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  1. #1
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    How do you keep the rear wheel from rubbing against the frame?

    Hey guys, I think that I have a 70's era Chicago Schwinn 18 speed road bike. I bought it used and it was painted over so there is no identifying model name. I have pretty much restored the bike and I'm using the original parts that came with it. The problem that I'm having is that the rear wheel rubs against the frame. The whole wheel just shifts out of alignment. This happens when I get up to pedal and it just stays that way until I manually move it back into position. I have checked to see if the skewer was improperly fastened but it was. The outer tire is 27x1 1 1/4. The wheel frame is a Weimann 6x630 27x1.1/4. The frame has a horizontal dropout for the rear wheel. Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Senior Member thedutchtouch's Avatar
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    sounds like the hub is slipping forward in the dropout when you apply pressure.

  3. #3
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    How are you adjusting the qr skewer? The proper method is to tighten the skewer nut such that resistance is felt when the qr lever is halfway tightened. This ensures that there is enough clamp friction against the dropout. Of course, I realized that your axle may be bolt-on, in which case you need to be sure that the nuts have enough teeth on the clamping face to establish adequate friction. If this is not the case, you will need to either source new axle nuts or cut new teeth with a file or hacksaw. Good Luck!

    Cheers
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  4. #4
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    you might need to file away some paint on the dropout so the QR can " bite " into it . or replace the QR , it could be worn out from time.
    bikeman715

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the quick responses guys. the QR still has some teeth on it but not much so it looks like I'll be doing some filing on them today.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    What kind of quick release lever? They're not all created equal.

    If it says "Shimano" or Campy" on it, that's good. Almost anything else, if you can see how the cam works, is inferior.

  7. #7
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    @Retro Grouch

    My QR lever is by Mallard. From what I've heard and read, Shimano levers are expensive.

  8. #8
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    It should take some effort, and leave a bit of a red mark on your hand, to tighten the QR.
    RANS V3 (steel), RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer

  9. #9
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    I take it this is an old-style frame with horizontal dropouts on the rear. Are the positioning screws missing? Many of these frames had small screws that went in through the rear of the dropout to keep the wheel centered when you replaced it... Often missing on older bikes.

  10. #10
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    Make sure the axle is not sticking out past the dropouts. If it is
    the QR is just tightening against the end of the axle.

  11. #11
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavalon12 View Post

    My QR lever is by Mallard. From what I've heard and read, Shimano levers are expensive.
    It's "Maillard"- they come from France. I would have a knowledgeable shop look it over. Either the adjustment is off, or there's a washer missing on the axle.

    Shimano QR levers aren't that expensive, especially if you get a used, older, all-steel part. The newer ones have aluminum levers, which feel too delicate for my Magilla Gorilla hands.
    Jeff Wills

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  12. #12
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Maillard skewers aren't as good as Shimano, but I've always had good luck with them. In some cases I've gotten old rusty skewers that turned janky at some point and no longer work as they're supposed to.

    Either you aren't tightening it enough, or the skewer is bad. I just bought a Shimano rear skewer at the LBS for $7. They're not that expensive.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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