Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1412 Post(s)
Using shims or not and how to use them depends on whether this will be a regular thing or not.
For occasional use, don't add any shims and simply flex the frame. It'll be somewhat harder mounting the wheel, but you can accept that. The dropout parallelism issue is minor, involving an error of about 1/2° or less.
People have been using the flex method for 126/130mm and another millimeter isn't going to be a dealbreaker.
If this is going to be the regular wheel for this frame, you'll probably want to either coldset the frame, or shim the wheel, if only for easier mounting.
If you do shim you have decisions, as Hillrider pointed out. Shimming each side is easy, and there's no issue of axle support, but chainline and RD travel might (that's might, but equally likely, might not) become issues with the cassette moved inboard 2.5mm.
OTOH shimming all on the left, which is the better method, means re-dishing the wheel and moving the axle over, which doesn't seem to be an option for you based on the photo.
If you don't or can't move the axle 5mm all on the left means zero axle/frame support and may be OK for a short while on good roads, but no more than that.
You could consider splitting the difference and adding thinner shims to both sides, or 3mm all on the left but not-re-dishing, and I think something along either of those lines may be the best approach.
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“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
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Last edited by FBinNY; 04-24-11 at 11:11 AM.