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  1. #1
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    Dia Compe 960 Canti (Trek 531 Touring) Compatability

    Hi all- I've been browsing here for years and it appears I finally have a question that hasn't already been answered. I have an 84 Trek 620 that is begging for new cantilever breaks after riding it all winter... I picked up one set of Tektro CR720s on good bang-for-the-buck reviews from others (and assuming by the P/N that this were MADE for old trek tourers) and they did not fit at all. Specifically the shoes could not go low enough to hit my 27" rims and the springs did not engage at all.

    So my question is can anyone give me a tip on some modern (preferably not NOS) brakes that would match a set of Dia Compe 960 cantis? From the 20+ year old sutherlands manual I can get my heands on the 960 dimensions are as follows:

    Pivot to Brake Shoe Clamp Bolt Hole (mm): 23
    Pivot to Cable attachment: 40

    Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

  2. #2
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    Help!

  3. #3
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    For what it's worth, picked up a pair of Dia Compe 983s on ebay this week and they fit like a charm--also use single ended straddle cables that anchor to the right side, which the 960s don't, and use eccentric mounts that allow for some height/width adjustment. 981s are compatible as well.

  4. #4
    babylon by bike Standalone's Avatar
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    My 620:


    Oryx worked on the rear.





    Not the front.




    I forget what these were shimano something or others-- and the back's out from shovelling 38" of Nemo snow, so can't check for you... wait, here they are on velo base...

    http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...117&AbsPos=231

    but they worked...





    You can see that they're at different angles, though... it was a last minute jerry rigged build







    They stopped well and kept me safe-- even this novice on his first CX race....

    Your LBS should have an old box full of these early mid '90's shimano Deore XT M730 series around. They're simple and adjustable. You said no "NOS." Well, these are certainly not NOS!!
    Last edited by Standalone; 02-14-13 at 08:48 AM.
    The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley

  5. #5
    Senior Member IthaDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Standalone View Post
    My 620:
    Are you sure those are 27" rims? I know touring bikes have long chainstays, but the gap between the tire and the seattube looks like you're runnning 700c wheels. The difference it negligible (8mm in diameter), but it does mean you need the pads to be 4mm lower than if they were 27" rims. I don't really doubt you that they're 27", and the perforated braking surface supports this, but it just looks like the wheels are little undersized, and the angle of the pads backs that up.

    • You're kind of stuck at the moment, as I see it, you have three options-
    1) you can take the conical washers out from between the brake pad itself and the cantilever arm and hope they hit square and are toed (try it, you might get lucky)
    2) you can get new cantilever brakes
    3) you can use a wheelset that is built with a narrower rim so the cantilever arm has more swing before the pads contact the rim.

    Edit: somehow when I clicked on this thread, this post was what looked like the first post. Sorry, looks like you have it sorted anyway. I typed it out, so I'm going to keep the post, maybe someone will find it useful. *shrug*

    Edit 2: This time of year is BRUTAL for zombie threads.

    Shimano : Click :: Campy :: Snap :: SRAM : Bang

  6. #6
    babylon by bike Standalone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IthaDan View Post
    Are you sure those are 27" rims? I know touring bikes have long chainstays, but the gap between the tire and the seattube looks like you're runnning 700c wheels. The difference it negligible (8mm in diameter), but it does mean you need the pads to be 4mm lower than if they were 27" rims. I don't really doubt you that they're 27", and the perforated braking surface supports this, but it just looks like the wheels are little undersized, and the angle of the pads backs that up.
    I didn't see the '11 - '13 jump, either. But it was the OP who resurrected it...

    Those are 27" CR18 rims in the final build shot and some of the size testing photos. With 27" CX tires! The steel rim photo was a sizing test using an old rim from a trash-pickup Botteccia I had on hand to check things out before investing in parts & wheels. The 620 of that year had an intensely long CS. I think it was 46cm to the 720's 47cm.

    It was decidedly not fast on the CX course two autumns ago, but I can't really blame the bike!

    Edit: so the upshot is, 620's are REALLY not suitable for 700c/622 conversion, as the posts are already kind of at the limit for 27"/630 wheels of any appreciable width.
    The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley

  7. #7
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Expensive, but Pauls has a V brake that uses a round arm,
    and the mount for the pad slides up or down the round arm until
    clamped in place.

    currently about $140, each brake http://www.paulcomp.com/motobmx.html

    made in California USA

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