losmark

I have a set of 2007 Magura HS33 and a new set of factory steel braided lines. I brought the whole lot to a decent LBS and they wouldn't touch it. They felt like the fittings on the new lines (and crossovers) wouldn't fit the brakes. I've been looking around for a decent tutorial or instructions online without any luck. I found one trials specific discussion thread with this somewhat cryptic hint

"yes it will fit , remove all hoses,first fit s/s short hose small thread, screw in where bleed screw was cross over fit other end lge thread opp ,the 1 next to lge thread go to brakelever , the 1 left fit bleed screw after bleeding ,easy after 1 night of think, nice bit off kit"

It seems as if the new crossover lines are terminated in an M8 fitting on one end with an M6 on the other. The brakes have both M8 and M6 ports. If I'm guessing right I'd take one M6 and M8 for crossover. Move the bleed screw to an unused port and screw the brake line into the last empty port.

Has anyone done this successfully? I'm hesitant to pull the whole system apart without a better idea how to proceed. I've got the Magura mini service kit on order to fill and bleed the new lines once in. I'd be happy to hear any advice on the subject.

Thanks for reading, Mark.

Burton

No idea but I`m interested in those brakes myself so checked out the owners manual on the Magura site. Mentioned the stainless lines but made no references to any special installation procedure so my assumption was that the fittings were identical to the fittings on the regular brakelines. Are you saying they`re different?

fietsbob

I've Only done hose swapping so far with the standard tubing .
raised the bars, so a new rear set was done up. and the old rear became modified,
and moved up front ..

I think a Shimano's index housing friendly cutter
will smoothly cut thru the braided sheath ..

losmark

The braided lines do use different sized fittings. The crossover has an M6 and M8 fitting and seems to require that you move the bleed screw. The shop I took it to held onto them for a loooong time and told me they contacted Magura and still couldn't figure it out.

losmark

The kit from Magura is already cut to length and has fittings on. I'll keep this in mind in case I have to shorten the rear line, thanks.

BCRider

It sounds like the main issue is that the bleed screw needs to move to make room for one of the fittings. As long as the new home for the bleed screw is the correct size and you can see how the various size fittings go into place all should be well. After all, if this is a Magura kit intended for the HS33's I'd assume that someone down the line actually proved that it would work before the kits were offered for sale.

By the way, what are you looking to gain from this kit? The actual steel braiding on any brake line is only for looks and abrasion protection and does nothing at all for holding in the pressure or avoiding line stretch. The pressure is held in the line by the plastic hose inside the braiding and it is the quality, wall thickness and type of plastic that determines how the lever will feel. So in the end you may or may not feel any difference at the lever. If reports on this line kit all say that it is better than that'll be due to the nature of the core tubing itself.

Burton

Good post and just about what I`m gathering myself.

The Magura makes absolutely no performance claims about the Stainless steel lines. It does describe them as `looking cool`.

fietsbob

Each slave cylinder has 2 threaded holes, 1 has the supply from the master,
and the crossover.
the other takes the crossover and has the bleed screw.
I don't understand the issue ?.
drain the whole system,
and put it in the syringe in the maintainence kit .
exchange the parts and fill it back up ..

The Standard stuff seems Fine , to me, but YMMV.

losmark

Full disclosure - I bought the new lines more or less strictly on appearance. The standard setup is stopping the bike better than any other brakeset I've used. I've just had the frame/fork/handlebars powdercoated after a year + of riding the mostly dialed-in new setup. Now it's time for the (hopefully) final touches. New steel lines and rounding up period correct frame/tubing decals.

Thanks for all the responses here.


Mark.