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  1. #1
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    Olmo Superlight - Bike Build - Seeking Suggestions/Support

    Hello:

    Just acquired a frame from ebay and getting set to build it up. The frame is a repainted Olmo Superlight with Columbus Genius frame - 57cm seat tube and 56 cm top tube. I am 6ft with about a 31.5" inseam - 165lbish.

    Here's a few pics of the frame:
    Frame1.jpgFrame2.jpgFrame3.jpg

    My goal is to build a comfortable bike for long distance riding with adequate ability to go up steep hills. I am choosing components with light weight and aesthetically matching the frame as priority but want to keep about $1k usd budget but know I will go over.

    Here's what I am planning so far. Let me know whether there are compatibility issues and whether some other part will work better in place of what I have planned.

    Shifter - Shimano 6700 - Already purchased on ebay as of yesteday $270 shipped - 445grams

    Crank - Shimano 7950 - Plan to find one on ebay for $450 shipped when available - 635 grams plus BB 90 grams - 725 grams

    FD - Shimano 7800 - Plan to find one on ebay for about $40 shipped when available - 67 grams

    RD - Shimano 7900 - Plan to find one on ebay for about $120 shipped when available - 166 grams

    Brakes - Modolo Speedy - I got some spares which I think will look good on the bike but don't know whether I have compatibility or performance issues here -guessing 300 grams

    Chain - Shimano 7900 - About $55 shipped via Amazon - 252 grams

    Quill adapter - Deda Elementi - $16 shipped from PBK - 147 grams

    Steer adapter - Thompson 1" -1'1-8" shim - $6 via Amazon - insignificant

    Stem - Deda Zero Servizio Corse 110mm -8 degree - ebay for about $65 shipped - 107 grams

    Handlebar - not sure either Deda or 3T - Want to stay under 250 grams and $100ish - Probably have to avoid carbon because I will install a Profile Design aero bar that is on my other bike right now - 250 grams

    Pedal - Look Keo Cromo Blade 12nm - $190ish via ebay - 230 grams

    Bar wrap - Deda carbon - $22ish - weight insignificant

    Wheels, Cassette and tires - Ultegra 6700 wheel set, 7800 12-27 with Hutchinson Atom tubeless - spare set - 960 grams

    I add this up to $1400 and 7539 grams or 16.62 lbs. Total weight is inclusive of the frame, fork and headset which is 5.5lbs or 2450 grams. Not bad for steel frame though busting my budget a bit.

    Thanks for your help!

  2. #2
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    I don't know the exact change that Shimano made, but the sources I can find claim that the Dura Ace 7900 deraillers are designed to be used only with DA7900 levers. This makes your choice of a DA7900 RD a risky one as you may not be able to tweak things to perfection due to the incompatible cable pulls. A DA7800 RD or any version Ultegra and below will work just fine with your 6700 levers.

    Again, according to what I've read, you are trading off some braking power by not using the matching Ultegra 6700 brakes again due to a revised cable pull ratio. Older brakes will work but will feel firmer.

    Other than that, your component choices look sound. However, if you used 960 grams for your combined wheel/tire/cassette weight you will be a bit disappointed when you weigh the actual assembled wheelset. I think you'll be closer to 2500 grams all said and done.

  3. #3
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Isn't that a Campag logo on the back of the seat tube?
    is organ rejection possible?
    build it make it work, put the gram scale back in the closet.

  4. #4
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    your 6' with a 31.5 inseam? isn't a 57 a bit small?
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo SOLd, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis SOLD, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti SOLD, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe SOLD, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    I don't know the exact change that Shimano made, but the sources I can find claim that the Dura Ace 7900 deraillers are designed to be used only with DA7900 levers. This makes your choice of a DA7900 RD a risky one as you may not be able to tweak things to perfection due to the incompatible cable pulls. A DA7800 RD or any version Ultegra and below will work just fine with your 6700 levers.

