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  1. #1
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    schwinn traveller 3 restoration

    hi every 1
    i just finished a paintjob on my schwinn traveller 3 im not sure what year its from but i think its 1979(code on headbadge says 0489). So im tryin to put it altogether. I got the crank and all its parts(i dont know what its called) removed along with the headset from a local shop. To put it all back the guy is charging 125$ so i figured id buy the tools and do it myself(which seems the cheaper alternative). So far i have installed the headset and the handle bars so thts not a problem. I think i will be able to put the cables and the derailers and the brakes.I wanted to kno what tool will i need to remove the casette from the rear wheel ( because need to remove the metal plate behind it ), if its any help it says shimano UG on it. I found many casette lockring remover on amazon but wasnt sure which is compatible. Also will i need any special tool to put the crankset ,hub and the adjacent parts back on ? I have many everyday use tools like wrenches ,spanners etc,so thts not a problem
    any help is appreciated

  2. #2
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    A cassette lockring tool will not work - you need a freewheel remover. Maybe this one if you have a UG freewheel. http://www.bikeman.com/TL7203.html. Or you could pay a shop to remove it. You can put he freewheel back on by hand - it will tighten when you ride the bike.
    If you didn't remove the bottom bracket, replacing the crankset will likely require just a socket wrench - perhaps 14 or 15 mm socket. Depends on the crankset.
    Posting pics here will be helpful. If you did remove the BB, then you'll need more tools.
    Check out the Park Tool site for detailed information about bike repair and adjustment.
    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
    Last edited by JanMM; 08-23-11 at 06:33 PM.
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  3. #3
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    2.jpg4.jpg1.jpg3.jpg
    hi janMM thanx for u r reply ,here are the pictures ..so the freewheel remover u suggested (available at bikeman .com) will work 2 remove this casette rt? and im not sure what type of bottom bracket i have or is there only 1 type,i tried to follow the parktool website but cudnt figure it out...can u tell by the piks?
    thankx once again
    Last edited by the accountant; 08-23-11 at 07:19 PM. Reason: missed

  4. #4
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    the axle is square at the ends

  5. #5
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    Looks like a basic loose balls/cup and cone, Square taper BB. You will need a wrench to fit the fixed cup, pin spanner for the adjustable cup and a lockring wrench for the adjustable cup lockring. A set like this would work but may be hard to find. http://www.google.com/imgres?q=sugin...1t:429,r:3,s:0
    Your axle uses nuts instead of crank fixing screws - 14mm socket?
    I can't say for sure if there are different kinds of UG freewheel removers. The Bikeman site indicates that one size fits all. The shapes of the remover and your freewheel look the same.
    You would need a chainwhip to hold the freewheel in order to loosen it and a (large) wrench to turn the remover.
    Last edited by JanMM; 08-23-11 at 07:56 PM.
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    ok i have the wrenches and sockets, also once i install the bb ,what abt the crankset will it just slip on to the square tapered end(same for the crank arm on the non drive side)or will i have to use hammer +brute force or there's a special tool for tht..and just to make sure this is the order of the bb ..drive side to non drive side.. fixed cup ,bearings,plastic thingy,bearings ,adjustable cup,lockring right?
    thankx again u have no idea how much help u are

  7. #7
    SE Wis dedhed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JanMM View Post
    You would need a chainwhip to hold the freewheel in order to loosen it and a (large) wrench to turn the remover.
    No chainwhip needed to remove a freewheel, or wrench if you have a vise. Put the tool in a vise, set the the wheel on it and turn the wheel like a steering wheel to crack it loose. You may need to use a QR to hold the tool in, but not usually on the shimano stuff.
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  8. #8
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    I've got one of those. I'ts my first real road bike and it has been good to me.
    The crank arms slide on to the square tapered axle.
    I usually slide them on and give it a good wack with a RUBBER hammer. Then tighten down the bolts as much as I dare.
    The lock ring on the left side of the BB (bottom bracket) shell is what keeps things tight after you've adjusted the BB play.

    Have fun and ride on...
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    Last edited by Scrockern8r; 08-23-11 at 10:17 PM.
    - Solo Attack: When you attack, let the sprint group lead you out. You take no points. But when they sit up, you put your head down and hold threshold. Remember: When you see Jesus you are still about 2 minutes from blacking out. Hang on.

  9. #9
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrockern8r View Post
    I've got one of those. I'ts my first real road bike and it has been good to me.
    The crank arms slide on to the square tapered axle.
    I usually slide them on and give it a good wack with a RUBBER hammer. Then tighten down the bolts as much as I dare.
    The lock ring on the left side of the BB (bottom bracket) shell is what keeps things tight after you've adjusted the BB play.

    Have fun and ride on...
    This is not a bad strategy. The torque spec on those nuts is 25 to 35 ft. lbs. of torque. That's a lot more than most people can exert with a normal socket wrench. Get a torque wrench and find out- more crankarms are ruined by not tightening them enough.
    Jeff Wills

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    thankx jeff ,so what u r saying is just slip on the crankset and than use a torque wrench so tht it will be back in as the nut moves in? or hammer it in like scorkernr8r says above and than use the wrench(PS im afraid the 2nd way will ruin the paint job i have painted the crank arms )

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    thanx dedhed
    but i think ill buy the chain whip as i dont own a vise and they seem much more expensive than chain whips

  12. #12
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    Keep in mind that if you are replacing the chain you may need a new freewheel.
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  13. #13
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    no i just want to clean the casette and remove the steel plate thts behind it...i will post pics once i fnish putting it altogether thanx pnce again every 1

  14. #14
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    That steel plate is a spoke protector. Some would say that a Varsity isn't a Varsity without a heavy chromed steel spoke protector.
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    oh ok but is it a bad idea to remove it? i mean wud it make a difference if my deraiuler s are properly tuned

  16. #16
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the accountant View Post
    thankx jeff ,so what u r saying is just slip on the crankset and than use a torque wrench so tht it will be back in as the nut moves in? or hammer it in like scorkernr8r says above and than use the wrench(PS im afraid the 2nd way will ruin the paint job i have painted the crank arms )
    If you're afraid of ruining the paint, then just put the arms on and tighten them down. As I said above, they need to be tight.
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  17. #17
    SE Wis dedhed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the accountant View Post
    thanx dedhed
    but i think ill buy the chain whip as i dont own a vise and they seem much more expensive than chain whips
    Well, go ahead and buy the chain whip, but it isn't going to help you remove a freewheel.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
    '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400

  18. #18
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
    Well, go ahead and buy the chain whip, but it isn't going to help you remove a freewheel.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
    Agreed. Disregard my previous advice about a chain whip.
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  19. #19
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    thanx janMM and dedhed tht will save me a couple of buks ,i suppose the socket remover shud suffice it than

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