Park Tools has a new repair stand mounted truing stand.
But since they didn't make it universal for all stands I decided to take a look at my stand and see what I could come up with. So here is what I have.
Stand: Spin Doctor pro G3
With this I figure I can take apart the back side of the top of the stand and attach a bit of metal in a U shape off of it. Space it enough to allow me to mount one side of the wheel to that. Then use these (http://www.griptwist.com/Home.page) and some other bits to set up the gauge for truing. I have a pretty good eye so I don't think I would need to mount a dial gauge or anything like that. I should be able to check round and true with this setup. Any suggestions or ideas on exact configuration? Specifically I am looking for recommendations for how thick and big to make the wheel mount. Don't want it to bend or move while I'm Truing. I could add support just not sure if it would be needed.
This really doesn't answer your question but, since you mentioned the TS-25 truing stand...has anybody used this stand? Obviously, you wouldn't open a bike shop with this, but is it good enough for occasional home bike mechanic use? Or, is it just another piece of junk?
for me its all or nothing. true the wheel on the bike with zip tie indicator or other device or just go all out and get the park ts 2.2 or ts2
don't try this at home.
I have the older version of the Minoura truing stand
Originally Posted by zzMike
The older version:
The two legs are geared together inside the base, so they pretty much stay centered. The two feeler arms are friction fitted, and I can move them just a fraction of a mm if needed. I want to move the feeler in until it's just touching the top of the worst deflection in the brake track.
I wouldn't like a one-sided truing stand. I will move the feelers in and determine which side has the largest outward movement, then fix that. I can hear the high spots scraping the feeler as the wheel turns. Often, the other side now has the biggest remaining section. It's very hard to work with dips instead of bumps.
To center the wheel, there are markings on the bottom gauge, but I like to mark the feeler arm with a marker pen when the wheel seems to be done, then flip the wheel over and verify the marker hasn't moved. (I don't have a wheel dishing tool). I wouldn't like the newer Minoura arms as much. It appears the feeler arms are geared and are self-centering. I like to work on just one side at a time, so that's not the best for me.
See the user reviews at Nashbar. It comes with a calibration "T" to get the feeler arms centered before starting. So I might like this one if I tried it.
Last edited by rm -rf; 04-17-11 at 07:12 AM.
The Left Coast, USA
If you are working on a stand anyway, why wouldn't you true the wheel on the bike? Makes no sense unless you true unmounted wheels.
I have the ultimate TRS-80R (one side stand) and am very happy with it.
I have a bike that is stored at another location. I don't want to have to bring it home any time I need to work on the wheels. Plus I do have a second set of wheels for it so I will most likely be truing unmounted.
I get your preference but don't really see it as an issue. I can always flip the wheel and see which side is worse.
I was looking at a free standing unit but I don't really want to pay for one and definitely not the TS monster.
I use an exact truing stand. Works very well and I can flip the wheel around to check the dish too