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  1. #1
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    removing the brake and grip shift wires from the head?

    As illustrated by this picture I'd like to temporarily disengage the brake and gear changer wires from the head and then put them back in. Is that possible and easily done?
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  2. #2
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Yes and yes for the brakes. Yes and maybe for the shifter.

    Before I type a lot or look for links, what are you trying to do exactly?

    Also what kind of brakes do you have? Cantilever or V-brake?

    Well, I still have 9 minutes to kill, sooo. If Cantilever, disconnect the brake like in this video. (V-brakes can be released at the noodle in a similar fashion by squeezing the pads to the rim with one hand and pulling the noodle free with the other). Then make sure the silver brake adjuster and lock nut on the lever shown in your pic have their slots lined up with the slot in the brake lever body. then you'll be able to pop the head of the brake cable out and pull the cable free of the brake lever.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-01-11 at 05:09 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  3. #3
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    Fairly easy with many brake levers if you can scare up enough slack, tougher on the gear because all (or maybe most) aren't slotted and the wire must be threaded from the end.

    For the brake, check that there is a slot in the lever body, or that the adjuster thread is bigger than the cable head. The rest depends on the lever and adjuster.

    If the lever body and adjuster are both slotted turn the adjusters to the lowest point then align all the slots. Squeeze the brake caliper (with the wheel out, if necessary) to get enough slack to pull the housing out beyond the top of the adjuster, and guide the inner wire out through the slot., then disconnect the head from the lever by lining the wire uo with the slot and sliding the head out sideways.

    If the lever body is slotted but the adjuster isn't it's similar, but instead of screwing it down you need to screw it all the way up and pass the wire through the slot on the lever body, keeping the adjuster with the wire. The rest is the same, but you usually need to remove the wheels to squeeze the brakes far enough the get the slack you need.

    If neither of the above apply to your levers you're SOL, and need to disconnect the other end and unthread the entire cable.
    FB
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  4. #4
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    OK, 4 minutes to kill... SOME Grip Shifters have cable head access down near the 7 on the shifter. Just peel back the rubber a bit in that area and look for a cable head. Other Gripshifters aren't so easy.

    If you want to release the cable from the shifter, you'll have to pull it all the way out through the shifter. I suggest getting a new cable if you're going to do this just because new cables are nice and if you're going to go to the trouble of pulling the cable out, might as well put a new one in while you're at it.

    Sooo, IF you have a Gripshift with the easily accessible cable head:
    Loosen the bolt that clamps the cable to the rear derailer.
    Cut the cable so that only clean cable is left. The squished part that was under the cable clamp is very hard to pull through cable housing.
    Peel back the rubber at the shifter.
    Push on the derailer end of the cable and jiggle it a bit.
    Grab the cable end and pull it out.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  5. #5
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    Yes and yes for the brakes. Yes and maybe for the shifter.
    Actually, the shifters are even easier to do.
    1. Shift into the biggest sprocket.
    2. WITHOUT TURNING THE CRANK shift back to the smallest sprocket position. That'll make the shift cable go slack.
    3. Now you can easily disconnect the shift cable housings from the cable stops.

  6. #6
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    ^ I've done that in order to lube up some crusty cable on bikes I've acquired. It seems the OP wants to actually pull the cable out of the shifter. I'm still not sure why...
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

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    Sorry I should have explained. I went to a New Years Eve party last night and somehow drank enough that I misplaced my keys along with the key to my U lock wrapped around the neck of my bike. I think the keys are gone for good. I can't remove the u lock though (conveniently I didn't lock up my bike at my friend's apt) because the wires connecting to my right hand brake and gear shifter are blocking its way. I figured the easiest way would be to disconnect them at the head. Is that the best method? I don't want to break the u lock in case I ever find my keys.

  8. #8
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    remove grips and slide shifters and brake off the bars, edit: even easier remove the stem.

  9. #9
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    I can remove the stem but that my u lock is actually between the stem, the other handebars wires and the right handlebars wires in such a way that i'd have to go through the right handlebar wires. I want ot remove the shifters and brakes but I think that doing so would be more difficult. I'd have to apply lube to the bar and shifters and then force them off right?

  10. #10
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    OK, what to do depends on what it's locked around.

    Just around the handlebar? Most bikes come stock with cable housing long enough to pull the brake levers and shifters off the bar. Just loosen shifter cable as per Retro Grouch's technique, pop a couple of housing lengths out of cable stops. Release brake as per video link I posted. Remove grip. Remove shifter. Remove Brake lever. Remove Ulock.

    You'll only need to pull cable if the lock's locked around some cable.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  11. #11
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Pham View Post
    I can remove the stem but that my u lock is actually between the stem, the other handebars wires and the right handlebars wires in such a way that i'd have to go through the right handlebar wires.
    Can you take a photo of the lock's position?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Pham View Post
    I want ot remove the shifters and brakes but I think that doing so would be more difficult. I'd have to apply lube to the bar and shifters and then force them off right?
    No need for lube for shifters and brake levers. Likely just need to loosen an allen head bolt to loosen both. (oh, some brakes might have a nut)

    The grips might be tough. I usually spray a little Windex in there to help loosen 'em.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-01-11 at 06:17 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  12. #12
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    If your Ulock is on there in the right way and you have a stem with removable faceplate, you'll just need to pop that off.

    edit: actually I don't think I can think of a ulock orientation where that would work, but removing stem from steerer would not work.