    Again, according to what I've read, you are trading off some braking power by not using the matching Ultegra 6700 brakes again due to a revised cable pull ratio. Older brakes will work but will feel firmer.

    Other than that, your component choices look sound. However, if you used 960 grams for your combined wheel/tire/cassette weight you will be a bit disappointed when you weigh the actual assembled wheelset. I think you'll be closer to 2500 grams all said and done.
    Hi Joe:

    I think only the 7900 FD is specific to the 7900 shifter while 7900 RD isn't. At least, that's what I found from internet research while planning out my bike build. And, that's why I plan to use 7800 instead of 7900 FD. But, will look into this some more and maybe ask the LBS about this.

    And, you are right about the wheelset/cass/tires weight. It's actually 2610 grams all together. I forgot to include the weight of the wheelset in my excel sheet. However, the total weight I have above does include the wheelset. So, it's still good.

    Thanks for your comment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Isn't that a Campag logo on the back of the seat tube?
    is organ rejection possible?
    build it make it work, put the gram scale back in the closet.
    You are right it is a Campy logo. Well, the headset is a Campy Chorus if that makes any difference. It does make me feel better.

    Organ rejection is possible. The bike might reject the rider.

    The gram scale is just an indicator of the total sum of the parts just like the total price tag. The gram scale and the excel sheet will go into the closet after the bike is built.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    your 6' with a 31.5 inseam? isn't a 57 a bit small?
    If Italian frames have similar fit the same as Italian cars and Italian pants do, then I am in trouble.

    All my previous bikes including the Bottecchia you've seen in my other bike build thread are all 58cms and fit me just fine until this year. Either I am shrinking or I am leaning towards smaller frames as I am getting stronger as a cyclist. The Bottecchia is just for casual commuting so it's no prob. But, for more serious riding, I think I prefer a smaller frame now.

    The competitive cyclist website actually calculates that I should be riding a 54cm....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by etane View Post
    Hi Joe:

    I think only the 7900 FD is specific to the 7900 shifter while 7900 RD isn't. At least, that's what I found from internet research while planning out my bike build. And, that's why I plan to use 7800 instead of 7900 FD. But, will look into this some more and maybe ask the LBS about this.
    On reading some more myself, it sounds like you are correct regarding the 7900 RD.

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    The 5700 series just dropped into my radar screen. I am leaning towards the new 5700 series for the RD, FD and crank. The price is much easier to absorb and get closer to my budget. Performance wise, the few reviews online say they are indistinguishable from 7900/6700. Weight wise, I'd be adding maybe 1lb compared to what I have planned above? And, they come in silver/black. The last parameter is my main motivation for considering the 5700 series because I don't think 7900/6700 gray will look good on my frame. I don't know whether I want a black or silver crankset though. Black will match my bike but think black frame/black crank combo will give off that fixie look. What you guys think, silver or black crankset?

  10. #10
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    your 6' with a 31.5 inseam? isn't a 57 a bit small?
    Measure your bicycle inseam. 31.5" bicycle inseam for someone 6' would be quite rare. Google bicycle inseam, it will walk you through the process. My guess is that you will find it to be quite a bit more than that inseam number you list, if you are 6'. Frame is small for you, but might be doable.

    IMHO, traditional geometry bikes size out differently than the modern, sloped top tube stuff.
    Last edited by wrk101; 08-04-11 at 10:31 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by etane View Post
    What you guys think, silver or black crankset?
    On a classic-styled steel frame, definitely silver IMO. I like black cranks (both my carbon fiber bikes have black CF cranks) but the aesthetic doesn't work as well for me on a skinny tubed frame. To be really honest, I don't like the look of the new Shimano cranks in general on a skinny tubed frame. Stronglight and TA both make some good looking cranksets if you don't mind the slight mismatch of components.

  12. #12
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    .... website actually calculates that I should be riding a 54cm....
    Perhaps frame design with sloping top tube..

