Crankset loose/wiggling ?
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Crankset loose/wiggling ?
I recently took off my old crankset on my road bike conversion.
I used the crank extractor to remove it (This is my first time ever messing around with cranks)
Then I slipped in the new track cranks.
I used a rubber mallet to smack it in as far as it went, then tightened it down as much as I could.
It rides fine, but whenever I track stand of balance myself I see the right side of the crank wiggle back and forth...
Should I be worried? >_>
Help.
I used the crank extractor to remove it (This is my first time ever messing around with cranks)
Then I slipped in the new track cranks.
I used a rubber mallet to smack it in as far as it went, then tightened it down as much as I could.
It rides fine, but whenever I track stand of balance myself I see the right side of the crank wiggle back and forth...
Should I be worried? >_>
Help.
#2
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I recently took off my old crankset on my road bike conversion.
I used the crank extractor to remove it (This is my first time ever messing around with cranks)
Then I slipped in the new track cranks.
I used a rubber mallet to smack it in as far as it went, then tightened it down as much as I could.
It rides fine, but whenever I track stand of balance myself I see the right side of the crank wiggle back and forth...
Should I be worried? >_>
Help.
I used the crank extractor to remove it (This is my first time ever messing around with cranks)
Then I slipped in the new track cranks.
I used a rubber mallet to smack it in as far as it went, then tightened it down as much as I could.
It rides fine, but whenever I track stand of balance myself I see the right side of the crank wiggle back and forth...
Should I be worried? >_>
Help.
But if it spins true you've dodged that bullet and it's probably OK. It's normal for chainrings to appear to flex when the cranks are heavily loaded. The key is the difference between flex and wobble, so it's up to you to determine which it is.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Make sure and check the nut that holds the crank arm on. I had an older fixed gear bike that had the same sort of issues; one part of the problem was that the bike needed a new bottom bracket (unsealed bb cartridges can cause slippage), but the main problem was that the nut threads for the crank connection was stripped. The nut would continually try and work itself off, and if you weren't careful, the entire crank would fall off under stress. You may have stripped out the threads by mashing on the crank with the mallet, so you might want to pull the cranks again for an inspection..
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This is my first time installing a crank.
I saw that there was a big gap between the frame and crank so I thought maybe I should hit it in more?
Sorry. I try my best to save money .__.
I saw that there was a big gap between the frame and crank so I thought maybe I should hit it in more?
Sorry. I try my best to save money .__.
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IMO, you should make sure the crank bolts are tightened properly before you ride the bike much more. They require about 30 foot-pounds of torque- which is quite a lot if you don't have a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, go to a shop that has one and make sure the bolts are tightened to spec. More cranks are ruined by inadequate torque than by any other cause.
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I have no idea what possessed you to use a mallet to install a crank. That's a good way to have the end of the spindle shave the arm and make a crank wobble.
But if it spins true you've dodged that bullet and it's probably OK. It's normal for chainrings to appear to flex when the cranks are heavily loaded. The key is the difference between flex and wobble, so it's up to you to determine which it is.
But if it spins true you've dodged that bullet and it's probably OK. It's normal for chainrings to appear to flex when the cranks are heavily loaded. The key is the difference between flex and wobble, so it's up to you to determine which it is.
On the other hand, if the crankset itself is wobbling, pandita didn't dodge anything. Wobbling cranksets quickly become damaged cranksets...especially if they are square taper.
I recently took off my old crankset on my road bike conversion.
I used the crank extractor to remove it (This is my first time ever messing around with cranks)
Then I slipped in the new track cranks.
I used a rubber mallet to smack it in as far as it went, then tightened it down as much as I could.
It rides fine, but whenever I track stand of balance myself I see the right side of the crank wiggle back and forth...
Should I be worried? >_>
Help.
I used the crank extractor to remove it (This is my first time ever messing around with cranks)
Then I slipped in the new track cranks.
I used a rubber mallet to smack it in as far as it went, then tightened it down as much as I could.
It rides fine, but whenever I track stand of balance myself I see the right side of the crank wiggle back and forth...
Should I be worried? >_>
Help.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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+1 Bottom bracket taper may not match crankset. If so, all the beating on it with a mallet of your choice won't make it fit. Time to head to a bike shop.
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lukeC
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06-13-10 07:31 AM