Dancing Skeleton

Is there any way to remove the dust cup from a 105 5700 crank without using a special tool?
I'd like to swap my crank, and I haven't bought the tool yet.

Thanks

Chris_W

The tool is only a couple of dollars, hopefully you can get one locally quite easily. However, I have had to remove a crank once or twice without the tool. To do so, first fully release the two allen bolts holding the left-hand crank on, then get a pair of needle-nose pliers and try to hold them so that you are forcing their ends apart instead of together (this is the fiddly part). Now put the tips of the pliers in the dust cap (I'm not sure that's the right word, but it's good enough) and then you have to hope that the pliers will engage the ridges enough and that the cap is not screwed on too tight, and then you might be able to remove it by rotating the pliers. There's no guarantee that this will work, but it is the best solution I found when I was in need but without the right tool available.

CACycling

And it's not a dust cap, it is the bearing pre-load adjustment.

FuzzyDunlop

I've done this, too. I've also screwed it back in this way, without the tool. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the pliers, otherwise you'll damage the part.

That being said, the tool is pretty useful and let's you make much more precise adjustments. The Park BBT-9 has it on one end, with the tool to remove your bottom bracket on the other.

DiabloScott

Nope, it's just to push the crank arm on to the spindle.

jasonrobo02

Uhhhh, I hope you're not trying to dispute CACyling by saying it's not a preload adjuster. Because it's function is the same as a threadless headset topcap.

DiabloScott

Don't mean to step on anybody's toes, especially anyone with such a high esteem as CACycling's.

When I hear preload, I think of old balls and cups and cones.
And it appears from the literature and videos that I've been perusing that the objective is for the crank arm to be barely touching the bearing face, and that even a little side load will mess them up quickly.

So I will appreciate being schooled if I'm wrong... really.

Dan Burkhart 

Can't be completely the same because an external bb does not use angular contact bearings.

jasonrobo02

Diablo, I agree with you that the function isn't to crank down on the adjuster with all your weight, but remember that "preload" isn't a very specific term. Something that has 2000# of preload and another thing that has 0.00001# of preload are both "preloaded".

From your last comment it seems that you understand the concept of the adjuster piece. It's just that your initial comment seemed to downplay the significance of even using the adjuster piece and I didn't want anyone reading to think that if they could put the crank arm onto the spindle without using the adjuster, then their installation would be fine.

jasonrobo02

True. I guess I was too matter-of-fact with my word choice.

FuzzyDunlop

So what's the verdict on not using the proper tool to install it?

badamsjr

+1 I had a 'situation' with an install where I was able to 'preload' the off-side crank arm, but had a lot of drag in the 'finished' crank setup. It turned out that the drive side bearing was not fully seated, and when I 'preloaded' the non-drive side arm, it caused binding. I was able to disassemble it and clean the threads on the drive side, so the drive side bearing fully seated, then when I reassembled it, it worked as it should.

CACycling

OK, how about "adjusting cap" instead of "preload"? My point was that it wasn't a dust cap, it is there set the tension prior to clamping the crank arm down (similar to a headset but NOT the same). Can we all be freinds again?

DiabloScott

Friends.

OP wants to swap his crank, not change his BB so he probably doesn't want to buy the Park BB wrench with the adjuster cap knob.
He can probably get the old one off without the tool, but no one is suggesting he put the new one on without the tool.
So if he's in a hurry and he's willing to risk damaging the cap with a pliars and he's going to buy the proper tool before he puts on the new crank... then OK, but it seems kind of silly.

operator

People.

The proper shimano 'cap' tool (yes it's referred to as a cap in the techdocs), is $2. Seriously. Why are we talking about this.

TLCFORBIKES

We are talking about it because someone asked a question concerning the use of (or not to use) the proper tool. I am in favor of using the proper tool. It allows the user to get a better feel for how much torque is being applied to the cap. Other methods may be used but using the proper tool is best. Sometime people put the cap on very tight and the proper tool really shines. Spend the money and get the tool.

operator

Wait a second, you're advising us to use common sense to solve a poblem?

Dancing Skeleton

No need to get into a fight.

There are many times that a specific tool is not needed to complete a job. I just wanted to know if there was another way. I have a Holowtech II tool on the way.

Thanks,

Peter

rsilvers

Tool for Shimano HollowTech crank by rsilvers - Thingiverse

dubes

Sorry, just blowing off steam at bumping a 5-year old thread with no pertinent information.