Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1369 Post(s)
You omitted a key point in your OP. While you said the chain was relatively new, you failed to mention that it was running on an older cassette. Odds are you have a classic new chain/old cassette issue. Normally these show up immediately when the chain is replaced, but yours might have been on the edge and need a bit more time.
Start by measuring tour chain for stretch so you know where you stand, then see if you have or can borrow a comparable cassette wheel in newer condition. If your chain runs the other cassette OK, then yours is toast.
If replacing the cassette, you face a dilemma, since your worn chain will age it more rapidly than a brand new chain would. In your shoes, I'd replace both the chain can cassette, and keep your existing chain to rotate in after 1,000 miles when the old chain catches up in wear. Then switch back and forth at set intervals to keep both chains and the cassette matched in wear.
This is the best way to maximize life of both parts and enjoy smoother running longer than sequential chain replacement at 1/2% stretch. I keep 3 chains per bike, rotating them at about 1,000 miles, and by doing so am normally able to run them all well past the normal replacement point, some times 3-4 times beyond (1.5-2% stretch), though obviously by then the cassette is toast.
To make rotation easier, each chain has a reusable connector link. And while on deck the chains are lubed and prepared for remounting.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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