Cantilever to V Brakes Swap?
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Cantilever to V Brakes Swap?
Is it possible to change from cantilever brakes to v brake with a simple brake lever swap?
I'm thinking of installing v brakes on my 95 Trek 7000zx and wonder if it's as simple as changing the brakes, cables and levers?
I'm thinking of installing v brakes on my 95 Trek 7000zx and wonder if it's as simple as changing the brakes, cables and levers?
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It can be that easy. However, sometimes cable routing can be a little tricky - bikes that were designed for cantis sometimes have a cable guide instead of a housing stop on the rear, or have cable routing on the wrong side that makes setup a bit more challenging. But, yeah, it's not brain science.
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Don from Austin Texas
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My friend recently did this and I found everything he needed at a swap meet for $30.
When I changed over one of my bikes, I found a complete brake set with handles for
$30 on e-bay.
Don in Austin
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What, there isn't some kind of travel agent-style jigger available?
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There certainly used to be, probably still is available from problem solvers. A decent set of avid speed dial levers is up to the task, probably makes for a nice upgrade, and wouldn't be that much more expensive than travel agents. On my 1993 rockhopper, I did this conversion, and had issues with the rear cable stop. I was never satisfied with the clamp-on stop that I ended up using; it moved too easily on the top tube, and looked ugly. Full-length housing might be the way to go in this scenario, although I haven't tried it.
#8
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Several bikes in the family fleet have been converted from cantis to V-brakes. I did have a cable stop issue on my daughter's Trek that was solved my mounting a seatpost clamp stop about 190 degrees from it's intended position.
Aside from new levers you might have to add a brake booster on the rear brake. Older bikes have seatstays that are a little too flexy for the additional leverage of the V-brakes over cantis. Forks are usually beefy enough to avoid this.
Top
Aside from new levers you might have to add a brake booster on the rear brake. Older bikes have seatstays that are a little too flexy for the additional leverage of the V-brakes over cantis. Forks are usually beefy enough to avoid this.
Top
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#9
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What, there isn't some kind of travel agent-style jigger available?
is on your side of the Pacific, after all..
The roller travel agent is their product ..
but given OP is doing an MTB conversion, straight bars,
it Is just getting Parts.
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-26-11 at 10:25 AM.
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I converted my 1993 Trek 7000 from cantilevers to v-brakes with new levers. I was able to use the original cable stops and routing, but had to use a 135 degree noodle on the rear brake.
Last edited by Kayaker; 05-26-11 at 09:55 PM. Reason: sp
#11
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I've been working on converting this 1995 Trek Mountain Track from canti to v brake. There are heaps of guides online show you how to swap the brakes and levers but nothing about the cable routing, so I made a short clip of cutting mine frame to test, this is the cleanest way I found without adding cable stop clamps etc...and it works.
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I've been working on converting this 1995 Trek Mountain Track from canti to v brake. There are heaps of guides online show you how to swap the brakes and levers but nothing about the cable routing, so I made a short clip of cutting mine frame to test, this is the cleanest way I found without adding cable stop clamps etc...and it works. https://youtu.be/hEF09cKdb0Q
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DO NOT CUT YOUR FRAME! Also don't zombie old posts from 2011 to post really bad advice. You don't need to mangle a perfectly good frame to install linear pull brakes and if you do stick with cantilevers as they are fine brakes like most brakes are with good pads and shoes and cables and housing and of course proper set up. I have cantilevers on my Single Speed/Fixed Gear RandoCross Fun Time Machine and they stop just fine with no issues and I was very specific in choosing them and wouldn't make another choice 7 or 8 years down the road.
If you feel you need to mangle your frame please send it to me I will find a good home for it, clearly that bike isn't for you. They make frames for all different kinds of brakes and even plenty of custom builders who can give you whatever you want or need never a need to take a good frame and destroy it and yes I will repeat that as many times as needed.
If you feel you need to mangle your frame please send it to me I will find a good home for it, clearly that bike isn't for you. They make frames for all different kinds of brakes and even plenty of custom builders who can give you whatever you want or need never a need to take a good frame and destroy it and yes I will repeat that as many times as needed.
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#14
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DO NOT CUT YOUR FRAME! Also don't zombie old posts from 2011 to post really bad advice. You don't need to mangle a perfectly good frame to install linear pull brakes and if you do stick with cantilevers as they are fine brakes like most brakes are with good pads and shoes and cables and housing and of course proper set up. I have cantilevers on my Single Speed/Fixed Gear RandoCross Fun Time Machine and they stop just fine with no issues and I was very specific in choosing them and wouldn't make another choice 7 or 8 years down the road.
