Bobsled

I'm thinking of assembling my own bike. Let me state that the frame comes with an integrated headset and fork already installed. Also, looking to use the new 10sp Ultegra with the new BBs. What would be the trickiest part?

Fixed Up North

Cutting the cable housing. Seriously, everytime I've put together a bike or switched out handlebars I've found getting the cable housing the right length to be the biggest pain. I don't want it too long, but then I always fear I am cutting it too short. I guess that's why I love working on my fixed gear--no shifters, no brakes.

SAB

I am putting together a bike for the first time myself. The headset can be a chore, but that's already taken care of for you. I've found the only "tricky" part is to be sure and have all the right tools for the job. A good pair of cable cutters (Park and Pedros make some good ones for bike cable/housing) goes a long way, as does a complete set of standard allen/hex wrenches and screwdrivers. You will need special tools for the specific kind of cassette, bottom bracket, and cranks you will be installing. And cone wrenches for the brakes. These tools will be a little bit of investment at first, but you'll certainly use them again at some point. Take your time. Read instructions first. Measure your fork steerer at least 3 times before you cut it, and be sure it's the height you want. The Park Tool homepage has a decent section on maintenance which has basic instructions for almost everything and lists which tools are needed for what operation. By your wheels pre-built; I wouldn't try to lace-up your own wheels if you haven't done this before. A bike repair stand is nice to have, but you can use other things instead. I have an indoor bike rack that holds the frame horizontally at the top tube and also a trainer that helps to keep things steady.

Cycliste

Here is a list of Park Tools I find indispensable for compete bike building or maintenance:
PW-3 Pedal Wrench 15mm and 9/16
HCW-15 Head and Crank Sets Wrench 32mm & 36mm
CWP-6 Crank Wrench and Puller
CT-3 Screw Type Chain Tool
SCW-SET Shop Cone Wrench 13mm to 19mm (or save by buying only two, usually 15&19)
CCW-14R Cotterless Crank Wrench
SR-1 Chainwhip/Freewheel & Lockring Remover
BBT-2 Bottom Bracket tool (or adequate model to your BB)
CN-10 Cable and Housing Cutter
SW spoke wrench (check dimension you need)
nice to have for brakes adjustment but not indispensable is a BT-5 third hand.
standard tools:
A pair of adjustable wrenches, 8 to 11mm wrenches (though I like the CBW-1&4 I have), flat & philips screwdrivers, set of hex wrenches (note: Park make better ones than standard). I probably forget a few more and am sure other members will ad..
If you can afford it, the AK-32 Advanced Mechanic Tool Kit is a great kit (that's the one I have, paid ~200), but you can always just buy only what you need for <$100. A stand is OMI a must have, bought a PCS-9 for less than $70.

CycleFreakLS

Bondhus heads come in handy:

https://www.parktool.com/tools/AWS_8.shtml

Don Cook

I'm sure that good quality cable cutters are nice. However, after having built a bike and replaced cables on others, I've dicovered that a Dremel tool or an equivalant product cuts cables and housing cleaner and with greater precision that dedicated cable cutters. Somewhere else in this forum I'd read another post by a bike builder that had the same experience with a Dremel tool. Now days they can be picked up pretty cheap and used for all kinds of hobby stuff besides cutting cables and housing.

cyclingshane73

I agree. I use a Black & Decker rotary tool for all my housing cutting needs. It doens't crimp the housing and leaves a nice flat end. Its also really good for disc brake hydro hoses as well.

sydney

Yeah, life is hard without a good Dremel type tool. Aslo comes in handy for home dentistry.

roadfix

You took the words right outa my mouth....

CMcMahon

At least you're not riding a BMX bike with a gyro. Getting all four cables to be the correct length is huge pain. But, yes, I have to agree with you there; the only thing more annoying than that has to be installing a Chris King headset.

jeff williams

I would have a shop do the bb, crank arm installation. Naver had a problem with cables.-chop and file burrs. The headset is done- so other than doing the rear Der indexing, you should go smooth.

