Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    Senior Member vladuz976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shibuya, Tokyo
    My Bikes
    Cannondale Bad Boy Disc, Cinelli Gazzetta custom
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Hub not rolling smoothly

    I changed the shaft of a Dura-Ace 7600 hub.
    After putting it back together, it made some noise when rolling and was noticeably less smooth.
    It's an open bearing hub, so it's possible some dirt got inside.
    I opened it up again and cleaned out the hub and re-greased completely. It was still not much better. I then exchanged all balls and greased again with dura-ace grease.
    The noise is gone now, but compared to my front wheel it doesn't run quite as smooth anymore. When holding it in your hands and turning the wheel you can feel a tiny unevenness somewhere.
    It's possible that the hub itself has some pits from the dirt that got in? I couldn't see any with my bare eyes however.

    I am trying to find out if using the wheel like this will make the problem worse.
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Veteran Bastard Scrodzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    My Bikes
    EAI Bare Knuckle / Leader 725 / 1975 Raleigh Professional Track
    Posts
    23,815
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    Are your cones too tight?

  3. #3
    Senior Member vladuz976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shibuya, Tokyo
    My Bikes
    Cannondale Bad Boy Disc, Cinelli Gazzetta custom
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I played around a lot adjusting those. I got it to a point where noise is almost gone. It does roll ok, but not perfectly smooth like the front one.

  4. #4
    Senior Member vw addict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    East coast
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac Expert, Cannondale R700, Specialized Langster, Iron Horse Hollowpoint Team, Schwinn Homegrown
    Posts
    2,678
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    sounds like you may have pitted it. I doubt you'll notice it when riding though, so I wouldn't worry too much. If you cleaned everything out good and put in fresh grease you really aren't going to make it worse by riding.
    Quote Originally Posted by cc700 View Post
    there is a difference though because that extra weight will directly correlate with how many chicks huff your dongus.

  5. #5
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    6,114
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  6. #6
    Senior Member rustybrown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    DeSouf
    Posts
    2,137
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would take out the axle, degrease it and polish the races.

    And then put it back together properly. It may take a while with subtle adjustments to get it right.

  7. #7
    Senior Member vladuz976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shibuya, Tokyo
    My Bikes
    Cannondale Bad Boy Disc, Cinelli Gazzetta custom
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    How can I examine the cups for pitting other than with the bare eye?
    In some youtube tutorials they use a sharp pencil to trace the surface and try to feel for any unevenness.
    Does anybody have experience with that? Any suggestions?

  8. #8
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    6,114
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Unless they are visibly pitted they're probably fine. I've reassembled hubs with some pitting and still been able to get them to spin smoothly. Either you have dirt in there, (unlikely after all your cleaning) or you're adjusting the cones too tight. It's a very precise adjustment, it takes always takes me a few tries to get it just right.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  9. #9
    Senior Member vladuz976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shibuya, Tokyo
    My Bikes
    Cannondale Bad Boy Disc, Cinelli Gazzetta custom
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I was working with one cone wrench and two adjustable socket wrenches. I think I'll go and invest some money in two 14mm cone wrenches and a dedicated 18mm wrench for the lock nut. (after reading sheldon's article ...)
    I'll try to play around a bit more with the cone adjustments, see if I can get it any smoother.
    Thanks for all your help.

  10. #10
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    38,485
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Remember QR skewer compresses the axle, when you close the lever,
    and makes the adjustment tighter than it was.

    Pro team mechanic's setup was a spare set of dropouts
    just like on the Bikes, .. to get that right.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    3,942
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Don't worry about how it feels in your hand. There should be a slight amount of play in the bearing adjustment that goes away when the quick release is closed.

  12. #12
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Oz
    My Bikes
    copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
    Posts
    6,794
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
    Unless they are visibly pitted they're probably fine. I've reassembled hubs with some pitting and still been able to get them to spin smoothly. Either you have dirt in there, (unlikely after all your cleaning) or you're adjusting the cones too tight. It's a very precise adjustment, it takes always takes me a few tries to get it just right.
    This. There's a bit of an art to it... though nicer gear is usually much more straightforward to tune. Surprised to hear you're having trouble with Dura-Ace, unless you're doing something wrong... they're some of the sweetest hubs made, IMO

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    3,942
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by davidad View Post
    Don't worry about how it feels in your hand. There should be a slight amount of play in the bearing adjustment that goes away when the quick release is closed.
    Sorry about this one. The hub is a single speed with Bearing cages. Make sure the cages are oriented properly and that there is a little preload in the bearings.
    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830672572.pdf

  14. #14
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Oz
    My Bikes
    copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
    Posts
    6,794
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Bearing preload is a fair bit easier to set on hubs with wheelnuts... there's no guesswork.

  15. #15
    Senior Member vladuz976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shibuya, Tokyo
    My Bikes
    Cannondale Bad Boy Disc, Cinelli Gazzetta custom
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I guess the below picture would explain what was wrong.
    I didn't see this the first time, but just took it apart again, degreased and cleaned all parts again.
    This is what I found while scooping out the grease from the bearing cup. I think it's a piece of metal from the key washer. I'm not sure how it got in there, since the washer goes on top of the cone.
    Amazingly there are no pits still.
    I am just glad I didn't ride the wheel like this. Otherwise I would've probably pitted the hub.
    hubtrouble.jpg

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    25,231
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by vladuz976 View Post
    I was working with one cone wrench and two adjustable socket wrenches. I think I'll go and invest some money in two 14mm cone wrenches and a dedicated 18mm wrench for the lock nut. (after reading sheldon's article ...)
    Check the locknut size before you buy the wrench. Most of the hex locknuts on Shimano hubs I've worked on are 17 mm.

  17. #17
    Senior Member vladuz976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shibuya, Tokyo
    My Bikes
    Cannondale Bad Boy Disc, Cinelli Gazzetta custom
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks for the heads-up.
    The 7600 front hub uses 13mm on the cone and 17mm for the locknut. The rear uses 14mm on the cone and 18mm on the locknut. At least for the 120mm-->110mm conversion axle I am using. I did measure them before I went to buy wrenches. 18mm was actually hard to find. Doesn't seem to be a common size.

    Anyhow, hub is rolling smoothly now, and it'll get some test riding on the track tomorrow!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •