Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pederson racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
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So many ways to skin the cat...
The Tourney levers are mechanized and don't support friction.
Any clamp made from sheet steel can be adapted to the 23.8mm road bar diameter. But the center sleeve is another 2mm bigger so where do you plan to mount them?
A longer bolt works up to a point, then must be curved and so secured with a nut (since you can't turn a bent bolt).
I've always managed to mount the suckers somehow, from the above choices. I usually run them with one cable above the other so as to get them closer to the bar's center. Looks asymmetric but functions fine.
Note that 9-speed bar end shifters turn up used, usually for about $40. Nine-speeders seem to be a bit cheaper than others.
Lastly, I've also used chromed-steel road bars from cheap ten-speeds like Varsities and such. The clamp diameter will be 25.4mm but there's usually no sleeve and the bar's diameter is only 22mm (same as mtb bars).
This opens up the options to include cast-aluminum, higher-quality XT thumbies.
It also allows Grip shifters to slide on, once modified as follows: The inner and outer sleeves of the GripShifter must be slotted along most of their length, two slots 180-degrees apart. The end of each slot should be terminated with a drilled hole to prevent cracking and the hole must be drilled first, then the slots are sawed to meet the holes. The shifter is slid onto the bar one sleeve at a time, then assembled on the upper flat portion adjacent to the stem clamp.
I've even similarly modified Suntour twist shifters that have a somewhat different design, that was tougher in terms of time spent.
Last edited by dddd; 12-29-10 at 09:42 PM.
Reason: Added steel bar options