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  1. #1
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    Replacing Brake and Cable

    I'm wanting to replace the brakes on my vintage peugeot reynolds racer from the old single-pivot brakes to some modern, lighter and more powerful dual-pivots.

    I've found this for cheap: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=27806

    I also want to replace the brake cable for smoother operation. Will this cable set work?: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=47773

    It says its a SLR cantilever cable set but I can't find any actual brakes by that name. Is there a reason why it wont work with the brakes listed above?

    I've checked my brake levers and the current cable ends (the metal thingy on on end of the inner cables) looks the same.

    If it wont work can anyone suggest a better (cheap) cable set...
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Yes

    If you want alternatives, look for Clarks cables or Jagwire, but the cost will be similar

  3. #3
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    I'd suggest "neither".

    First off you need to measure from the caliper mounting bolt down to the middle of the braking surface. If that measurement exceeds the 49mm reach of the caliper you found then you can't use that caliper. You need to find a caliper with a longer reach instead that will fit. And at 49mm for the Sora you found it implies that it is intended to fit onto the newer tight fitting frames and forks of the present generation of road bikes where the frames fit closely to the wheels. Vintage road bikes generally had a lot more room around the wheels and tires and called for a longer reach of caliper. But if it turns out that your frame and wheels are within the 49mm reach of the Sora caliper then yes, it would be worth buying.


    As for cables I would not buy a set or separates unless it has the phrase or words "slick", *Slic" or "smooth drawn" or something similar to indicate that the cables were drawn or ground down to produce a nice smooth outer surface. The difference over a smooth drawn cable has over a regular cable has to be felt to be believed. It is well worth emailing them or phoneing them and asking which sets or individual cables actually have such a surface on them. If none do then shop elsewhere. It's worth it. It may be that you are better off shopping from your local bike shop in this case. You can run a finger over the cable and know instantly if they are smooth drawn or ground finish or not. It's that noticable.

    And because things happen to cables it's worth buying them separate so you can get a spare or two and then buy the housing and end ferrules separate as well. Most local shops sell it off a bulk roll by the foot or meter. You'll want to measure all the segments on your bike presently and add them up to find out how much you need and how many ferrules to get.

    And of course you need a way to cut and dress the ends of the housings. For a lot of us this means using a set of big side cutters and a file to dress down the crushing and square up the end. Making up a V block from wood or a bit of angle iron and clamping it to the bench so that you can hold the housing in the V so it just sticks up a little and file it works well. Or if you have a grinder you can dress the ends with a light touch on the wheel followed by an awl or scriber to open up the melted inner plastic tube from the heat.

    So all in all I'd say you need to do just a little more homework on your bike by measuring some things and then go shopping again.

    If you need longer reach calipers as I suspect you will Tektro makes a whole line of them. And they are very nicely made to boot.

    There's two different styles of cable ends that fit road bike levers or mountain bike levers. "Cantilever" brakes are a mountain bike style for the most part although they show up on cyclocross bikes as well these days. But that means when it says "SLR Cantilever brakes" it implies that the ends are the ones to fit into mountain bike levers.

    If you want to see pictures and read more about the job you're wanting to do look at the brake section at www.parktool.com/repair .
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  4. #4
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    The cables which miocene has suggested are high quality Shimano Road cables, unless you get Dura Ace cables, these are as good as you can get; and are the correct end fitting.

    For the calipers fitting the bike, this was not asked as to if they yould fit, so the assumtion has to be that he as already measured and has selected the correct ones required.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Fenway's Avatar
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    I'd suggest looking on E-bay or checking in C&V to see if anyone has a part of MAFAC Racers in good condition for sale. Those dual pivot calipers should fit your Peugeot and they are just as good if not better than most inexpensive dual pivot caliper brakes today. Of course dealing with the straddle wire is a pain, but hey your bike is French, so that's normal.

  6. #6
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Mafac racer centerpull brakes would be my suggestion , they are dual pivot,
    In the old style, pulling up in the center , and work excellently .
    Plain post brake shoes have a rebirth in CycloCross racing ,
    so You can find some very good brake pads.

    Brevet competitive types are getting custom frames built now,
    that use a direct braze on to fit the Mafac Brakes ..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-30-11 at 03:19 PM.

  7. #7
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    Hey thanks for all the advice.

    Read a bit about the mafacs. They sound good but I think I'd rather stick with a new sidepull brake.

    You can see a couple of pics on another thread I started here: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-Peugeot-Racer

    I haven't measured the reach distance but it doesn't look more than 5cm, which I assume more modern calipers can cope with. Or there are these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=34704 which offer 57mm drop.

    Would it be difficult to fit them + new cable? I have a leatherman tool (with wire cutters, file, pliers etc), an allen key set, various spanners and screwdrivers etc.

  8. #8
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    Those R450's are nice, for installing, you really want a proper cable cutting tool, like the ones here http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/S...CategoryIDs=87

    a Leatherman / pliers will not give a sharp enough cut for this, but can be used for finishing & the cable end cap. The only other things you will need are allen keys

  9. #9
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    47 to "about 50mm's" is miles apart. There's no "that's about right" when it comes to brake reach. You need to measure what you have to a closer degree than that.

    Looking at the cables again I see that the "cantilever" bit threw me off the scent. Yes, those are certainly the correct ends for road levers. But there's still no mention of smooth drawn or similar. I would want to confirm that they are indeed smooth drawn or smooth finished or some such thing to confirm that they are similar to the Jagwire cables that I'm familiar with or no sale. For example after checking I see that Jagwire, a very common dealer over here, has "Hyper" model slick cables in both raw stainless and teflon coated. I'd take either along with some Jagwire bulk housing over the Shimano cable kit unless the Shimano kit can be confirmed as having similar inner cables. The smooth drawn finish is the biggest advantage to hit cable operated systems since the invention of the wheel and I'd take raw smooth drawn stainless over teflon coated but NON smooth drawn cables. I had a set of the early regular but teflon coated cables and I found that smooth drawn non coated was nicer a feel. It really is that big a deal and worth hunting them down.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  10. #10
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    OK so I invested in some Shimano R450 calipers and some quality sram cables. Managed to install the lot with the help of a hack-saw and various other tools. The bike now stops like a beast and braking is about 10 times lighter than it was and braking from the hoods is a breeze.

    Next upgrade: probably the real deraileur.







    Last edited by miocene; 04-01-11 at 01:12 PM. Reason: extra pic

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