with the hammer and wood...but the bolt just goes back into the hole...and the quill stem remains put...

  14. #14
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    very odd.......when you hit the bolt and it moves that 1/4 inch; do you un-thread it another 1/4 inch and hit it again?....or just pull it up and it stays there? If so, it sounds like the stem is seized into the steerer tube. If that is the case, brute force and more solvents will be your only choice before destructive removal.

    Having never had to destroy a stem before, I'll leave those suggestions/procedures to others....

    Good Luck..................and pics would still be a great aid...........
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

  15. #15
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    when i hit the bolt the bolt just goes back into the stem...i have to retread it to pull it out again...but the threads arent stripped...i used a lot of wd40 but im reading around...and there saying pb blaster works a lot better...so i guess i gota buy some tomorrow

  16. #16
    Senior Member peugeot mongrel's Avatar
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    If the aluminum oxides too much solvents won't work. Some suggest ammonia or hot & cold. check this out: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-stem.html google stuck stem

    I had one that was pounded in it was obviously oxidized a long time. The bolt wasn't even in it. I cut it off and drilled it out large enough a hacksaw blade could go in the hole. I sawed 3 slots carefully (aluminum is soft and cuts easily. You can stop when you get close to the steer tube) I then tapped the three pieces out, carefully, with a small chisel. I got a cheap SR stem on ebay, polished it, looks great. Good luck!











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  17. #17
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    i have a classic origin 8 quill stem...its the shiney silver look'n one...anyone know if thats steel or aluminum?

  18. #18
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    A magnet will answer your question.

    You punctuation is interesting.

  19. #19
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    o word...? u like my ...'s?

  20. #20
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    I didn't say that.

  21. #21
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    i read that if you pour boiling hot water on the stem it will expand...then go back to normal...and this process will eventually free the seal...anyone have experience with this? heres the link
    http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com...ebar-stem.html

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dev0415 View Post
    i read that if you pour boiling hot water on the stem it will expand...then go back to normal...and this process will eventually free the seal...anyone have experience with this?
    Never had to use it for bikes, but it might work.

    In similar similar situations I've used hot oil in a french fryer (450°) and had success breaking the corrosion bonds. So you have two choices, boiling water with an oce water quench, or hot oil with a cold oil quench.

    Do not quench hot oil in water, it'll spatter and burn you.
    Last edited by FBinNY; 12-08-10 at 07:14 PM.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  23. #23
    Packfodding 3 caloso's Avatar
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    Herb Caen lives!
    Cyclists of the world, unite! You have nothing to lube but your chains!

  24. #24
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    whose herb?

  25. #25
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Never had to use it for bikes, but it might work.

    In similar similar situations I've used hot oil in a french fryer (450°) and had success breaking the corrosion bonds. So you have two choices, boiling water with an oce water quench, or hot oil with a cold oil quench.

    Do not quench hot oil in water, it'll spatter and burn you.

    This is possibly the worst idea I have ever read....please don't try this. It is dangerous at every level....
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

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