Headset Problem. A weird one, please help!
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Headset Problem. A weird one, please help!
I am rebuilding a bike and have the LBS installed the a new top/bottom headset race and also the fork crown. I keep the original lock nut and the adjustable race because of their special threading tpi (an old English Raleigh).
The problem is when I turn the handlebar I can feel it gets stuck/not smooth at one spot. I know this isn't due to overtightening on the adjustable race because the fork can still be wiggle a bit after I tighten the lock nut (kinda too loose actually). I have brand new ball bearings in there so it can't be them. Nothing is touching or pushing against the bottom race when turning. Also checked the steer tube and it seems straight to me. I have no clue and can't figure it out what's the issue here. Please help!
The problem is when I turn the handlebar I can feel it gets stuck/not smooth at one spot. I know this isn't due to overtightening on the adjustable race because the fork can still be wiggle a bit after I tighten the lock nut (kinda too loose actually). I have brand new ball bearings in there so it can't be them. Nothing is touching or pushing against the bottom race when turning. Also checked the steer tube and it seems straight to me. I have no clue and can't figure it out what's the issue here. Please help!
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Is it loose bearing on one race or both? I'd guess that a bearing has fallen out of the race and is jamming between the steerer and headtube.
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Loose ball bearings on both top/bottom. I thought about that too, so I removed the fork from the head tube tonight to inspect it and all ball bearings were still there. To prove it has nothing to do with ball bearings, I did clean all the grease on the headset races, put some new clean ball bearings back in with no grease and reinstall the fork just to test it out. Same problem, and got stuck at the same spot when turning the handlebar! Oh gosh..
*I shouldn't say STUCK, but not smooth to a point that almost feels like it got stuck.*
*I shouldn't say STUCK, but not smooth to a point that almost feels like it got stuck.*
#4
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Chances are the bearing cups and/or races aren't perfectly perpendicular to the head tube and are not parallel with each other and creates the tight spot when turning. That or the adjustable race you kept doesn't align with where the bearings ride in the cup, also causing a tight spot.
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Last edited by canopus; 04-20-11 at 11:57 PM. Reason: dang contractions
#5
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Sounds like a case of indexed or "brinelled" steering to me, where the fork sticks at the straight ahead position. But puzzling because the cups and bearings are brand new...
#6
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If everything is fitted properly then it's time to check and see if the steerer tube of the fork is bent. It happens with Raleigh forks, especially on juvenile bikes like the old Choppers.
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It could be a bit of mis-alignment causing a rub between cone and cup at an a certain point.
But this is also a symptom of one ball too many in the races. Check by assembling with one ball less than what you think is correct and see if it works better. If there's no difference you can put it back.
But this is also a symptom of one ball too many in the races. Check by assembling with one ball less than what you think is correct and see if it works better. If there's no difference you can put it back.
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It could be a bit of mis-alignment causing a rub between cone and cup at an a certain point.
But this is also a symptom of one ball too many in the races. Check by assembling with one ball less than what you think is correct and see if it works better. If there's no difference you can put it back.
But this is also a symptom of one ball too many in the races. Check by assembling with one ball less than what you think is correct and see if it works better. If there's no difference you can put it back.
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It's easy to check for mis-alignment on the installed fork. Rotate slowly watching the seam between the cup and cone and see of the gap changes as it turns. Check both upper and lower cups.
It's also possible that in mixing parts you don't have perfect clearance, probably at the top only, since the bottom is a matched set. Use a dry marker to color the edges and races of the upper cup and cone. Let it dry completely, assemble and work the fork back and forth across the rough area a number of times.
Then take it apart and examine both parts to see where the color biffed off. Also check to see if the ball tracks are where they are supposed to be.
It's also possible that in mixing parts you don't have perfect clearance, probably at the top only, since the bottom is a matched set. Use a dry marker to color the edges and races of the upper cup and cone. Let it dry completely, assemble and work the fork back and forth across the rough area a number of times.
Then take it apart and examine both parts to see where the color biffed off. Also check to see if the ball tracks are where they are supposed to be.
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Is it possible the upper and lower cups are installed in the wrong places?
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I double check the headset once again and it seems like the bottom cup isn't parallel with the head tube. I took remove the bottom race, install it once again and still the same thing, maybe my home made headset race tool sucks. I am not sure and I don't know if that's the reason why it has a tight spot on the headset. I am so mentally exhausted on this one now, argghhhHH!
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If you think the problem is because of poor seating of either the crown race, or lower head cup, assemble and adjust it as well as possible. If the binding occurs beyond 20-30 degrees from straight ahead, go ahead and ride the bike. Often normal road shock will seat these and bring them into line. You'll need to re-adjust the headset afterward, so there's no need to get it perfect for now.
If that doesn't work, you'll probably need to face the crown seat of headtube or both, but cross that bridge if and when you get to it.
If that doesn't work, you'll probably need to face the crown seat of headtube or both, but cross that bridge if and when you get to it.
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I double check the headset once again and it seems like the bottom cup isn't parallel with the head tube. I took remove the bottom race, install it once again and still the same thing, maybe my home made headset race tool sucks. I am not sure and I don't know if that's the reason why it has a tight spot on the headset. I am so mentally exhausted on this one now, argghhhHH!
Another shadetree method: Assemble the headset, but don't put the bearings in. The cups and cones just bear against each other. Thread the top cup on and then keep tightening until it pushes the frame cups all the way in. This isn't nice to aluminum headsets, but it's worked fine for steel headsets for me. YMMV, and if the bike explodes I didn't tell you this.
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Are you sure you are mixing compatible parts? Old English raleigh headsets were of a different design. They were a thrust bearing whereas the standard design is angular contact. (Cup and cone.)