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Old 05-25-11, 10:49 AM   #1
lioni05
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Thoughts on this fork for my Miyata six-ten

I recently purchased a Miyata 610. Unfortunately, the fork was either damaged enroute, or the seller duped me. Either way the fork is toast. So, I am stuck in the unenviable position of trying to find a suitable replacement. I'd like to try and keep the original geometry as close to what it was as possible. So my thinking is that I'd like to find a 1" threaded touring fork, with canti bosses, for 27" wheels. The frame is a 54cm and the head tube is 11cm. As you can imagine this is exceedingly difficult. I have only found one fork that matches the description, here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

It is expensive, so I'd like to make sure that if I do decide to purchase it that it is going to work for this application. Here are the specs: Threads come down 2" from the top. 7 5/16" long steerer. From center of axle to center of brake bosses measures about 11.25". From center of axle to underside of fork crown measures 14.25

I have similar measurements from my fork and, while they don't match exactly, they are not that far off. I will post them when I get home. So my question is: Is there anyway to know that this fork will work without trying it out first? Is the price of the fork worth it?
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Old 05-25-11, 11:34 AM   #2
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Fork offset differences will change the trail and the so handling, some, as well ..

longer steerer tube than needed will allow a threaded to threadless 1" conversion too ..

I have 2 622/700c wheel bikes, they have the cantilever bosses at a radius from the hub axis of 11.5"

a 630/27" wheel is bigger , by .. r=4mm
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Old 05-26-11, 12:51 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lioni05 View Post
Either way the fork is toast.
It's steel, innit?

Are you sure it can't be fixed?
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Old 05-26-11, 10:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
It's steel, innit?

Are you sure it can't be fixed?
A few people have suggested this. I don't really know...Here are some pictures. If anyone has any experience with this (whether its possible, where to go, process involved, priice, etc.) I'd appreciate it.
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File Type: jpg Hipstamatic 072.jpg (90.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Hipstamatic 073.jpg (80.8 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Hipstamatic 074.jpg (94.4 KB, 5 views)
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Old 05-26-11, 10:35 AM   #5
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Ask a frame builder, about cost of replacing the blades,
and adding the cantilever/ V brake bosses.
it will cost what it costs to live and work, run a business making things, in a shop,
where you live.

you could specify to add more braze-ons in the process,
before the paint goes on.
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Old 05-26-11, 10:39 AM   #6
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Oh and it looks like crash damage, check the frame for damage too..
bending shows as a bulge on the under front end of the down and top tubes.
You could have bought scrap metal.. if so..
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Old 05-26-11, 11:57 AM   #7
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Why not run a 700c front? A replacement should then be easier to find... you can run the two different tires and still carry one spare tube, as the tube will fit both. The Atala I did for my father is 700C rear and 27" front, running matching panaracers I think.

Or, f you'e shelling out a bunch of $$$ for that ebay replacement fork, I bet yo could recoup most of that $$$ if he handling is off after the install when you sell it on. Sell it for $20 less and consider it an experiment...
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