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  1. #1
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    DT Swiss 370 internals

    Hey all. Just wondering if I can put my 370 hubs on a bit of a diet by upgrading the internals with lighter components. The docs on the DT website don't offer much (when they actually open) info on this - i'm assuming that I could at least swap the rear out for a 370sl kit.

    They've done some miles, and could do with a good service anyways, so I was thinking it couldn't hurt....

  2. #2
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    They are light already at the location of the wheel to begin with where the weight has minimal impact on the performance of the wheel...

    ...so what's the point?

    Kewl weight weeny brownie points?

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
    3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrabbit View Post
    ...so what's the point?

    Kewl weight weeny brownie points?

    =8-)
    Most definitely not - 60cm CAAD9 with Ultegra 6700 is tidy, but safe to say it's not gonna strut a weenie catwalk anytime soon.

    More to the point, hubs could do with a transfusion anyway - they've done a lot of k's with only 1 rear clean. Just figured that if I could, I would because I can.

    If I can?

  4. #4
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    ...heck while you are at it then...

    1. Why not do "drillium" on the hubs shells?
    2. Why not go with hollow carbon quick releases?
    3. Heck, why not go with non-sealed exposed cartridge bearings and save another 2 grams?
    4. Why not do "drillium" on any CNC axle parts?

    ...of course you didn't hear it from me.

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
    3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrabbit View Post
    ...heck while you are at it then...

    1. Why not do "drillium" on the hubs shells?
    2. Why not go with hollow carbon quick releases?
    3. Heck, why not go with non-sealed exposed cartridge bearings and save another 2 grams?
    4. Why not do "drillium" on any CNC axle parts?

    ...of course you didn't hear it from me.

    =8-)
    Ok, but what I am hearing is that you don't know the answer to the original question - which you seem happy to disguise behind borrowed dribble.

    But, hey - it's sunday, what do I care.

  6. #6
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    Mrrabbit seems to have gotten out on the wrong side of his hole this morning. But he's basically right. There are very limited (if any) options for alternate internals on these, or in fact any hubs.

    Hubs are just about the most durable and long lived components on a bike. Give your hubs a thorough overhaul, and there's a good chance you won't need to spend a dime. Or replace those few parts that need it to keep them working like new.

    There are many places to upgrade bikes, but short of replacing hubs entirely, this isn't one.
    FB
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrabbit View Post
    They are light already at the location of the wheel to begin with where the weight has minimal impact on the performance of the wheel...

    ...so what's the point?

    Kewl weight weeny brownie points?

    =8-)
    dou

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrabbit View Post
    ...heck while you are at it then...

    1. Why not do "drillium" on the hubs shells?
    2. Why not go with hollow carbon quick releases?
    3. Heck, why not go with non-sealed exposed cartridge bearings and save another 2 grams?
    4. Why not do "drillium" on any CNC axle parts?

    ...of course you didn't hear it from me.

    =8-)
    che

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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Mrrabbit seems to have gotten out on the wrong side of his hole this morning. But he's basically right. There are very limited (if any) options for alternate internals on these, or in fact any hubs.

    Hubs are just about the most durable and long lived components on a bike. Give your hubs a thorough overhaul, and there's a good chance you won't need to spend a dime. Or replace those few parts that need it to keep them working like new.

    There are many places to upgrade bikes, but short of replacing hubs entirely, this isn't one.

    I had considered building a new wheel set and keeping this one as a "rainy day" item, but chances are I'd find I couldn't be bothered going down to the shed and fishing them out if it's raining. Then, there's the chance that Murphy would insist that the rain stops 5 min into the ride on the rain wheels OR rain 5 min into the ride on the new wheels. (Bloody Murphy.....)

    Brought me to thinking, sure - the rims are shagged, let's get new rims (Velocity A23), and tie them to my 370 hubs - which have been basically untouched to the point that they are just getting a bit scratchy.

    Now I don't know much about hub internals, other than that they have an axle and some sealed bearings inside a machined shell. I'm guessing it doesn't cost much to overhaul them, so what am I looking for - a complete kit of some description?

  10. #10
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    Nah...I'm fine today. It's just that it amazes me that people can't be happy with their perfectly good hubs as-is. And the DT hubs are very good hubs...no question about that.

    Just overhaul...put new bearings in, etc., and ride 'em...and get more reliable miles out of 'em as the OP already has.

    I mean, I COULD...keyword is COULD...toss the steel forks on my Sintesi and replace 'em with carbon, junk the Daytona 10 speed gruppo and replace with the latest Campy skeletal carbon stuff...go with hollow carbon QRs, swap in ceramic bearings everywhere, ditto for a saddle that feels like balsa wood, and bars that feel like a "bong" on the moon...

    ...but then...there's a lot more you can achieve with the money than just, "because I can."

    ...and I'd still be quiet happy with my Sintesi as-is.

