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  1. #1
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    Thoughts on this fork for my Miyata six-ten

    I recently purchased a Miyata 610. Unfortunately, the fork was either damaged enroute, or the seller duped me. Either way the fork is toast. So, I am stuck in the unenviable position of trying to find a suitable replacement. I'd like to try and keep the original geometry as close to what it was as possible. So my thinking is that I'd like to find a 1" threaded touring fork, with canti bosses, for 27" wheels. The frame is a 54cm and the head tube is 11cm. As you can imagine this is exceedingly difficult. I have only found one fork that matches the description, here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    It is expensive, so I'd like to make sure that if I do decide to purchase it that it is going to work for this application. Here are the specs: Threads come down 2" from the top. 7 5/16" long steerer. From center of axle to center of brake bosses measures about 11.25". From center of axle to underside of fork crown measures 14.25

    I have similar measurements from my fork and, while they don't match exactly, they are not that far off. I will post them when I get home. So my question is: Is there anyway to know that this fork will work without trying it out first? Is the price of the fork worth it?

  2. #2
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Fork offset differences will change the trail and the so handling, some, as well ..

    longer steerer tube than needed will allow a threaded to threadless 1" conversion too ..

    I have 2 622/700c wheel bikes, they have the cantilever bosses at a radius from the hub axis of 11.5"

    a 630/27" wheel is bigger , by .. r=4mm

  3. #3
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lioni05 View Post
    Either way the fork is toast.
    It's steel, innit?

    Are you sure it can't be fixed?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    It's steel, innit?

    Are you sure it can't be fixed?
    A few people have suggested this. I don't really know...Here are some pictures. If anyone has any experience with this (whether its possible, where to go, process involved, priice, etc.) I'd appreciate it.Hipstamatic 072.jpgHipstamatic 073.jpgHipstamatic 074.jpg

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Ask a frame builder, about cost of replacing the blades,
    and adding the cantilever/ V brake bosses.
    it will cost what it costs to live and work, run a business making things, in a shop,
    where you live.

    you could specify to add more braze-ons in the process,
    before the paint goes on.

  6. #6
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Oh and it looks like crash damage, check the frame for damage too..
    bending shows as a bulge on the under front end of the down and top tubes.
    You could have bought scrap metal.. if so..

  7. #7
    babylon by bike Standalone's Avatar
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    Why not run a 700c front? A replacement should then be easier to find... you can run the two different tires and still carry one spare tube, as the tube will fit both. The Atala I did for my father is 700C rear and 27" front, running matching panaracers I think.

    Or, f you'e shelling out a bunch of $$$ for that ebay replacement fork, I bet yo could recoup most of that $$$ if he handling is off after the install when you sell it on. Sell it for $20 less and consider it an experiment...
    The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley

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