And your on BF- so you can get advice!

G-luck.

Retro Grouch 

Are you sure? Threadless forks typically come uncut and have to be sized to suit the frame and rider. Since the fork and stem hold everything together, you'll have to adjust the headset yourself. Cutting the fork is a big deal, not because it's so hard, but because it's an easy place to make an expensive mistake by cutting it too short.

Everything else, assuming you have all the right sized parts, is basically a straight bolt up. Adjusting the front derailleur, expecially if it's a triple, is probably the hardest part. If you're careful enough about getting it mounted on the seat tube properly for both height and angle, that's easy too.

ImprezaDrvr

As long as you're careful with all aspects of the build, you should be fine. No reason to have a shop do BB/crank installation unless you don't want to buy the tools. I might suggest picking up a torque wrench as well, though. If you don't want to pony up a bunch of money for one right now you can get a relatively inexpensive one at an auto parts store. Or go for a nice digital one from Sears. Either way, they come in handy.

sydney

Maybe handy, maybe a needless PITA, but certanly not necessary to build a bike.

Bobsled

Thanks. Those are all good points, specially the cable housing lengths. Easy to mess up on.

Cycliste

Yes, but when it comes to calculate the right length for housing, common sense prevails, you want the cable to circulate as freely as possible and as the same time avoid the housing to get on the way. Maybe just look at some new bikes in shops and take note of lengths, don't forget to use ferrules and endings.

Retro Grouch 

I've made plenty of other stupid mistakes in my time, but I've never had trouble with cable housing lengths.

After I get everything else bolted on and adjusted and ready to go, I just trial fit the cable housing to the levers and turn the handlebar until it hits the frame. That's it! It's better for the housing to be a little too long than ANY too short.

I think that the key might be making sure the handlebars are at the right height, etc. before trying to cable the bike. If it's for a personal bike, I measure one of my others and make sure that everything fits the same. If the bike is for somebody else, I leave the housings a couple of inches long to allow for a little adjustment range.

fishcake

i agree a good pair of cutters to cut cables and outer covers but a guarreneted 100% alternative for cutting cables precisly is: any old pair of pliers,snips etc and a hammer of any variety.The procedure is to measure cable etc place in between wire cutter part of pliers (do not squeeze together) but hold securly,
place and hold pliers on the floor(the edge of a concrete step is best) and now for the technical bit (ha ha)hit the pliers etc sharply and precisly once (any more than one hit and it will just flatten) and abracadabra the cable ect is cut. watch out though u will find the shorter length of cable will fire off like a bullet never
to be seen again

Ya Tu Sabes

Don't forget beer. No major bike work can be completed properly without beer on hand.

Matt Gaunt

I'm doing exactly the same buddy but my mate happens to be a bike dealer! I've got Ultegra 10s on order too. What frame are you looking at? Trickiest part for me is waiting to ride the thing!

Astra

Bobsled, if you're technically minded/practical, bike building isn't rocket science. You need to do a bit of research beforehand for stuff like setting the travel stops on the derailleurs etc but there is plenty of help online.

You will also need some specialist tools ie a BB installation tool which are quite cheap and can be used with a standard square drive wrench. Good cable cutters are sooooo nice to own, I swear by my Park proffesional cutters. Having said that, alot of jobs on a bike require nothing more exotic than a good set of allen keys ie controls, brakes, seats and seatposts etc. Another nice thing to own is a pedal wrench; pedals do generally have a 6mm allen key fitting on the inside but I find it hard to get them on tight enough with an allen key.

One bit of advice I'd give you is to coat every thread on your bike with copper grease, especially the BB threads. This will prevent parts sticking together through galvanic corrosion if they get wet (living in England EVERYTHING gets wet, very regularly).

Anyhow, good luck and let us know how you get on .

ImprezaDrvr

Hence "handy" and not "vital".