    I judge frames by virtual top-tube length a horizontal line, in those cases.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
    Measure your bicycle inseam. 31.5" bicycle inseam for someone 6' would be quite rare. Google bicycle inseam, it will walk you through the process. My guess is that you will find it to be quite a bit more than that inseam number you list, if you are 6'. Frame is small for you, but might be doable.

    I always look for the thrifty way to complete a quality build. Usually, building a bike up is a money losing proposition versus just buying exactly what you want (used of course). I make the numbers work by finding a donor bike, with the components I want, and then swapping everything. A side benefit of this swap is that I know all of the components play well together, no compatibility issues or concerns.

    It is much, much cheaper than buying parts one at a time. All of my builds have been completed this way, built four bikes this week (unusual for me to do that many, usually its more like one or two).

    I like to buy complete bikes for my builds, rather than framesets. Even if the components are not what I want, I will swap component sets with the donor bike, and resell the donor, or I will sell the excess components to offset the cost of the build. It is not unusual for me to end up with a free upgrade (cost of donor bike was less than what I resold it for with swapped out parts).
    Oh 31.5" would be my pants inseam not my bike inseam. I didn't know there's such a thing as bike inseam. I googled and found bike inseam includes the height of your feet but while legs are spread apart by 6-8"s. I guess you can add an inch or two to my pants inseam to get my bike inseam that is until I get home to measure.

    Thanks for the tip on the thrifty way to buy components! A bit of a drag to sell the frame off after pilfering the components, but I know what you're getting at.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    On a classic-styled steel frame, definitely silver IMO. I like black cranks (both my carbon fiber bikes have black CF cranks) but the aesthetic doesn't work as well for me on a skinny tubed frame. To be really honest, I don't like the look of the new Shimano cranks in general on a skinny tubed frame. Stronglight and TA both make some good looking cranksets if you don't mind the slight mismatch of components.
    I agree with you regarding the silver and Shimano's overall space age shape. Not famiiliar with Stronglight or TA. Going to check it out. Not sure about component mismatch though...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Perhaps frame design with sloping top tube..

    I judge frames by virtual top-tube length a horizontal line, in those cases.
    I think competitve cyclist does the same.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by etane View Post
    Not sure about component mismatch though...
    There's not much you need to know other than this:

    1. Unless the manufacturer specifically states that their BB will work with another crank or vice versa, don't try to mix and match.
    2. Shimano's front deraillers are not as tolerant of chainring size jumps as they used to be (9 speed and earlier). The only way this might affect you is if you want to use a different pairing of chainrings than Shimano's standard offerings. You are looking at compact cranks so just avoid a cross version with tightly spaced rings and you shouldn't have any issues.

    On point #2 I know this because I built my LOOK using a Stronglight triple crank that came with 52/42/30 chainrings (my preferred setup) and I tried to use a Shimano 6603 FD intended for 52/39/30 chainrings. The derailler inner cage interfered with the 42 ring when trying to select the 52 unless I mounted the FD way higher than intended (which affected shift performance). I settled on using a 9 speed era FD for a few years until Shimano released the 5603 FD intended for 50/39/30 chainrings. The tighter spacing of the top two rings made the new 5603 FD a better match for my Stronglight crank.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    There's not much you need to know other than this:

    1. Unless the manufacturer specifically states that their BB will work with another crank or vice versa, don't try to mix and match.
    2. Shimano's front deraillers are not as tolerant of chainring size jumps as they used to be (9 speed and earlier). The only way this might affect you is if you want to use a different pairing of chainrings than Shimano's standard offerings. You are looking at compact cranks so just avoid a cross version with tightly spaced rings and you shouldn't have any issues.