    Hoping for a photo.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-01-11 at 06:16 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  13. #13
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    Sure. Here's two. Hopefully they're clear enough.
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    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    OK, you'll need to pull the cables for the right hand controls and detach the stem somewhere - I'd probably remove the stem faceplate, just so the headset adjustment doesn't have to get messed with.

    No need to pull controls off the bars.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  15. #15
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    The video was very helpful but

    1) I actually found out the grip shift slides out really easily. My issue is that the grip shift won't slide out far enough to leave the handlebar (argh so close to an easy answer)
    2) When I loostened the allen bolt the grip shift wouldn't come apart. I turned the right grip shift to the highest (8) gear right?

  16. #16
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Actually I guess you can get the Ulock over the shifter and brake if you remove them from bar, so...

    OK, re-read Retro Grouch's post. If you do what he says and remove the cable housing (black plastic around the cables) from where it meets the cable stop on the top tube of the frame. Basically the cable should be loose enough that you can pull the black cable housing forward and it will be released from the frame and you'll have plenty of slack to get the shifter off the bar.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-01-11 at 08:25 PM. Reason: change of plan
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  17. #17
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    Weird. Granted I already loosened the allen bolt when I tried to do this but when I tried to shift from 8 to 1 I could only get to the 4. Still not slack enough to pull off the bar. Any suggestions?

  18. #18
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Just keep taking housing sections out of cable stops 'til you get the necessary slack. If you've got the housing that runs from shifter to the cable stop on the top tube, move on to the one around the seat cluster. There's a little length that goes from the top tube to the seat stay. If you pop that length out of the cable stops the cable will be free from the bike between the bottom of the seat stay and the shifter. That should be enough slack to pull the shifter off. If not, turn the bars to the right.

    Somehow I think you haven't freed the first section of housing from the cable stop.

    If you want to keep plugging away at it, I guess you can go ahead and pull the faceplate off the stem since you need to do that anyways. Two allen bolts. Fairly self explanatory.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-01-11 at 08:50 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  19. #19
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    sorry what are

    1) housing sections
    and
    2) cable stops
    3) seat cluster
    I'm assuming you mean those points near the head and seat where the cable locks onto the body. I tried sliding the cable out of those grooves but they're very secure. Is there a method?

  20. #20
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    sorry can someone demonstrate to me how to remove the cables from the "housing sections?" or to disengage the grip shifter after loosening the allen sockets? I even tried using a flat edged screw driver to pry it in two. no dice.

  21. #21
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Read each of these paragraphs at least 3 times before reading the next one. Try to take them independently of each other and understand their meanings.

    I'm fairly sure your gripshifter is not the same style as the one in that video. Stop watching that video. Stop trying to pry on your gripshift with a screwdriver. Could you not locate the cable head by lifting up on the rubber and having a peek underneath? Whichever the answer, just leave it alone for now.

    I think you can get the shifter off the bar by releasing one or two cable housing runs. Firstly, can you take a photograph of your first shifter housing run (the one that goes from the shifter to the top tube)?
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-02-11 at 02:02 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  22. #22
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    To the OP, Wisdom is recognizing schit before you step in it. It pays to know when you're in over your head and back away from a job before you cause secondary damage. If you find dis-engaging the cables at all complicated, or are tempted to pry, bend or use force, you should probably quit while you're ahead.

    Cable removal from the levers or shifters requires finesse, not force. I'd like to help you, and usually don't like to send folks off to the shop for things they can learn for themselves, but at the same time don't want to lead someone into a pile of crap.

    If you're struggling, bring the bike to the shop, let them do it for you, and ask that the mechanic let you watch, (or that he teach you) so you'll be able to next time.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

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    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  23. #23
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    Here's the picture of the housing.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Pham View Post
    Here's the picture of the housing.
    OK with that kind of fulcrum (brazed-on cable stop) you can quickly disconnect the cable by squeezing the brake together, and pulling the housing back until it clears the slot, then sliding the wire out the slot.

    BTW- stupid question. freeing the cable from the frame won't release the lock, Is the lever of a tyoe where you can disconnect the cable?
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  25. #25
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    OK. My mistake. Your shifter cable run goes to the down tube. It has a cable stop just like the one for the brake you photographed.

    1. lift bike by saddle so that rear wheel is raised and pedal lightly so that rear derailer is properly situated.

    THEN, follow Retro's cable loosening technique:

    1. Shift into the biggest sprocket. (gripshift on the 1)
    1.a. Pedal some while lifting the rear wheel so that the chain is on the biggest cog
    2. WITHOUT TURNING THE CRANK shift back to the smallest sprocket position (gripshift on the 8, or as far as it will go). That'll make the shift cable go slack.
    3. Now you can easily disconnect the shift cable housings from the cable stops.

    To clarify step 3, pull the black housing forward. Then pull the cable through the slot on the cable stop. The cable run will now be free and will allow you to pull the shifter off the bar.

    Technique for the brake is the same. Once you have the rear brake released (or just hold it shut as per FB), there should be enough slack that you can pull forward on the black cable housing and pull the cable out through the slot.

    HTH
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-02-11 at 04:32 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

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