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  1. #1
    Who is Lance Armstrong?
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    How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?

    I'm looking into buying a Park Tool PCS-10 to use when I need to do maintenance, but I've always been worried about holding the bike by the seat post.

    Are my worries real or imaginary?
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  2. #2
    Dog is my co-pilot 2manybikes's Avatar
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    imaginary. You put your entire body weight on the seatpost and nothing happens. The weight of the bike will not do anything.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #3
    Who is Lance Armstrong?
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    I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?
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    Senior Member CACycling's Avatar
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    Agree there is no problem and the PCS-10 is a great work stand. People often grab the seat post because, if they mess it up, it can be replaced where if you clamp to the top tube, a mistake can ruin the frame. A lot depends on how tight you clamp down and how much torque you are applying. I usually clamp to the frame because it is more convenient.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kaimat View Post
    I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?
    It depends on the frame material. Thin wall aluminum and carbon frames are difficult to clamp safely by the top tube so the seat post is used as a stronger clamping location. Heavier wall steel and Ti frames can be safely clamped by the top tube.

  6. #6
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    OK I give up. How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?

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    Senior Member triplebutted's Avatar
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    Bike = 20 to 25 pounds or lighter
    Person = 100 to 300 pounds. Give or take.
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    pmt
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    You could just get a PRS-20 and then not worry about it at all.

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    Dog is my co-pilot 2manybikes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
    OK I give up. How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?
    Only until you need to put another bike in the bike stand.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
    How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?
    Squints: For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver!

    - The Sandlot

    Seriously though, the amount of time you have a bike clamped in a stand is irrelevant since the force on whatever part you are clamping is constant.

    Cheers
    Rex Kramer: Striker, listen, and you listen close: flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle, just a lot harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.

    - Airplane!

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
    I don't know about style, because I live in the suburbs.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaimat View Post
    How long can you keep a bike clamped into a stand by the seat tube?
    Oh boy, a contest! What's the prize for whoever does it longest?

  12. #12
    Who is Lance Armstrong?
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    Haha, I just wasn't sure, like if I were to keep it up for awhile, if that would harm it. I'm still pretty new to all this stuff, and I don't want to ruin my bike.

    Thanks for the advice everyone.
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    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaimat View Post
    Are my worries real or imaginary?
    Yes.

  14. #14
    Soma Lover
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    I've had a bike in the workstand for almost a year. Do I win?

    Quote Originally Posted by kaimat View Post
    I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?
    With a lever and cam type clamp like what is on the PCS-10, it's really easy to misjudge how tight it is set. Misjudge just once and the top tube or seat tube has gone from round to square and is beyond repair. (I rhyme!) You therefore clamp to the more easily and less expensively replaced seatpost. Screw type clamps are more of a headache to use but it's also easier to avoid overtightening them.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Cross Creek's Avatar
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    The PCS-10 clamp can be turned into (effectively) a screw type clamp by closing the cam (loosely) around the bike and using the adjustment crank to tighten.
    CC

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    Senior Member mkane77g's Avatar
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    Make sure theres enough seatpost inside the frame. I've seen instances where there wasn't enough and it made a big impression on the seat tube.

  17. #17
    Gluteus Enormus mmmdonuts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lverhagen View Post
    Squints: For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver! For-ev-ver!

    - The Sandlot

    Seriously though, the amount of time you have a bike clamped in a stand is irrelevant since the force on whatever part you are clamping is constant.

    Cheers
    But you don't want it to get pinch-t.
    Everybody's got plans... until they get hit.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cachehiker View Post
    You therefore clamp to the more easily and less expensively replaced seatpost.
    Or, better yet, you buy the cheapest aluminum or steel seatpost you can find in the right diameter and dedicate it to repair stand use.

  19. #19
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    The seat post is the best choice

    Quote Originally Posted by kaimat View Post
    I saw lots of pictures of people using their PCS-10 to grab their bikes by the top bar and not the seat post--is one way better than the other?

    Unless you`re dealing with a junker, the seatpost is the best choice for a number of reasons:

    (A) The finish on the seatpost is impossible to damage by clamping, The bicycle tubes often have decals that can be damaged by clamping, and particularly on new bikes, the paint can still be a little soft if right from the factory. Even if the paint ia a two part catalyst system.

    (B) The normal reason a bike is put in a work stand is - to work on it. And the most common tasks are tune-ups and flat tires.

    OK - so considering that most bikes have cable runs on the toptube, clamping the bike by the top tube would squeeze/trap the cables and impede or prevent optimal adjustment of both the brakes and the shifters. In some cases it might also prevent the rear brake from being easily disconnected to simply remove the rear wheel to fix a flat.

    Thats my take on things anyway.

  20. #20
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cachehiker View Post
    I've had a bike in the workstand for almost a year. Do I win?
    Paid by the hour, eh?

  21. #21
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Or, better yet, you buy the cheapest aluminum or steel seatpost you can find in the right diameter and dedicate it to repair stand use.
    That's what I used to do, but as my collection of bikes grew, and the variety of seat post diameters with it, I finally invested in the Park ISC-1.


  22. #22
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    That's what I used to do, but as my collection of bikes grew, and the variety of seat post diameters with it, I finally invested in the Park ISC-1.

    +1. If you work on a wide range of bikes, that Park tool is the way to go.

    All of my bikes take either a 27.2 or 31.6 mm seatpost so a cheap Kaloy posts in 27.2 and a low line Easton in 31.6 ran me a total of about $25. Asking at an LBS may get you a used seatpost from a trashed bike or one that was replaced by an upgrade at nearly no cost.

  23. #23
    pmt
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    That's what I used to do, but as my collection of bikes grew, and the variety of seat post diameters with it, I finally invested in the Park ISC-1.
    Take the seatpost out? Just to work on the bike? Really?

    Just get a PRS-20 type stand and be done with it. None of that seatpost malarkey needed.

  24. #24
    Soma Lover
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    Paid by the hour, eh?
    Nope. Classic Zaskar build just took a while to find all the right NOS parts.

    I had two other mountain bikes to take up the slack plus two commuters and a roadie.

    My current build has been in the workstand since October. It only needs cables and bar tape but there is nearly a foot of snow on the ground so I've been using my spare time to get a legacy computer going for all my old dos games.

  25. #25
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    After about a year I would take it down and inspect it for stress fractures, etc. If it looks OK, go ahead and clamp 'er back in there for another year.

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