    On point #2 I know this because I built my LOOK using a Stronglight triple crank that came with 52/42/30 chainrings (my preferred setup) and I tried to use a Shimano 6603 FD intended for 52/39/30 chainrings. The derailler inner cage interfered with the 42 ring when trying to select the 52 unless I mounted the FD way higher than intended (which affected shift performance). I settled on using a 9 speed era FD for a few years until Shimano released the 5603 FD intended for 50/39/30 chainrings. The tighter spacing of the top two rings made the new 5603 FD a better match for my Stronglight crank.
    Good suggestions.

    I parked my bike at work this morning and noticed the bike next to mine has 5700 series RD, FD, shifters and a Stronglight crank on his Cannondale. I never heard of Stronglight before. Today, within hours, I see and hear of it twice. Hmmm.... It's interesting how I started leaning towards 5700s and I see them this morning and now the Stronglight cranks... anyways it's intersting to me.

    Took a look at Peter White's site when looking for the TAs. The Carmina looks very nice. They Zephyr Lite is, well, very light. Both are pricy though comparable to what I can get the 7900 on ebay. Going to do more research tonight. I think the site mentions Zephyr's compatibility with Shimano components just not the bottom bracket.

  18. #18
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    Unfortunately, it's tough to compete with Shimano's alloy cranks on weight. None of the non-carbon Stronglight cranks are all that light. The TA cranks use square taper bottom brackets which you may not like (if you are going for a "latest tech" type of build).

    This Sugino crank looks interesting but it seems like a Japan-only item: http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/japan/ox801d_main_japan.htm

    Older alloy Campy Record cranks are pretty light but finding a compact might be impossible (don't think they ever made one). They would look perfect on an older frame though: http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Campagnolo-R...item48401dc3bb

  19. #19
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    Hey, I found the Sugino available on Soma's site: http://store.somafab.com/suoxcoplrocr.html

    Thankfully, the crank doesn't look as good in the SOMA site as it does on the Sugino site. The price SOMA is selling the crank for is not cheap.

    I am really leaning towards the TA Carmina. The square taper and black spider will look good on the Olmo I think.

    I don't really have an opinion on the bottom bracket square vs external debate as I never really explored the subject matter much.

    Anyways, I am glad you provided me with some alternatives to Shimano cranks.

  20. #20
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    Starting to swing towards Campy Chorus 10s group in lieu of Shimano now... Main reason for wanting to keep with Shimano is so I can use my spare Shimano wheelset... but Campy will look much better on the frame...

  21. #21
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    I think I am pretty sure I will end up with a Chorus group set. Just not sure whether I will end up with a new 2011 11 speed or an older 10 speed yet.

    Either way, I will need a new Campagnolo compatible wheelset. I want to stay under $1000 ($600 preferably) either new or used. Here are some I am looking at so far:

    Easton EA70
    Easton EA90 SLX (yes, I know a bit over my budget)
    Reynolds Solitude
    Reynolds R2
    Campagnolo Neutron

    I would rather use tubeless wheels but the only Campagnolo ones I know of are the 2-way fit ones and those are very pricy. I love my Ultegra 6700 with Hutchinson Atom tubeless.
    Last edited by etane; 08-07-11 at 12:13 AM.

  22. #22
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    How it look wid this rim?

    Last edited by etane; 08-15-11 at 11:40 PM.

  23. #23
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    C record , all the way ..

    It looks like there are no tires on those wheels , and on the wrong side of the frame

    but photoshopping in parts is cheaper than buying them.

  24. #24
    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    C record , all the way ...
    He's trying to build a light bike.......
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma; 1991 Paramount PDG 70 Mtb; 1976? AD Vent Noir; 1989 LeMond Maillot Juane F&F; 1993? Basso GAP F&F; 1989 Terry Symmetry; 2003 Trek 4700 Mtb; 1983 Vitus 979

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    C record , all the way ..

    It looks like there are no tires on those wheels , and on the wrong side of the frame

    but photoshopping in parts is cheaper than buying them.
    Feel free to photoshop some tires on there for me.

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