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  1. #1
    MTWThFMuter Jeprox's Avatar
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    Non-sealed type components

    I have a non-sealed 7-speed freewheel. Can I lube it without going thru repacking? How 'bout non-sealed hubs? If these are possible to just lube, how does one do it? Thanks in advance for any response.

  2. #2
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    Well usually those 7 speed freewheels are seen on lower end bikes, ive owned one and i dont see how youwould lube it would repacking. my advice is to not take out the cassette becuase theres many tiny ball bearings and its a pain in the arse to repack all of them. KIl's time if your bored though

  3. #3
    sch
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    Freewheels should not be greased, the pawls might hang up resulting in either a broken pawl or a freewheel that is free both ways. By laying the bike on its side you can dribble organic solvent through
    the FW by pouring it in the center depression and rotating the wheel. You then follow up with oil of choice (but not chain lube), 3n1, 30w motor oil etc. Makes a mess but it works. Or you can do the
    same after removing FW from hub for less mess. Let FW drain for a while before reinstall. FW can be disassembled but it is not a good idea. Taking off the outside cap is usually feasible if the FW is clamped in a vise in a horizontal position, the cap can be tapped out with a punch and hammer, exposing a lot of little balls that make up the outer race. Going further risks having the pawls and their springs fall out and disappear and all the little inner race balls fall out. Hubs are easy to take apart and repack. You will need the thin 13-14-15-16mm wrenches. Take wheel off bike, remove FW if rear, unscrew the several nuts/spacers and threaded bearing race taking note of their order and which side they came from. Also note howmuch thread is exposed on each end of the hub. Once all threaded parts are removed from one side (left side is better on rear hub) the axle will just pull out and the balls be exposed: usually free and they will fall out. Have an old towel or cloth under neath when pulling out the axle or the balls will disappear. Clean everything, examine the races and balls for pitting or brinelling and corrosion. Grease with thin grease, a bit more than enough to stick balls in place, not 100% fill of all voids. Reverse assemble, tighten just enough to remove all slack in the system and then add 1/8th turn to 1/4 turn more. Many would advise tossing the balls and replacing with new as cheap insurance. Some hubs have dust covers over the bearings that have to be popped off. Steve

  4. #4
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeprox
    I have a non-sealed 7-speed freewheel. Can I lube it without going thru repacking? How 'bout non-sealed hubs? If these are possible to just lube, how does one do it? Thanks in advance for any response.
    Freewheels are easy to relube.
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html I'd suggest Phil's Tenacious Oil as it is about the best stuff I've found for the task (works great in SA three speeds too).
    The hubs on the other hand WILL need to be repacked here's a guide for that
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_hub.shtml

  5. #5
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    I remove mine using a FW tool in a vice (no chainwhip needed).
    Rest it, small cog down in a plastic tub and flush with WD40 through the gap between rotating parts. That will remove any dirt and old oil.
    Let it drain for a while, then drizzel in bike oil through the same gap.
    Thats all I ever do. The cogs wear out before the bearings.

    Be careful when screwing the FW back on the hub, it's very easy to cross thread and damage the Al hub.

  6. #6
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelW

    Be careful when screwing the FW back on the hub, it's very easy to cross thread and damage the Al hub.
    Yes, it's extremely easy to do. Best way to avoid it it to start the FW back on to the hub by hand and perform the final tightening with the tool.

  7. #7
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raiyn
    Yes, it's extremely easy to do. Best way to avoid it it to start the FW back on to the hub by hand and perform the final tightening with the tool.
    You don't need a tool at all,It will go on as far as it needs to by hand and gets tightened by riding.

  8. #8
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    You need the tool to reverse thread the FW so it clicks onto the thread, then spin it tight. You can rotate the tool by hand, you dont need a wrench.

  9. #9
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelW
    You need the tool to reverse thread the FW so it clicks onto the thread, then spin it tight. You can rotate the tool by hand, you dont need a wrench.
    Now that makes sense.

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