Sanding Carbon fiber wheels to remove Decals
#26
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Rear wheel was a nightmare. They put the decal right on the carbon/epoxy layer, then clear coat over. Front had some clear, then decal, then clear. So I had to grind it out with brute force and left some deep scratches from the emory cloth, then hit it with 150 and 400 wet to smooth it before clear coating.
Used some Vaspar satin clear coat with UV blocking properties out of the can. Since I emailed a pro carbon frame repair place, the guy was nice and said it was a home job, and not for them, and said what I was doing was completely fine. They basically do the same thing in the shop.
Used some Vaspar satin clear coat with UV blocking properties out of the can. Since I emailed a pro carbon frame repair place, the guy was nice and said it was a home job, and not for them, and said what I was doing was completely fine. They basically do the same thing in the shop.
Last edited by zigmeister; 04-11-12 at 09:01 AM.
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Looks good but from 400 to 150 grit is not the way to do things, the idea is go from havier grit to lighter grit, when i rear emery cloth I almost...
Well looks good
Well looks good
#28
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I went Emory cloth, 150, 400 dry, then 400 wet. That got it pretty smooth with just a few deep spots in places that the emory cut into due to the decals on the rear being right on the carbon/epoxy later. The front wheel had clear, decal, then another clear. So removing/sanding those was pretty easy and the surface is beautiful.
The clear coat filled in any minor scratches still in the rear wheel due to the decal being right on the carbon/epoxy layer the emory cloth left.
Heat, acetone, nor goof-off would get the decals off. I had to use the emory cloth to sand them off right down to the epoxy/carbon layer they were sitting on. But I wasn't getting any black carbon dust ever. Which means I will still on the clear layers and decal and not damaging the carbon. The dust was always white/residue white.
The slight roughness now is due to the clear coat being sprayed and not having 1000 grit since Lowes didn't even carry it. I just used some rubbing compound and removed much of the roughness. Some 1000 grit wet would be nice with a buff afterwards to get it real smooth. But comparing it to a tubular carbon wheel I have, the surface isn't that much rougher, so I'm not so concerned about the additional roughness.
From talking with a few carbon frame repair guys, either my method of just sanding, then heat to remove stickers is what they do. Or some use safe chemicals to remove clear coat/paint that don't go into the epoxy/carbon and won't damage the structure. But either method works. If I did it again, I would prefer a chemical method to remove the clear/decal, then some prep sanding before re-shooting the clear. Sanding is a lot of work, and it has to be done by hand due to the spokes and other delicate parts of the wheel assembled.
Live and learn. Wasn't that bad at all. Just time consuming and my fingers hurt for a few days.
Edit: picked up some 1500 wet from the local auto parts store. Best place to find that stuff in case anybody wants to know. Wet sanded the surface, wiped it down, then waxed the wheels. Smoother than my tubulars from a well known wheel company now...sweet.
Stealth mode is sweet. Next time, just buy wheels I can remove the decals off of easily, or that come with no decals.
Last edited by zigmeister; 09-09-11 at 12:52 PM.
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Hi there, big bump i guess, but i would like to get more info on how you did this, i am planning to do it myself, as i cannot find a company that will....
Help me out please!
Help me out please!
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I hate to point this out after all your hard work but - have you noticed the writing on your tyres? They're not stealth, people will still see you coming. And what about that fancy racing jersey with all those furrin adverts on? I think this is a work in progress....
Just a thought
Anyway, never mind all this twaddle, how do I get an emoticon into this post?
Just a thought
Anyway, never mind all this twaddle, how do I get an emoticon into this post?
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