Is head tube and bottom bracket shell facing needed on new Surly LHT frame?
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Is head tube and bottom bracket shell facing needed on new Surly LHT frame?
I just bought a new Surly LHT frame. Is it necessary to face the headtube and bottom bracket shell before installing headset and bottom bracket?
Bob
Bob
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Not sure, but I'll take a stab at it & say perhaps it's standard practice to avoid issues of debris in the threads (paint, primer, powder coating of metal shavings from thread cutting) or just a follow up to ensure new parts seat properly?
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Facing is the only way to ensure that the faces are parallel to each other - it will make for a better fit and prolong bearing life. BB taps will clean up the threads, to remove excess paint and other debris.
Is it an absolute necessity? No. But it would likely prolong the life of your frame, BB, and headset.
Is it an absolute necessity? No. But it would likely prolong the life of your frame, BB, and headset.
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What the others have said. Highly recommended. That said, I've built up several Surly frames of different models and found them all to be perfectly square out of the box. All I did by facing was remove paint.
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Just put an outboard bearing BB and a new headset on my new Surly LHT, no facing at all. I've experienced no problems so far. My 2 cents.
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We sell a lot of Surlys at our shop, both complete bikes and framesets. With framesets, we chase and face the bb and headtube, there's usually enough powdercoat residue to make it a good idea. On my own LHT, I chased and faced everything before building it up. On complete bikes the bb is already installed so we don't do anything there and have had no problems. Most of the Surly framesets we sell end up with cartridge bearing square taper bb's, so often the main issue is cleaning up the threads in the bb shell more than facing the shell (but we do both to while we're at it).
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Thanks to everyone for taking the time to write informative replies. It seems there is a range of acceptable approaches. Having it all done by professionals with proper tools ensures maximum longevity, though the Surly frames do not seem to require much prep. I just got a quote from a local, trusted bike shop and I think I'll spend the money. FYI, the total was $93.00 to chase and face everything, press the headset cups, and press the crown race.
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A facing tool and thread chasing taps will do the same thing at higher cost.
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Having it all done by professionals with proper tools ensures maximum longevity. I just got a quote from a local, trusted bike shop and I think I'll spend the money. FYI, the total was $93.00 to chase and face everything, press the headset cups, and press the crown race.
You've made a wise choice and your money is well spent. In my experience anyone who skips these steps is foolish and cheap.
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Only if the frame was properly prepped before it was painted.
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Thanks to everyone for taking the time to write informative replies. It seems there is a range of acceptable approaches. Having it all done by professionals with proper tools ensures maximum longevity, though the Surly frames do not seem to require much prep. I just got a quote from a local, trusted bike shop and I think I'll spend the money. FYI, the total was $93.00 to chase and face everything, press the headset cups, and press the crown race.
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There is no reason to face a BB if cartridge style bottom brackets are being put in. Sure, chase the threads. Traditional adjustable cup style BB should have the BB faced.
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I'd venture that they're better than the Chinese branded "gas pipe" tubed frames? (And by Chinese, I mean mainland) Does double butted chrome-moly count as "gas pipe" these days?
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True they are generic and Taiwanese but they are also very reasonably priced, well made and versatile. No one buys them as pur sang racing bikes or for their bling appeal but they are certainly functional and fill several very useful niches. The LHT is one of the premier affordable touring bikes. Sure you can get lighter, more sophisticated frames but only for a lot more money.
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Certain cartridge BB's have a much higher tolerance for facing errors than others, but some do not. That doesn't mean you don't need to face any of them
1) All manner of external bottom brackets
2) Shimano octalink bottom brackets (cartridge)
3) Campagnolo square taper bottom brackets (cartridge)
If you have a large enough facing error, even cartridge shimano cartridges will bind when installed.
Go look at some off the rack Marinoni's. Surlys use ****ty 4130 straight gauge tubing. It's anything but quality or value. You could build yourself an equivalently priced, same quality 'touring bike', from a $99 nashbar frame. It's a low-end touring bike, nothing more.
Last edited by operator; 04-24-11 at 09:26 AM.
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External doesn't count as a cartridge style. If a fixed cup bears against a surface that needs facing, face just the surface that needs it, not both. You're just scraping off paint. If you're putting in a Phil cartridge BB, don't bother facing.
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Both cups bear against a surface that needs facing. Thus?
#2 and #3 in my previous post counts as 'cartridge', they both have flanges that tighten against the face of the shell. Any other incorrect things you would like to add to this conversation?
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I'd say it depends on the BB one chooses to install as to determine if it needs facing. If your just going to put a ****ty shimano cartridge style in there, who cares? The flexing of the spindle is more than any mis-alignment on any decent frame made since what, 1980? I mean, if you've [the manufacturer] screwed up facing the BB shell prior to welding, it is a botched job already. Octolink is an abortion. Some BB's don't have any bearing support parts that bear against the BB shell face. Who cares if it is faced then? You guys throw out answers to questions in a general manner. Sure, facing is nice. Sometimes it is needed. Sometimes it isn't. You gonna charge your customer to do work that isn't needed?
Last edited by krome; 04-24-11 at 09:56 AM. Reason: changed "BB shell" to "BB shell face"
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That's extremely cheap service - labour rates not only have to pay for well the labour but the tool as well. Chasing and facing tools for the bottom bracket and headset are extremely expensive. If the shop doesn't do much of them it will take them a long time to repay that tool cost.
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I'd say it depends on the BB one chooses to install as to determine if it needs facing. If your just going to put a ****ty shimano cartridge style in there, who cares? The flexing of the spindle is more than any mis-alignment on any decent frame made since what, 1980? I mean, if you've [the manufacturer] screwed up facing the BB shell prior to welding, it is a botched job already. Octolink is an abortion. Some BB's don't have any bearing support parts that bear against the BB shell. Who cares if it is faced then? You guys throw out answers to questions in a general manner. Sure, facing is nice. Sometimes it is needed. Sometimes it isn't. You gonna charge your customer to do work that isn't needed?
An improperly faced shell, or one that needs facing, even for a ****ty shimano cart. When installed may cause it to bind, or not turn smoothly. If you run this it will significantly reduce the lifespan of the BB. You claim that no catridge bb's need to have shells faced. I just showed you one reason why they would need to be.
It's obvious you have never seen this problem before. One of many if you don't face something that needs to be.
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What if the guy says he's putting a Phil square taper BB in there? You gonna tell him it needs facing? Chasing threads sure. I don't disagree with that. I'd say again, it depends on the bike and BB combo as to determine the need to face a BB. If you do face it, do it once and be done. I'm on the side of less material removal. A guy with a facing tool can do some damage. I'm in full agreement that a BB that doesn't turn smooth is not good and should be corrected. The correct action depends on the circumstance.