Rear Derailleur installation
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Rear Derailleur installation
I'm having problems getting my shimano 600 rear derailer back on and adjusted right. I bolted it on, ran the chain through it, then put the downtube shifter all the way forward, and tightened the cable. Now the part I am having problems with is getting it to go on the biggest sprocket. I tuned the screws so that the smallest sprocket is aligned when the derailleur is over it, but when i shift up to the big sprocket, it wont move over it, no matter the adjustment screw position.
The derraileur cage also looks really close to the sprockets, I dont remember this being normal. I live a long way from any bike shop, so I have to do most things myself. Any thoughts?
Thanks
The derraileur cage also looks really close to the sprockets, I dont remember this being normal. I live a long way from any bike shop, so I have to do most things myself. Any thoughts?
Thanks
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Was the rd working properly before you removed it and did you change anything else while it was off?
As a first test, shift to the smallest cog and check the cable tension again. Often it takes a couple of trys to get it snug enough to shift all the way across the cassette.
If that doesn't do it, try disconnecting the cable entirely and while turning the crank by hand shifting the derailleur by hand all the way to the biggest cog. If you can get that to work, the problem is cable tension or a defective shifter. If it won't go that far by hand, the problem is the limit screw is too tight or the jockey wheel is hitting the big cog and you have to turn the "b-screw" in further to get clearance.
As a first test, shift to the smallest cog and check the cable tension again. Often it takes a couple of trys to get it snug enough to shift all the way across the cassette.
If that doesn't do it, try disconnecting the cable entirely and while turning the crank by hand shifting the derailleur by hand all the way to the biggest cog. If you can get that to work, the problem is cable tension or a defective shifter. If it won't go that far by hand, the problem is the limit screw is too tight or the jockey wheel is hitting the big cog and you have to turn the "b-screw" in further to get clearance.
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I'm having problems getting my shimano 600 rear derailer back on and adjusted right. I bolted it on, ran the chain through it, then put the downtube shifter all the way forward, and tightened the cable. Now the part I am having problems with is getting it to go on the biggest sprocket. I tuned the screws so that the smallest sprocket is aligned when the derailleur is over it, but when i shift up to the big sprocket, it wont move over it, no matter the adjustment screw position.
The derraileur cage also looks really close to the sprockets, I dont remember this being normal. I live a long way from any bike shop, so I have to do most things myself. Any thoughts?
Thanks
The derraileur cage also looks really close to the sprockets, I dont remember this being normal. I live a long way from any bike shop, so I have to do most things myself. Any thoughts?
Thanks
It also sounds like your cable isn't tight enough. Limit screws are exactly that - limits. They keep the derailleur from going too far, but moving to the right positions is all in the cable tension.
Read this article: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur
Last edited by Nerull; 01-14-11 at 09:01 PM.
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OK thanks guys, I'll do some reading tonight and try again tommorow. After I read HillRider's post, I went and had a friend pull the cable really tight and I tightened the bolt, and we got it on there pretty tight. It now will shift to the upper cog, but the cage is still very close to the sprockets, I think it has something to do with the b-screw Nerull was talking about. Even though, I dont see a screw there on mine?
Thanks for the advice though guys and hopefully I can figure it out
Thanks for the advice though guys and hopefully I can figure it out
Last edited by skyzo; 01-14-11 at 09:26 PM.
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I think I fixed it this morning. There is no b-screw on the 600 series derailleurs, so the way of adjusting spring tension is with these little spring hole things, I moved it to the next highest setting, and then re-installed it, and its back to normal. Also I had to rotate the unit a little clockwise to get that notch to line up. Seems to shift good so far. I'm working on the front one now, and its being finicky, but ill get it!
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