    To the OP...got a girlfriend or wife?

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
    3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewd reed View Post


    Now I don't know much about hub internals, other than that they have an axle and some sealed bearings inside a machined shell. I'm guessing it doesn't cost much to overhaul them, so what am I looking for - a complete kit of some description?
    Usually all that needs to be replaced are the two bearings. In many cases even these can be saved if they are unsealed, or if sealed only on the outer side. Then upon an eyeball examination you may find that all they need is a good flush and regrease.

    I don't keep rainy day bikes and good bikes, all my bikes are outdoor vehicles and have to be able to handle whatever weather they encounter. Proper set up and lubrication in advance is key to that.
    FB
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    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

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    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Usually all that needs to be replaced are the two bearings. In many cases even these can be saved if they are unsealed, or if sealed only on the outer side. Then upon an eyeball examination you may find that all they need is a good flush and regrease.

    I don't keep rainy day bikes and good bikes, all my bikes are outdoor vehicles and have to be able to handle whatever weather they encounter. Proper set up and lubrication in advance is key to that.
    Ok, cool - thanks. Just the advice I was after.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrabbit View Post
    Nah...I'm fine today. It's just that it amazes me that people can't be happy with their perfectly good hubs as-is. And the DT hubs are very good hubs...no question about that.

    Just overhaul...put new bearings in, etc., and ride 'em...and get more reliable miles out of 'em as the OP already has.

    I mean, I COULD...keyword is COULD...toss the steel forks on my Sintesi and replace 'em with carbon, junk the Daytona 10 speed gruppo and replace with the latest Campy skeletal carbon stuff...go with hollow carbon QRs, swap in ceramic bearings everywhere, ditto for a saddle that feels like balsa wood, and bars that feel like a "bong" on the moon...

    ...but then...there's a lot more you can achieve with the money than just, "because I can."

    ...and I'd still be quiet happy with my Sintesi as-is.

    To the OP...got a girlfriend or wife?

    =8-)
    bag

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrabbit View Post
    Nah...I'm fine today. It's just that it amazes me that people can't be happy with their perfectly good hubs as-is. And the DT hubs are very good hubs...no question about that.

    Just overhaul...put new bearings in, etc., and ride 'em...and get more reliable miles out of 'em as the OP already has.

    I mean, I COULD...keyword is COULD...toss the steel forks on my Sintesi and replace 'em with carbon, junk the Daytona 10 speed gruppo and replace with the latest Campy skeletal carbon stuff...go with hollow carbon QRs, swap in ceramic bearings everywhere, ditto for a saddle that feels like balsa wood, and bars that feel like a "bong" on the moon...

    ...but then...there's a lot more you can achieve with the money than just, "because I can."

    ...and I'd still be quiet happy with my Sintesi as-is.

    To the OP...got a girlfriend or wife?

    =8-)
    Kinda happy with the sound of your own voice there, aren't you mate? You should learn to listen a little more, and think before you mouth off.

    It "amazes" me, how people who know not much about anything have a tendency to mouth off about nothing - usually from a soapbox labeled "ME-ME-ME".

  15. #15
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    You asked about putting your 370s on a diet....remember?

    =8-)

    Now if you had asked about what bearing is used for replacment, and a break-out doc for the procedure...

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
    3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

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    Be thankful ya got the one with the right side bearing outboard. You can replace the 6000 and 6900 bearings with full ceramics for about 200 bucks. Save a few grams if that BS is important to ya.

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    Quote Originally Posted by davidad View Post
    Be thankful ya got the one with the right side bearing outboard. You can replace the 6000 and 6900 bearings with full ceramics for about 200 bucks. Save a few grams if that BS is important to ya.
    Nah, not required mate - thanks for the tip though. Got a contact at DirtWorks, and have sorted the re-build for pretty cheap - which is cool. Ordered some DT Comp spokes while I was on the phone. The hubs are 20 / 24 - would 2-cross front and rear be the general recommended lacing on this count? I'm 80kg with a full belly, and that's at my most unfit.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewd reed View Post
    Nah, not required mate - thanks for the tip though. Got a contact at DirtWorks, and have sorted the re-build for pretty cheap - which is cool. Ordered some DT Comp spokes while I was on the phone. The hubs are 20 / 24 - would 2-cross front and rear be the general recommended lacing on this count? I'm 80kg with a full belly, and that's at my most unfit.
    Yes, two cross is your best bet on the 24, the tangent angle would be the same as 3x with a 32. The front could be either radial or 2x, the tangent angle will match a 3x 28 or 4x 36.
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    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Yes, two cross is your best bet on the 24, the tangent angle would be the same as 3x with a 32. The front could be either radial or 2x, the tangent angle will match a 3x 28 or 4x 36.
    Thanks again for the tips. Got it all happening today, and lined up for 2x on the front.

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