10 speed cassette with Tiagra hub
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10 speed cassette with Tiagra hub
Should a 10 speed cassette fit and work properly on a Tiagra hub? I am most certain the hub I'm thinking of was built to run no more than 9 speeds. Everything appears to work (fit, spacially) OK except it seems impossible (or at least very difficult) to to run the large cog (23t) in the rear with the small chainring (39t) in the front without the RD barely scuffing spokes (non-aero, nothing special...32H Alex rim as a take off from someone else's bike....this is a Franken-build for me). I am assuming I just need to do a better job of re-dishing the wheel, but thought I should ask here and see if I'm just running up against the design limit trying to fit two sets of kit that don't work together. So, question is; possible (and just re-dish appropriately)? or not?
And, since everyone does better with graphical cues, here's a pic of the bike it's for:
Thanks in advance.
And, since everyone does better with graphical cues, here's a pic of the bike it's for:
Thanks in advance.
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yes it will work.
the problem with the chain you are describing seems to be more of an issue with the low stop limit of the RD. some minor adjustments should fix it and keep the RD from going into the spokes.
Also, is there a 1mm spacer between the cassette and hub? 10sp shimano cassettes need this spacer when used on 8/9sp hubs.
the problem with the chain you are describing seems to be more of an issue with the low stop limit of the RD. some minor adjustments should fix it and keep the RD from going into the spokes.
Also, is there a 1mm spacer between the cassette and hub? 10sp shimano cassettes need this spacer when used on 8/9sp hubs.
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#3
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thanks...actually, thanks for reminding me...any more on the low limit seemed to make it impossible to hit that cog when in the large (53t) front ring...but then again, it really shouldn't be in that combination anyway, eh?
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Some 10 speed cassettes did/do require a spacer behind them. That might be the case here. I don't believe they were very thick though, maybe just 1mm. I'm sure someone else can chime in.
If the rear derailleur is starting to rub the spokes (and has to go that far in to shift to the largest cog) I'd want to bump it out some.
If the rear derailleur is starting to rub the spokes (and has to go that far in to shift to the largest cog) I'd want to bump it out some.
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My Mavics came with a 1mm spacer for 10speed cassettes. If you don't have one, I bet your LBS could scrounge one up for you. (Especially if you show up with baked goods or malted beverages.)
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excellent..didn't think about that...didn't look at space to work with on the other side of the cassette...so, using a spacer is rather common?
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Mavic wheels all come with a crazy-looking spacer for use with shimano cassettes. Every shimano 10speed cassette i've seen come with a normal, round spacer that looks to be <1mm, and is certainly narrower than the mavic-supplied spacer. When i was running shimano 10speed on aksiums, i used both spacers, and it worked nicely. On most shimano freehubs (Like the tiagra in question), you need only the ultra-thin round spacer. Apparently, some(all?) dura-ace freehbubs are spaced for 10-speed only, which is acually narrower overall than 8- and 9-speed. Hence, the spacer for "lesser" shimano freehubs, not the D/A.
Yes, it is complicated, and probably needlessly so. Hence, some of the arguments made against the "progress" of additional cogs in groups.
-rob
Yes, it is complicated, and probably needlessly so. Hence, some of the arguments made against the "progress" of additional cogs in groups.
-rob
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Many MAVIC hubs require a MAVIC spacer approximately 2 mm thick. If you are running a 10-speed Shimano cassette with that type of MAVIC hub you will need both spacers, the MAVIC 2mm and the Shimano 1 mm.
If you use the low limit screw to move the derailleur away from the spokes it will actually help when using the 53 big ring. But as you know, you should not be cross-chaining big to big (or small to small).
If you use the low limit screw to move the derailleur away from the spokes it will actually help when using the 53 big ring. But as you know, you should not be cross-chaining big to big (or small to small).
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Right on..thank you all for the quick education here. FWIW, personally, I'm fine with many fewer cogs on the rear hub, but as I was pulling together parts for this one a $40 set of Ultegra shifters in the 10-speed variety couldn't be resisted and I guess it was all downhill from there....now, off to find a 1mm spacer.
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Ok people.
1) Mavic wheels come with their own 1.75mm spacer
2) This is NOT the same as the 1.1mm spacer supplied by shimano on all their 10 speed cassette range
1) Mavic wheels come with their own 1.75mm spacer
2) This is NOT the same as the 1.1mm spacer supplied by shimano on all their 10 speed cassette range
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Holy cow...I think I'll be just fine with either 1mm or 1.1mm...or, heck, I could get crazy & go for 0.9mm...actually, I was wondering whether in the lack of the Shimano-provided spacer any spacer of the same thickness scarfed from an old cassette would do the job. Thanks for the help + entertainment!
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The original 1mm spacer that Shimano supplies is superior to the 1mm spacers that most suppliers have. Try and stay away from the aluminum 1mm spacers. The aluminum spacers tend to bend/warp and can even break under the pressure of tightening the lockring. Shimano uses a spacer made from steel and will last many years -- even after the casette is shot the spacer will be good. So most shops should have at 1 or 2 sitting around.
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start posting when you have an actual contribution to make.
start posting when you're ready to make an attempt to help ppl, rather than snobbishly restating "real information" that's already been posted in the same thread.
maybe you should just stop posting.
best of luck!
-rob
edit/ps- the spacer is, according to shimano, 1.0mm, so start posting when you have real information, operator.
Last edited by surreal; 12-17-10 at 04:07 PM. Reason: troll-bashing
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