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Old 02-24-11, 05:15 PM   #1
kaimat
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How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?

I'm looking into buying a Park Tool PCS-10 to use when I need to do maintenance, but I've always been worried about holding the bike by the seat post.

Are my worries real or imaginary?
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Old 02-24-11, 05:17 PM   #2
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imaginary. You put your entire body weight on the seatpost and nothing happens. The weight of the bike will not do anything.
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Old 02-24-11, 05:26 PM   #3
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I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?
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Old 02-24-11, 05:30 PM   #4
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Agree there is no problem and the PCS-10 is a great work stand. People often grab the seat post because, if they mess it up, it can be replaced where if you clamp to the top tube, a mistake can ruin the frame. A lot depends on how tight you clamp down and how much torque you are applying. I usually clamp to the frame because it is more convenient.
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Old 02-24-11, 05:33 PM   #5
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I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?
It depends on the frame material. Thin wall aluminum and carbon frames are difficult to clamp safely by the top tube so the seat post is used as a stronger clamping location. Heavier wall steel and Ti frames can be safely clamped by the top tube.
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Old 02-24-11, 05:42 PM   #6
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OK I give up. How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?
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Old 02-24-11, 05:43 PM   #7
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Bike = 20 to 25 pounds or lighter
Person = 100 to 300 pounds. Give or take.
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Old 02-24-11, 06:50 PM   #8
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You could just get a PRS-20 and then not worry about it at all.
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Old 02-24-11, 07:44 PM   #9
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OK I give up. How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?
Only until you need to put another bike in the bike stand.
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Old 02-24-11, 07:46 PM   #10
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How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?
Squints: For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver!

- The Sandlot

Seriously though, the amount of time you have a bike clamped in a stand is irrelevant since the force on whatever part you are clamping is constant.

Cheers
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Old 02-24-11, 07:49 PM   #11
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How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?
Oh boy, a contest! What's the prize for whoever does it longest?
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Old 02-24-11, 10:06 PM   #12
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Haha, I just wasn't sure, like if I were to keep it up for awhile, if that would harm it. I'm still pretty new to all this stuff, and I don't want to ruin my bike.

Thanks for the advice everyone.
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Old 02-24-11, 10:09 PM   #13
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Are my worries real or imaginary?
Yes.
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Old 02-24-11, 11:14 PM   #14
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I've had a bike in the workstand for almost a year. Do I win?

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I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?
With a lever and cam type clamp like what is on the PCS-10, it's really easy to misjudge how tight it is set. Misjudge just once and the top tube or seat tube has gone from round to square and is beyond repair. (I rhyme!) You therefore clamp to the more easily and less expensively replaced seatpost. Screw type clamps are more of a headache to use but it's also easier to avoid overtightening them.
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Old 02-25-11, 06:38 AM   #15
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The PCS-10 clamp can be turned into (effectively) a screw type clamp by closing the cam (loosely) around the bike and using the adjustment crank to tighten.
CC
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Old 02-25-11, 09:29 AM   #16
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Make sure theres enough seatpost inside the frame. I've seen instances where there wasn't enough and it made a big impression on the seat tube.
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Old 02-25-11, 09:40 AM   #17
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Squints: For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver!

- The Sandlot

Seriously though, the amount of time you have a bike clamped in a stand is irrelevant since the force on whatever part you are clamping is constant.

Cheers
But you don't want it to get pinch-t.
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Old 02-25-11, 10:15 AM   #18
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You therefore clamp to the more easily and less expensively replaced seatpost.
Or, better yet, you buy the cheapest aluminum or steel seatpost you can find in the right diameter and dedicate it to repair stand use.
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Old 02-25-11, 10:18 AM   #19
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The seat post is the best choice

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I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?

Unless you`re dealing with a junker, the seatpost is the best choice for a number of reasons:

(A) The finish on the seatpost is impossible to damage by clamping, The bicycle tubes often have decals that can be damaged by clamping, and particularly on new bikes, the paint can still be a little soft if right from the factory. Even if the paint ia a two part catalyst system.

(B) The normal reason a bike is put in a work stand is - to work on it. And the most common tasks are tune-ups and flat tires.

OK - so considering that most bikes have cable runs on the toptube, clamping the bike by the top tube would squeeze/trap the cables and impede or prevent optimal adjustment of both the brakes and the shifters. In some cases it might also prevent the rear brake from being easily disconnected to simply remove the rear wheel to fix a flat.

Thats my take on things anyway.
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Old 02-25-11, 12:20 PM   #20
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I've had a bike in the workstand for almost a year. Do I win?
Paid by the hour, eh?
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Old 02-25-11, 12:24 PM   #21
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Or, better yet, you buy the cheapest aluminum or steel seatpost you can find in the right diameter and dedicate it to repair stand use.
That's what I used to do, but as my collection of bikes grew, and the variety of seat post diameters with it, I finally invested in the Park ISC-1.

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Old 02-25-11, 01:52 PM   #22
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That's what I used to do, but as my collection of bikes grew, and the variety of seat post diameters with it, I finally invested in the Park ISC-1.

+1. If you work on a wide range of bikes, that Park tool is the way to go.

All of my bikes take either a 27.2 or 31.6 mm seatpost so a cheap Kaloy posts in 27.2 and a low line Easton in 31.6 ran me a total of about $25. Asking at an LBS may get you a used seatpost from a trashed bike or one that was replaced by an upgrade at nearly no cost.
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Old 02-25-11, 07:44 PM   #23
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That's what I used to do, but as my collection of bikes grew, and the variety of seat post diameters with it, I finally invested in the Park ISC-1.
Take the seatpost out? Just to work on the bike? Really?

Just get a PRS-20 type stand and be done with it. None of that seatpost malarkey needed.
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Old 02-25-11, 08:54 PM   #24
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Paid by the hour, eh?
Nope. Classic Zaskar build just took a while to find all the right NOS parts.

I had two other mountain bikes to take up the slack plus two commuters and a roadie.

My current build has been in the workstand since October. It only needs cables and bar tape but there is nearly a foot of snow on the ground so I've been using my spare time to get a legacy computer going for all my old dos games.
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Old 02-25-11, 09:41 PM   #25
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After about a year I would take it down and inspect it for stress fractures, etc. If it looks OK, go ahead and clamp 'er back in there for another year.
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