MTB shifters and Shimano R443
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MTB shifters and Shimano R443
In early October I had a huge crash on my roadbike, broken ribs, collarbone and collapsed lung. I've got a steel plate and 10 screws in my collarbone and just can't ride drop bars for awhile. I'm in the process of switching another bike from drops to flatbar. I'm using the Deore M510 combined shift/brake levers and a 105 rear derailleur. I read several posts where people recommended the R443 front derailleur as being compatible with a road crank as well as a mtb shifter. What I find is that the cable pull is far too long with the deore shifters due to the very long lever arm of the derailleur. Sheldon Brown recommends the R453. Does anybody have any experience using either with an MTB shifter? I have never seen the R440 flat bar shifters that this der. is supposed to work with, but I suspect that it pulls the same amount of cable as a standard road shifter, not an mtb shifter. I really like the deore shifters but i want to keep my road crank. I'd really appreciate any advice.
#2
Constant tinkerer
Best wishes on a quick recovery. That sounds like a terrible crash. Did you get hit by a car??
Is it a double or triple? Either way, I'd suggest a friction thumb shifter. I'd definitely go this route on a double, because there's really no point in trying to index between two positions. I don't think it would be a big deal on a triple either.
Is it a double or triple? Either way, I'd suggest a friction thumb shifter. I'd definitely go this route on a double, because there's really no point in trying to index between two positions. I don't think it would be a big deal on a triple either.
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I have been using SLX triggers shifters with a R443 and a 52-42-30 crankset, works like a charm. All Shimano trigger shifters use a MTB cable pull, the R443 and R453 are designed to use a MTB cable pull but have cages that accommodate a road crank.
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Sorry to hear about your crash. I had something similar in 2005--left collarbone, shoulder blade, glenoid neck, a couple ribs, and a partially collapsed lung. It gets better with time, but as you get older, 'arthur' will come visiting! Best of luck in your recovery.
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Thanks for the good wishes! My problem with the R443 fd is that each click of the shifter moves the cage twice as far as it should. The shifter is pulling approximately 10 mm of cable per click. If I have the chain on the center ring and shift to the largest ring it shifts so far that the inner part of the cage contacts the ring. If I set the limit screw it hits the stop before the shifter clicks. I'm wondering if the Deore shifter is pulling more cable than other MTB shifters. I know that is unlikely, but I don't have any other explanation for what's going on.
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Thanks for the good wishes! My problem with the R443 fd is that each click of the shifter moves the cage twice as far as it should. The shifter is pulling approximately 10 mm of cable per click. If I have the chain on the center ring and shift to the largest ring it shifts so far that the inner part of the cage contacts the ring. If I set the limit screw it hits the stop before the shifter clicks. I'm wondering if the Deore shifter is pulling more cable than other MTB shifters. I know that is unlikely, but I don't have any other explanation for what's going on.
That sounds like you don't really have an FD-R443 derailleur. Are you sure you don't have a Tiagra or something similar? (All of mine say "Shimano 9-speed" on the cage.) I've been running the FD-R443 derailleur with Shimano trigger shifters for years, and it works perfectly. The FD-R453 has the same length arm as the FD-R443, so you'd have the same problem.
Also, the cable should go over the mounting bolt. The cable should be routed as shown here:
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830684418.PDF
If it's clamped below the little projection or on the bottom side of the bolt, the pull ratio will be thrown off.
Examples:
https://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/...es/bike025.htm
https://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/...-grr%20006.htm
https://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/...-grr%20008.htm
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Jeff Wills
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Arthur? Are you talking about Arthur Itis? I know that guy really well. He sure gets around. Sometimes I have my friend Jack run him off.
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Consider sticking with drop bars but raise them and reduce the reach. I find riding on the tops and hoods to be far preferable to riding with flat bars. YMMV.
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