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Old 12-31-10, 10:33 PM   #1
nadimk
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Poprad disc to rim brake conversion

Hey all,
Has anyone converted a disc only steel frame to a rear rim brake? I want rim brakes on my Lemond Poprad disc. I figure two ways:
1. Drill a hole for a long reach caliper brake in the seat stay cross bridge
OR
2. Weld bosses onto the stays.

Any ideas?
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Old 12-31-10, 11:04 PM   #2
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Why do you want to change them? Disks are the future.
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Old 12-31-10, 11:25 PM   #3
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Why do you want to change them? Disks are the future.
I have found the avid bb7 road system even when adjusted properly to work poorly with road shifters. They are very noisy in the wet. Are their newer better road disc systems out there? I'd be willing to try them if better than the bb7's.
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Old 01-03-11, 04:17 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by nadimk View Post
I have found the avid bb7 road system even when adjusted properly to work poorly with road shifters.
That is quite unusual, they're often very highly rated. Work poorly in what way?

Squealing in the wet is a commom thing for disc brakes, but there are several different types of pads available. Some might do better in this perspective.

Or yuou can check out the doppelmoppel, a wire-to-hydraulic adapter. That'd let you use basically any disc brake out there.
But again, squealing in the wet is a common thing, so there's no guarantee that it'll be good enough for your taste.
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Old 01-03-11, 08:15 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by nadimk View Post
I have found the avid bb7 road system even when adjusted properly to work poorly with road shifters. They are very noisy in the wet. Are their newer better road disc systems out there? I'd be willing to try them if better than the bb7's.
Is your only complaint that they're noisy in the wet? They'll still work and any other system will not be as good if that's the complaint. If they're not working well they're not set up right if that's the case. Between pad adjustment and the inline adjusters they'll put any other canti or side pull brake system to shame - and be efficient doing so.

Are you explicitly following the setup instructions? It's easy to think you know how, and it's amazing how many shops don't follow the directions. I can train a chimp to install these correctly, and I'm not talking one of those NASA chimps neither. I'm talking the throwing poo at the zoo type
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Old 01-03-11, 08:18 PM   #6
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At least try some different pads and rotors before you go welding rim-brakes back on and buying a new wheel! My v-brakes still squeal under various conditions also... so no solace there... maybe you just remember the good ol' days better than they used to be
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Old 01-03-11, 08:58 PM   #7
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I find that most people with the mechanical disc brakes forget to readjust the inside pad as the brake pad wears down. The inside pad needs to be almost touching the rotor full time for best stopping, and the outside pad does all the modulation. Sight down through the rotor and brake and then turn the red disc dial closest to the spokes to move the pads further in, then adjust the cable tension.
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Old 01-03-11, 11:15 PM   #8
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Welding on bosses or drilling into your nice Lemond frame seems like way more trouble than it's worth.

You don't even need to use your rear brake most of the time, except in wet or slippery conditions. The front brake is the important one. As long as they're both working ok, I say use your front brake and forget about the noisy rear brake (rim brakes can be noisy when wet too!)
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Old 01-04-11, 05:23 AM   #9
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try using the G2 or G3 clean sweep rotors with the standard pads, not the organics.
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