If you feel you need to mangle your frame please send it to me I will find a good home for it, clearly that bike isn't for you. They make frames for all different kinds of brakes and even plenty of custom builders who can give you whatever you want or need never a need to take a good frame and destroy it and yes I will repeat that as many times as needed.
If you feel you need to mangle your frame please send it to me I will find a good home for it, clearly that bike isn't for you. They make frames for all different kinds of brakes and even plenty of custom builders who can give you whatever you want or need never a need to take a good frame and destroy it and yes I will repeat that as many times as needed.
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Thank you for your opinion. I am simply offering my solution for my bike, and since it's my bike, I believe I can do whatever I want with it. Others can decide if it works for them or not. I am not forcing anyone to do the same, but I am sure someone will find this useful. I posted it here because when I was searching for a solution to my problem, this post came up. I noticed others were facing the same problem, so after I found a solution that worked for me, I decided to share it here. I didn't know there is a rule not to revive any old posts, and I didn't even check when this post was created. Whether it's bad advice or not, that's up to the reader to decide. Everyone is different and entitled to their opinion.
Not a specific rule against it but general forum etiquette from every forum I have ever been on.
Sorry if I felt harsh, I am just not supportive of people hacking at their frames.
#16
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I guess yeah you could mangle a bike but please don't and suggest to others that is an option. It is just a bad show, good sir! No need to ever destroy a frame just to go from cantilever brakes to linear pull brakes and if so how there was I would just run the brakes that work on it and get a frame that can accommodate the brakes I want to run. Plus I have seen some people with a Dremel or similar tool and I am scared. One wrong cut and you have made something dangerous. Plus if I ever wanted to bring it back to a stock configuration I would be screwed vs. just mounting the brake and not routing it through that like a sensible chap would do.
Not a specific rule against it but general forum etiquette from every forum I have ever been on.
Sorry if I felt harsh, I am just not supportive of people hacking at their frames.
Not a specific rule against it but general forum etiquette from every forum I have ever been on.
Sorry if I felt harsh, I am just not supportive of people hacking at their frames.
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That's okay; everyone is entitled to their opinions. Again, whether it's a bad show or not, it's up to the audience. In my opinion, my method doesn't cut into any of the frame tubes; this is not like someone drilling holes in their top tube to run internal cables. I only added an opening to the cable guide, so it doesn't affect the integrity and tensile strength of the frame, nor the safety of the rider. Even if I want to return it to canti brakes, it would still work fine since I didn't cut off the remaining part of the cable guide. I know some people don't like changes in general, but I like to modify my bikes/cars and experiment with different components and combinations. Without modification/customization, I can't say they are truly mine.
True you didn't necessarily hack into a tube but knowing some people with a similar tool they could easily do that. I would just avoid that stop and run the brakes as needed or just keep the cantis. The only thing wrong with them is cheap ones or ones not properly set up. Once I set up mine they stop just fine and have been used to stop bikes for decades and people at professional levels raced with them before disc brakes. If they were good enough for Tinker Juarez and Ned Overend they are good enough for me : )
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#18
Newbie
I have a '90s Univega hybrid that can't easily be converted to linear pull because of the small-diameter guide on the frame and the absence of a rear-facing cable stop. A clamp-on stop or similar adaptation would allow the conversion.
I replaced the stock calipers with Tektro Oryx cantilevers. They are compatible with canti short-pull levers but use linear-pull threaded pads. They are almost as easy to adjust as linear pulls and provide excellent stopping power with light lever action and good modulation. Link wires are included with the calipers.
I have been running these brakes for more than a decade and they still work good as new. For a rider who wishes to replace old cantis with something more modern, but is confronting cable routing problems, this is an easy upgrade and a good solution.
I replaced the stock calipers with Tektro Oryx cantilevers. They are compatible with canti short-pull levers but use linear-pull threaded pads. They are almost as easy to adjust as linear pulls and provide excellent stopping power with light lever action and good modulation. Link wires are included with the calipers.
I have been running these brakes for more than a decade and they still work good as new. For a rider who wishes to replace old cantis with something more modern, but is confronting cable routing problems, this is an easy upgrade and a good solution.
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#19
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I had this exact same bike a couple years ago and converted it to V brakes the same way. Avoiding cutting the frame is pretty easy unless you're a complete clutz. I flared the tube a little with a tapered punch so the ferule fitted a bit better and dabbed a little paint to stop rust. Considering these bikes are close to worthless these days (I found mine) this is great low cost way to convert them from canti brakes but that said, the original brakes can be made to work just fine with new pads and cables.
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My 1990 Fisher CR-7 originally had canti brakes. A previous owner converted to XTR V-Brakes and the work very well.
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