Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Originally Posted by reptilezs
tighten until play is gone. start with play and tighten in 1/8 turns or so
Tighten by degrees until play is gone. Test by bouncing the front end and listening or by using the front brake and rocking the bike forward and back.
You should have enough room to push the damaged nut down one inch and leave there, this is much easier than trying to remove it, but if you prefer you can drill out the hut, and turn each leaf sideways and pick out with a spoke.
Originally Posted by panamapete
i dont think my stem was too tight because i had removed my stem bolts and then then just put them back in a few turns by hand, but that might have been too much come to think of it. so you probably are right...
A loose stem means just that - loose. It should be loose enough that the handlebars turn freely while you hold the fork.
It's also possible you forgot one spacer. If you feel the screw needing torque while the headset is still loose, stop. Tighten the stem where it is, remove the screw and top cap and odds are you'll see the steerer has reached to the top of the stack, or so close that the top cap can touch it. Add a spacer before trying further adjustments.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance
Last edited by FBinNY; 07-16-11 at 01:47 PM.