Lovegasoline

I'm in need of some creative problem solving on how to resolve a brake cable routing issue.

The bike is a mid 1980's Motobecane with center pull brakes which I'm upgrading to aero brake levers plus interrupter levers. Due to very tight space restrictions, the stock brake cable hanger will not work. I'm uncertain if another hanger would even work or if there's a workaround.

I'd debated where to post the thread and originally posted it to the Classic and Vintage forum. However, a clear solution hasn't appeared. I'm hoping someone here has encountered this before or can see a way to make it work.


The thread (with pics) is here:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...4#post12934724

Thanks!

dsbrantjr

Lovegasoline: A fork crown mount cable hanger like this https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...jsp?spid=47409 should give you some more room to make the bend. You will probably need to shorten the brake straddle wire but it should be doable. If the bend is still too sharp maybe leavng a little longer loop and using a 135 degree cable noodle https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-V-brak.../dp/B001XTG0S8 to make the bend into the hanger would be helpful.

fietsbob

the fork crown cable hanger is a good suggestion.
It will share the same bolt as holds your brake on ,
so that will need to be longer..
+
Just bear in mind, Aero levers are high leverage,
not much cable pull for lever the lever travel.

and a center pull brake is also Higher leverage,
It needs more cable pulled,
to get the pads to start gripping the rim ..

So, the brake adjustment will feature just a thin clearance
between pad and rim when the brakes are at rest.

bikeman715

I agree with dsbrantir about the use of a 135 degree cable noodle . It what I done to a bike and it works very well .

BCRider

I just posted to the other thread about using a drop style hanger. I've had them in the past where they fit into the threaded heaset stack like this one but are offset downwards about an inch.

Kimmo 

Since you're not concerned about maintaining vintage purity, put a proper dual-pivot on the front.

Cable hanger issue solved, and you'll be able to lock the front without using all your strength.

dabac

+1

Don't remember what angle it was, but I've used noodles that way too. One may have to get creative with ferrules, but apart from that it's an easy enough component to add.
I think I remember someone here using flexible noodles with good results too.

Lovegasoline

Dsbrantjr:
Thanks for the ideas. I’m unclear about the introduction of the noodle into the setup. I looked at your online link and it’s the almost “u” shaped noodle? Where exactly would it connect into the cable system? Anyone have a pic of such a setup?

I’m not sure how to shorten the straddle wire on the caliper as it has the connectors on both ends (brazed?) to fit into the caliper arms. Also, wouldn’t shortening the straddle wire increase the wire’s angle, thus increasing the forces on it, and also perhaps changing the pull of the brake lever?


Bikeman715:
Any pics of your setup?
I’ve no experience with noodles and I’m unable to envision the system with an almost ‘U’ shaped noodle in place.


BCrider:
I don’t think an 1” or so off offset on the hanger would be sufficient. It looks like it would need few inches to have a chance of working.


Kimmo:
I’m trying to keep costs down. How much does would a side pull caliper, equal in quality to the Weinmann center pull, cost? Would there be hardware issue in mounting it?


Thanks a bunch for the replies.

fietsbob

cannot find a thin enough housing stop/cable hanger to go in the headset top stack ?

Problem Solvers, [QBP] makes a cable hanger to grip the stem.. 7/8" /22.2mm
includes a partial noodle..

dsbrantjr

Lovegasoline: I don't have a photo, nor the bike any more, but the noodle goes into the top of the cable hanger where the cable would go, and exits towards the rider's left assuming the front brake is controlled by the left lever. The cable goes into the noodle and makes a curve up and to the right where it goes into the interrupter brake lever. You may need a noodle with an angle other than 135 degrees (90 or 45) to make a nice loop but the concept is the same.

Kimmo's suggestion of a sidepull caliper does have some appeal and you shouldn't have too much difficulty mounting it. That would eliminate the cable hanger problem but there might still be routing issues with the interrupter lever, though. A noodle might still be handy to get around the tight bend out of the lever down to the caliper.

Lovegasoline

Still confused.

The front brake lever is on rider's left. If the noodle mounts to the top of the cable hanger (assuming in this instance an aftermarket lowered cable hanger) and the cable exits the noodle toward's rider's left.... how does it make a curve up to the right to the interrupter lever (scratching head). In this scenario it seems to me the cable would have to make an 'S' curve.

In the pic below:
-blue represents the front brake interrupter lever
-green represents the idealized lower cable hanger
-red represents the 135 degree noodle.





How does the cable route?

fietsbob

The housing is spread, when you apply the brakes, from the second lever..
that is what is interrupted, the cable runs continuously , thru the top mount, 2nd brake lever..

the noodle is a red herring.. , you may be able to get away with another sheet metal housing stop
instead of the one with the combined reflector bracket ..
there are some that offer Drop, down from the front of the headset

perhaps running the brake housing up and over the stem and back down
to the hanger on the other side,
so the bend the cable goes around is not so tight. ,rather than the V noodle.

Those bars will either have to be stripped of that molded on plastic sleeve .. in the next step,

Or they are old enough for metal fatigue of the Aluminum, to have taken it's toll, and should be replaced

Any way, ... as a safety measure.

bikeman715

The noodle would connect to the cable stop / reflector bracket may it be 135 degree or 90 or whatever it takes to makes a nice curb from the stop to the handlebars . the housing would run from the noodle to the interrupted and from the interrupted to the brake lever with the cable running thou it all to the bridge (anchor ).

Kimmo 

$22 (AUD I spose). You might need to drill out the rear hole in the fork if it uses a recessed nut, no big deal.