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  1. #1
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    Campagnolo C-Record Friction Shifter Assembly

    I'm having some trouble assembling Campy c-record friction shifters. I tried looking for assembly diagrams online but have had no luck finding one that details the same parts as mine.

    I have attached a photo with all the pieces that came with the shifter.
    Does anyone know the correct sequence to assemble this thing?

    Is it A, D, R, B, H, F, C, E, G?
    Note* B and C are identical washers



    Many thanks in advance!

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    Well, your look a bit different from mine, but mine go like this:
    A, D, lever, B, C, E, G.
    Mine do not have those other parts, but have worked fine for many years.

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    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Since B has a small hole it can't be under H, which is meant to go around the boss rather than the bolt. Only A, D & R can be under H.

    Just muck around with it - there are only a handful of combinations at most that will even go together; you should be able to figure it out within fifteen minutes.

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    I have a 1992 set of Chorus shifters. The left lever was friction and the right indexed. The left sequence from the boss mount out was:
    A, D, Lever, H flat side out, F flat side in, B, C, E and G.

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    I can't tell if those are retrofriction levers, but here's a diagram of the retrofriction assembly:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by danacf View Post
    I have a 1992 set of Chorus shifters. The left lever was friction and the right indexed. The left sequence from the boss mount out was:
    A, D, Lever, H flat side out, F flat side in, B, C, E and G.
    I'm going to use this sequence. I remembered when I had my syncro shifters they had the same components as these for the left friction shifter.
    Thanks for all your input guys.

  7. #7
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    A word of warning. Once you get these assembled properly and installed on your bike, don't expect them to hold their friction setting. Campy's downtube shifters were notorious for loosening spontaneously and requiring frequent tightening of the D-ring to avoid ghost shifting. The Pros that were Campy sponsored at the time usually substituted Simplex Retrofriction shifters for the unreliable Campy levers.

  8. #8
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    +1 with hillrider, love campy but their friction arent the best ones. Shimano and suntour work better in my opinion.

  9. #9
    Used to be Conspiratemus
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
    I can't tell if those are retrofriction levers, but here's a diagram of the retrofriction assembly:
    Note that the two identical washers (B and C in Wooable's photo) are not flat. The diagram shows that they go on with their concave faces in contact to create a "bulged" structure, and not convex into concave which would create a "nested" one. I just noticed that after all these years.
    "I did not know that!" -- J. Carson

  10. #10
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    A word of warning. Once you get these assembled properly and installed on your bike, don't expect them to hold their friction setting. Campy's downtube shifters were notorious for loosening spontaneously and requiring frequent tightening of the D-ring to avoid ghost shifting. The Pros that were Campy sponsored at the time usually substituted Simplex Retrofriction shifters for the unreliable Campy levers.
    Wow... as much as I love Campy, I'm gonna have to piss on em for that... I mean how hard is a simple friction lever to get right?

    Fallire.

  11. #11
    Used to be Conspiratemus
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    I think HillRider's complaint applies more to the old classic NR shifters: once they loosened even a little bit the cable tension would produce instant ghost shifting, usually while climbing out of the saddle. The C-Record retrofriction jobs are much better -- I wouldn't say you never have to tweak the D-ring screw a little but they do hold. The secret for me was to tighten the mounting screw much more firmly than I would for a NR shifter. (Use only fingers, no tools that will break the D-ring!) Even with the screw tight, the clutch in the lever barrel still disengages to allow the shift to a bigger cog and re-engages to prevent ghost-shifting.

    Edit: I also use a small copper lock washer between the mounting screw and the outer cover plate (E in Wooable's photo) to try to keep the screw from loosening. Now that I've installed the concave washers properly after all these years I'll be interested to see if they're even better!
    Last edited by conspiratemus1; 04-21-11 at 09:39 PM.
    "I did not know that!" -- J. Carson

  12. #12
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Had some pretty Campagnolo dt shifters mounted up and they were a bit of a pain to keep set so I swapped them out for Zeus shifters which work marvelously and have a very similar appearance.

    I have some C Record shifters on my desk... will look them over if you have not figured things out already.

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