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Ticking noise from crank or pedals

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Old 07-23-11, 12:53 PM
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Ticking noise from crank or pedals

I have a SRAM Force crank with Look KeoMax2 pedals with ~1800 miles. There are three spacer washers between the crank & pedal, to get my fit correct (drive side only). I use SIDI Genius 5 shoes.
Recently, there has been a tick with the down-stroke on the drive side, especially when climbing. I took the pedal off, reinstalled it & tightened it down good. Still the tick. I then put the pedal from my wife's bike (same pedal, less miles) on mine, and I have the same problem. I took her's off, cleaned, lubed & installed mine back on the bike. Same problem. I also tightened my cleats.
If I remember correctly, there was a very loud pop that came from somewhere on my bike around the time that the ticking started. I have a carbon frame, with no signs of cracks or damage. I have not crashed this bike.
Everything seems tight, there is not any play in the pedals, crank or BB.

Does anyone know what this could be?
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Old 07-23-11, 01:05 PM
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well, if you tried all you can with the pedals, then it might be something with the BB or crankset.

have you actually gone about taking the crankset off and tightening the BB?

I also see that you are using 3 spacers, but have you ever seen or considered this product?
https://www.kneesaver.net/
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Old 07-24-11, 09:56 AM
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1. Check and tighten chain ring bolts.

2. Apply just a bit of oil to the bottom of your cleat where it meets the pedal

3. Try a grease instead of oil on the pedal threads and be sure all contact surfaces between pedal and crank have a bit of grease on them, including flanges.
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Old 07-24-11, 01:52 PM
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Before getting into serious teardowns, make sure the rising crank on the left side isn't ticking on the end of the front derailleur cable.

Last edited by FanaticMN; 07-24-11 at 01:54 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 07-24-11, 02:14 PM
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Had a similar problem with my FSA Gossamer cranks. Swapped pedals and it persisted. Torqued-up the chainring bolts, and kept ticking. I pulled the bottom bracket, cleaned off the old lock-tite, put fresh dose of the blue lock-tite goo on and reassembled it. Torqued all to spec along the way that did the trick. Good luck!
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