bobonker

Hi there,

I'm in the process of upgrading my bike from Ultegra 6600 to 2011 SRAM Force. With the 6600 setup, I had inline barrel adjusters for both shifters about 2 inches away from the shifter.

With the new shifters, the cables are routed along the bar, so there is no place for me to put the adjusters. For the rear D, it's not a huge deal since there is an adjuster on the rear D itself. However, for the front D, I have no way to adjust the cable tension. There is no barrel adjuster on the frame itself ('09 Madone 4.7).

I've attached a pic of my progress so far. This is the first time I've done something like this and would appreciate any feedback or tips on how the cable routing should be done.

Thanks,
Bob

TLCFORBIKES

Use the same in-line adjusters. Attach the in-line adjusters somewhere in front of where the cables inter the frame allong the downtube (anywhere from 2" of exposed cable housing all the way to where the derailleur housing contacts (or cross) each other in front of the frame. No problem to do. You will want to have both cable adjusters installed.

BCRider

Exactly. Don't feel like you need to be bound by the housings and parts you're given in the SRAM kit. Cutting and fitting housings, including doing this to install inline adjusters, is purely up to the end user.

The question should be did you like the adjusters where they were or did you find them awkward to use? If you didn't really like them there then think about it in terms of where they would be better for access and ease of use while riding and install them in the housing at that point. This is your chance to make the installation suit YOU instead of what someone thought you were supposed to like.

bobonker

Thanks for the quick response, guys. I'd like to use them, but I want the install to be clean. Attaching along the side looks like it's a no-go because the adjuster would be rubbing on the frame. Will I have any issues if I install them in front of the head tube? (pic 1)

Thanks,
Bob

TLCFORBIKES

Use something like Framesaver or a product like a chainstay protector and put it along the frame where the adjusters touch the frame. I use a clear chainstay protector product that is not visible when applied properly. You will want to protect the frame from housing rubor adjuster rub anyway. Works great and easy to apply. Put adjusters along the frame headtube or in front of the headtube -- it is your choise. Make sure you have a very good pair of cable/housing cutters and then make sure the cut is clean and the hole is reamed open. I also like to have the adjusting barrel on the bottom end (like the pictures show).

bobonker

Got it. Thanks! Last question....hopefully. Shouldn't there be a ferrule on the end of the cable housing where it inserts into the shifter assembly? When I took my 6600 setup apart, I found that none of the cables had them on the end that inserted into the shifter. I can't think of a reason to not put one there?

Thanks,
Bob

fietsbob

There is die cut patches to put on the frame, clear plastic tape thick with tidy edges ..
you can stick those on where contact is an issue..


a use of the 4th hand tool can fine tune the cable tension
before you tighten the bolt on the Front derailleur itself..

BCRider

If the adjusters were snug fits on the housing then they are intended to be their own ferrules and you don't need any. I would suggest that when you cut the housings for any point that you then dress the ends flat and square with either a file or a grinder.

If you're using a file you can make up a slick little holder for the housing by drilling a hole in a bit of wood that is a snug fit on the jacket. Clamp the wood in a vise or to the edge of your bench and push the housing up through the hole and while holding it with the ragged end just barely sticking up push the file over the end a few times to flatten and square it up. The wood acts as a guide for the file.

As for where to put the guide I think I would find it awkward to use it while it's near the frame tubes. I think I'm set it up so that they are either up where you had them before or down in free air just in front of the head tube. Both positions would be easier to manipulate while riding by not having the frame tubes in the way.

TLCFORBIKES

You will need ferrules on both ends of the in-line adjuster. If the in-line adjusters in the pictures are the ones that where used with the 6600's there should be a total of 8 derailleur housing (4mm) ferrules. You will still need a total of 8 ferrules (4 for each shifter).

You should have had ferrules on the housing going into the 6600 shifters.

Those in-line adjusters come with a assortment of ferrules to fit a variety of housingnsizes. All of these ferrules fit into the in-line adjsters perfectly. You do not want ferrules that fit loosely into the adjusting end (and want at least fairly snug fit on the non-adjusting end). Snug fitting ferrules work the best.

operator

Along the frame is dumb, because it'll slap the headtube. Always splice inlines so that they don't hit the frame under normal steering.

operator

Brake housing does not need ferrules in the lever, shift housing does.

TLCFORBIKES

It did sound like the OP was making a statement about there wasn't any ferrules on any of the housing entering the STI levers. If he didn't have ferrules on the derailleur cable housing -- then he needs another mechanic working on his bike. There should have been ferrules on all the ends of the derailleur cable housing. If he didn't have ferrules on the brake housing then that is how it is done. The Same applies to the Sram Double Tap levers.

Up in Canada (I lived in Calgary for 6 years - grad. high school there) some may call routing the derailleur cable adjuster a couple inchs in front of the cable stop on the downtube (around the headtube area) dumb. Different people have different opinions. Some may think that the adjuster is easier to get to if put in that area. The last time I saw a adjusting barrel "hit" the headtube was several years ago. The headtube "hit" the adjusting barrel back and that was it. No blood - no foul. Really there will be some lite rubbing and that is when Framesaver or like product comes into the picture. I will not route the cables criss-cross just to keep the rubbing from happening (unless per the customers request).

time bandit

if it fits, use a ferrule.

bobonker

Ok, it is all done. This was my first time doing something like this, so it took me over a day, but I learned a lot.

I'm not real happy with how the positioning of the adjusters came out. The one for the rear D was initially further down towards the downtube (so there was no interference then), but I had problems with it interfering with the front brake caliper area. I had to move it up and now it periodically hits the adjuster for the front D. I guess I'll be redoing the cables again.

Thanks for all of the help with this. You guys saved me a lot of time and frustration.

Bob