Need Help
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Need Help
Hello All!
I have a Jamis Citizen 2 and I noticed my saddle keeps on tilting back and the bolt needs to be tightened after a 20-minute ride. I tried taking it apart and cleaning it and reinstalling it but I think I need a whole new 1 bolt saddle clamp. No matter how much I tighten it -- it only holds for 20 mins until it slips again. I am completely lost on what to do. I cannot tighten the bolt anymore since I ended up striping the head of the bolt. If anyone can just send me the link of what I need to purchase. I would really appreciate it.
I have a Jamis Citizen 2 and I noticed my saddle keeps on tilting back and the bolt needs to be tightened after a 20-minute ride. I tried taking it apart and cleaning it and reinstalling it but I think I need a whole new 1 bolt saddle clamp. No matter how much I tighten it -- it only holds for 20 mins until it slips again. I am completely lost on what to do. I cannot tighten the bolt anymore since I ended up striping the head of the bolt. If anyone can just send me the link of what I need to purchase. I would really appreciate it.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pioneer Valley
Posts: 881
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 281 Post(s)
Liked 640 Times
in
329 Posts
Without seeing it, I’d guess the aluminum clamp at the top of the seatpost has deformed and will not clamp tightly any more. Often happens if it’s ridden loose. You can try and find replacement clamp hardware or you might just have to replace the seatpost.
Last edited by bboy314; 02-19-22 at 05:51 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,822
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 669 Post(s)
Liked 725 Times
in
422 Posts
Ditto the above. Take it apart, maybe you'll fine some serrations are worn, maybe something got bent out of shape, like two curved surfaces no longer match. Some things can be fixed in a vise with a hammer (be very careful bending aluminum), some things can be cleaned with a file. Maybe the bolt threads are galled and aren't really tightening as much as you think.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,600
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18320 Post(s)
Liked 4,489 Times
in
3,338 Posts
#7
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,935
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3571 Post(s)
Liked 3,367 Times
in
1,916 Posts
I'd take it apart and look for damaged threads on the bolt and nut piece. If they're damaged, replace them; if they're intact, try Loctite.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,600
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18320 Post(s)
Liked 4,489 Times
in
3,338 Posts
Does that seatpost have springs, or a quick adjustment drop?
Do you need the seatpost to have springs?
I'd remove the seatpost, and check to see if it is marked with a size, somewhere near the top of where the post goes into the seat tube.
Is it marked with 27.2? Another number?
I'd probably look for a replacement post that has a different attachment method. Many of the 2-bolt posts are zero offset. Will that work?
Also, have you been having issues with the seatpost slipping down in the seat tube?
I've ridden a road bike for most of my life. One thing I am is very careful about what I run over. Heavier bikes are more forgiving with running over stuff, but it is a good idea to "unweight" the seat when you have a big bump. So, stand up a bit and using the legs as shock absorbers.
Do you need the seatpost to have springs?
I'd remove the seatpost, and check to see if it is marked with a size, somewhere near the top of where the post goes into the seat tube.
Is it marked with 27.2? Another number?
I'd probably look for a replacement post that has a different attachment method. Many of the 2-bolt posts are zero offset. Will that work?
Also, have you been having issues with the seatpost slipping down in the seat tube?
I've ridden a road bike for most of my life. One thing I am is very careful about what I run over. Heavier bikes are more forgiving with running over stuff, but it is a good idea to "unweight" the seat when you have a big bump. So, stand up a bit and using the legs as shock absorbers.
#12
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,278
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4252 Post(s)
Liked 3,866 Times
in
2,579 Posts
I would just replace the thing, it was a pretty cheap seatpost to start with and a poor design in general (think pogo stick). If you are looking for more comfort I would look at the Kinekt seatpost which is tunable and isolates you from vibrations and bumps. If you are just looking for a cheap post head down to your local shop and they can order you a cheap but decent enough 2 bolt post which will help in the long term, or if they have one they can sell you one right then and there. 2 bolts are going to give you a bit more adjustability and reliability.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,822
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 669 Post(s)
Liked 725 Times
in
422 Posts
I agree with replacing the seat post. I almost always get rid of the shock type when they come into the non-profit shop. Every one is loose.
Likes For andrewclaus:
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: GMT-5
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 462 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
247 Posts
Serrations on the clamps is what keeps a saddle from nosing around, the screw only needs to be snug to do its job.
If you feel you really need to tighten that screw beyond torque specs, that's a sign to get a new seatpost.
Seaposts are really inexpensive. The elastomers in your saddle should be enough without the need of a suspension seatpost, which are also very heavy.
If you feel you really need to tighten that screw beyond torque specs, that's a sign to get a new seatpost.
Seaposts are really inexpensive. The elastomers in your saddle should be enough without the need of a suspension seatpost, which are also very heavy.