I'm broke , so when my latest bike arrived- 13" Jamis Dragon 853- with cheapo used worn out components-Judy SL fork- I started hunting for another fork.
My Manitou steel coil Spring was good-tried it- but I really didn't need or want a front suspension(1880 grams also).
I tried a 1 1/8 fork off a Trek 950 but there wasn't enough threading.
I finally tried a 1" Cromo Trek fork I bought off Ebay-cheap maybe $19 total-a few years back.It was probably off a Trek 820,830,850 or so.(980 grams with extra headset parts)
I used the 1 1/8 cups- slipped 1" cups in and shimmed them with thin aluminum to make sure they were firmly seated.
Works great-granted it is a jury rig- but since I have more parts than $$- it works for me.
I initially did it with no shimming and there was play in it.
This is pointless unless you have a good quality 1" fork and loads of old headsets(Katrina salvage in some cases), and are short of $$
Can you afford a new threadless headset and a couple reducer shims.
Either the shim, there are machined ones for the purpose,
goes inside the current headset
Filling in the 16th of distance, to slip in a 1" threadless fork,
or the shim goes in the frame and the new headset fits against the shim.
then maybe you can kludge in a threaded headset , if you got a threaded fork.
You used to be able to get headset reducers, but have not heard of them for a long time. The headset / fork are pretty critical parts of the bike, and would not try to fit by shimming here. Have you tried looking for a 1 1/8 fork, both rigid steel or even Carbon ones should be avaliabe cheaply, either at you LBS or on ebay.
Are you using a Threaded or Threadless Headset, most forks are now threadless, and this makes it easier not having to deal with thread lenghts
What was the matter with the Judy SL, as this was high end when it came out?
The Judy SL is a nice enough fork, but it is leaking- not worth the $30 to repair..
I haven't seen any headset reducers on ebay in years- I looked.
Putting a 1" headset inside a 1 1/8" is actually a pretty good fit-.Initially I didn't shim it at all, but there was a tiny tiny bit of play. I shimmed it with a $ Store mixed nuts aluminum lid. I have some .010 aluminum flashing, but it was too thick.
It is a threaded fork- but I have a spare threadless 1 1/8 headset.
I looked for a Cromo fork on Ebay-NYC bikes sells what they claim is a CROMO one for $25 delivered- really cheap.
The fork I put on has a nice rake to it- I like raked forks-slightly softer ride- and slightly less twitchy than straight forks.
I mainly used it because it was FREE( well, already paid for)
When I become flush again I'll get a carbon for with some rake- tempted to use a cyclocross carbon fork(with some rake- not straight) and a 700c wheel/tire.
Can't see any good reason I can't use a 700c wheel/fork on the front.I like the slower more stable steering you get with a a bigger wheel tire with a more raked fork.
The frame is actually a TINY 13"- heck it is almost too small for me,and I'm just 5'5".
It would be close on toe overlap-especially if it had no rake.
ISo there is actually a market for 10-12 yo Judy SL forks- with leaky seals?I had no idea there was such a thing?
Hey when will my Giant NRS going to be retro enough to be worth more than $350 (and that is on a good day)?
It has a very modern- no bob- suspension, but it is last,last,last,last years news- kiss of death for MTBs usually.
I'm eyeballing a 1 1//8 26 fork on ebay- if it stays at $25(shipped) I can afford it. I would prefer to not have jury rigged equipment.I gotta say the jury rigged fork is working just fine- no play, and I think I can actually feel the difference between my 853 frame and the trek 950 True temper frame.Probably just my imagination since the 853 cost 2x as much, and I like to think I got my $$ worth.
Thanks for the info