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  1. #1
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    Help again regarding VINTAGE BOTTOM BRACKET - AXEL - WHICH ONE?

    http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...2&d=1295195658

    This is my 70s Falcon Earnie Clements I'm restoring.

    Finally bought some new ali cranks and now problem with axel.

    It appears that one one side there is not enough sticking out, cause when I tighten whichever side is shortest, it presses to tight on the BB bearing cup and does not turn as it's metal on metal on the outside.

    But one side seems ok....

    I need this amount of room on each side.... There's a weird plastic tube inside which seems to be for the bearings to roll on (by sugino) but I do not have a pin tool for the other cup (the pin hole cup is on the drive side)..

    Is this the one I need??

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3P-CYCLE-BIKE-...item33634e4db7

    Please let me know your thoughts.

  2. #2
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I need this amount of room on each side...
    that in Furlongs or kilometers? "this" is not a standard unit of measure.

    Back away from the keyboard, and take your project to a proper bike shop.
    they will be able to see 1st hand what you have, and measure the parts involved, and suggest
    an appropriate length BB assembly .
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-30-11 at 11:45 AM.

  3. #3
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    The problem is most bike shops don't deal in these parts, it's why I am buying from ebay/china.

    I know it's a pretty easy thing so don't need to take it to a bike shop....

    All's I need to know is if anyone who has dealt with this sort of thing before, would the suggested crank (2nd link) be OK for this??? Or do I need to try and squeeze that BB CUP (one with two pin holes) in a little bit????

  4. #4
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    There could be a few things wrong, but I suspect that your new crank is ISO taper and your old spindle is JIS taper (or vice versa). Basically, the spindle shoves too far into the crank's square hole. So, getting yourself the right spindle will fix it. Make sure to get the same length with the correct taper- there are a bunch of different lengths and offset of spindles available.

    No need to remove the fixed cup- just install the bearings from the other side using grease to hold them in place, then insert the spindle, then put the plastic accordian thing in (protects the bearings from crud and water coming down the seat tube), then put back the adjustable cup.

  5. #5
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    On second thought, you need to measure the BB width- it looks like the spindle is way too short for that BB shell. Probably the best option is to just buy the right sized cartridge BB. The pin tool won't work for the fixed cup- the pins would shear off before it would turn. Sheldon Brown has a good method for removing fixed cups using a large bolt and a two-foot cheater bar... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

  6. #6
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Are you using the original BB cups and spindle with a new crank? If so, you may be encountering JIS/ISO incompatibility: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html

    If this is the case, you can replace the spindle with a new JIS spindle, but it may take some experimenting to find one that works. Another option would be to replace the BB parts with a new cartridge unit known to work with your selected cranks.

    And BTW, the plastic sleeve you found is to keep contamination out of the bearings.

  7. #7
    SE Wis dedhed's Avatar
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    Those axles are often not symetrical - is it in backwards?
    '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400

  8. #8
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Many cranks require a longer right side than a left side,
    More so if the cranks have straight arms .


    need to measure the parts involved .. different subtile variations in parts .

    real Data missing on many of these queries .
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-29-11 at 06:47 PM.

  9. #9
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Its a spindle, not an axle. New crankset? Need to get the matching bottom bracket to go with it. Bottom brackets are matched to the crankset, rather than the bike (of course, the threading has to be right). You should be able to do a search and find out what size bb you need for that new crank.


    Bottom brackets can be pretty cheap. +1 Go with a properly sized cartridge bb.

  10. #10
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    Yeah guys I think it is the whole ISO and JIS thing.

    I have switched the spindle around, and as guessed it just becomes too short on one side. So I think I need a larger spindle ( equal on both sides )

    I found this, will it work???

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

  11. #11
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    I know you say it's all relative..... BB and spindle need matching etc.

  12. #12
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Crank particulars, and BB spindle length are the match challenge ,
    the JIS/ ISO taper is part of it.

  13. #13
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrkano View Post
    Yeah guys I think it is the whole ISO and JIS thing.

    I have switched the spindle around, and as guessed it just becomes too short on one side. So I think I need a larger spindle ( equal on both sides )

    I found this, will it work???

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
    You've posted a 3P and a 3S spindle. Without knowing the exact one that you have now, there's no way to guess as to what would actually work on your bike. Measure the following:

    1. overall length of spindle from end-to-end
    2. right length of spindle from bearing-track to outer end
    3. left length of spindle from bearing-track to other end

    Only with those three pieces of data can anyone make a guess over the internet if a replacement spindle of a certain dimension would work for your bike. Also the unknown condition of the cups suggests buying a complete cartridge-BB may be your best option.

    BTW, the plastic tube keeps debris falling down the seat-tube from contaminating your BB-bearings.
    Last edited by DannoXYZ; 03-30-11 at 11:07 PM.

  14. #14
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    1. overall length of spindle from end-to-end
    2. right length of spindle from bearing-track to outer end
    3. left length of spindle from bearing-track to other end
    and if you are converting from a solid, nut fixed type,
    to a hollow, bolt fixed type ,
    note the end of the taper, minus the threads that the nut screws onto.
    that is a more useful overall length comparison.

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