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  1. #1
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    can not keep the brake cable on the frame?

    Hi everyone, I don have much experience on bikes, but anyway i decided to build a bike by myself as a small project during the summer. i am having trouble right now figuring out how to keep the brake cable on the frame. The frame i bought is kind of different than the bikes i had before. As you can see from the picture, the hole is too wide to hold the cable in place. Anyone can help me out a little?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by ahLZ; 07-30-11 at 04:23 PM.

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    Can't see from the picture, but I suspect that's a stepped cable stop. Pull out the cable and see if there's a big hole at one end and a small one at the other. If so, you're supposed to end the housing at the stop with the bare wire continuing to the mating stop where the housing starts again.

    To do so, you'll need ferrules that fit the stops correctly.

    If that doesn't work, attach a close up photo of the stop without the cable in it. Take it at an angle that shows the details of the stop best. It's the inside (holes) that we need to see in order to help.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Looks like a hydraulic hose guide intended to take a wedge-fit "keeper." Man, I hate those things! Anyway, hydro guides can often do double duty as a cable stop if you have a proper adapter like this one: http://aebike.com/product/jagwire-5m...r2792-qc30.htm



    When using these, the outer cable housing would end at these stops, leaving just the inner wire inbetween.

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    thank you for your response. I just uploaded more detailed photos

  5. #5
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    Saw the photos. It seems MechBgone nailed it. Either use the slip in fulcrums to convert to a split system, or put the housing into the guide and run a cable tie all the way around the tube to keep it there.
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    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Either use the slip in fulcrums to convert to a split system, or put the housing into the guide and run a cable tie all the way around the tube to keep it there.
    Hi, thank you for your two solutions but I don't quite understand what you said about the split system.
    Could you explain the split system more in detail?
    and also, are you suggesting to tie the cables instead of using that cable stop? If so, what would you tie the cable with? Anything cheap would do? i don't really want to spend $10 on those cable stops...

  7. #7
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    I think he's using "split system" to describe running cable stops. The cable housing is split. One run of housing from lever to frame another run of housing from frame to caliper, bare cable between cable stops.

    I like the jagwire converters mentioned by mechbegone

    If you don't want to wait for an AEBike shipment, since you've hydro clips I'd probably go for the 2nd option FB mentions. You put the cable in the cable guides then put zip ties around to keep the cable in there. Actually I might try the electrical tape option. Put enough wraps of tape around the housing in the guide area so that it clips firmly into the guide. Looks cleaner than zip-ties but not as solid, as if/when you turn your bars too far or just happen to snag housing on something the housing might unclip.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 07-30-11 at 05:37 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

  8. #8
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    I must be a ventriloquist using a puppet to speak for me.

    But yes, Lester has it right. By split system I mean those that and housing ar one end of the tube, and run bare wire to the other where the housing starts again. It's like how gear cables are usually configured.

    I'm not a fan of using electrical tape, though it'll do the job. Problem is it tends to stretch and curl over time so I stick with cable ties for jobs like this. You can try the tie directly over the fitting, to trap the cable, or put it immediately to either side. You might also want a third tie in the middle because your leg will tend to brush the cable, dislodging it, on a regular basis.
    FB
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    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    If you don't want to wait for an AEBike shipment, since you've hydro clips I'd probably go for the 2nd option FB mentions. You put the cable in the cable guides then put zip ties around to keep the cable in there. Actually I might try the electrical tape option. Put enough wraps of tape around the housing in the guide area so that it clips firmly into the guide. Looks cleaner than zip-ties but not as solid, as if/when you turn your bars too far or just happen to snag housing on something the housing might unclip.
    Thank you so much. I'll probably go with the zip ties + wrap around the housing with tapes, ride for a few days see if it secures enough.

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    Funny Those are cable stops, not cable guides basically the cable housing stops in the cable stop, then the cable goes naked untill you get to the second cable stop, then u put a second piece of cable housing from there to the brake caliper or whatever u are using.

    Good luck

    ps: u might need the ends for the cable housing. Those should keep the cable in the right place in the cable stops

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahLZ View Post
    Thank you so much. I'll probably go with the zip ties + wrap around the housing with tapes, ride for a few days see if it secures enough.
    Do you wear both a belt and suspenders? Pick one, either enough electrical tape to jam the housing in the clip, or skip the tape and use a tie. You can do both, there's no harm, it's just unnecessary work.
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    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  12. #12
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
    Funny Those are cable stops, not cable guides
    Look closer and you'll see a cable stop for front derailer cable shown on downtube and guides for hydraulic brake hose shown on top tube and left seatstay.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 07-30-11 at 07:32 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Do you wear both a belt and suspenders? Pick one, either enough electrical tape to jam the housing in the clip, or skip the tape and use a tie. You can do both, there's no harm, it's just unnecessary work.
    right now i put a lot of electrical tape on the cable housing, it seems pretty stable to me.

  14. #14
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    Lester... Well, if you look in the last picture u can see he is using regular V brakes, even if the frame has stops for hydraulic brakes doesnt look like this kid is using them at all, in a matter of fact i dont see anything in the few pictures that looks out of regular cable shifters and brakes.

    Second picture, the shifter is not hydraulic at all. 4th picture shows the V brakes, the cable stops looks like conic to me so probably you can run the cable with a nice ferrule in the end of the cable housing and could work just fine. What I really ignore is if the diameter of the Hydraulic tubing is different than the regular cable housing. Either way from the pictures doubt the OP is running anything Hydraulic in that frame also.

    Good luck op.

  15. #15
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Yep, I realize he's not using hydraulic brake lines. This is why his brake cable housing won't stay in the housing guides. Guides are designed to hold a larger diameter of housing/line than the brake cable housing he's using. If you choose to run V-brakes or cable actuated discs with this frame you'll have to get the aforementioned inserts, run zip-ties or electrical tape around housing.

    And I've never heard of hydraulic shifters - luckily the derailer runs are cable housing ready.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 07-30-11 at 08:00 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

  16. #16
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    BTW, what is the frame, ahLZ? Obviously Canadian but doesn't seem to be Rocky Mountain or Norco (only two I can think of off the top of my head).
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

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    Miele. I don know much about it. seems to me it is not that well known.

  18. #18
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    A lot of bikes these days come with hydraulic hose guides in case you run hydraulic brakes, and the intended fallback for those using cables is to slip these onto the cable housings:



    ...and then wedge it into the hose guide like this:



    So if your frame happened to come with some mystery split-tube things like those, that's what they're all about. The reason I hate them is that the ones Large Bicycle Company "T" sends with their new bikes generally won't fit into the hose guides, in which case it's zip-ties to the rescue.

  19. #19
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahLZ View Post
    Miele. I don know much about it. seems to me it is not that well known.
    Nice! Love their roadies never seen their MTBs IRL
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

  20. #20
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    Thanks for the pics, very helpful.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    Nice! Love their roadies never seen their MTBs IRL
    same as this one http://www.sekaimon.com/i200624706754


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