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  1. #1
    bikes also suck.
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    Noob wheel building question: What am i doing wrong?

    Trying to build my first set of wheels, and i'm running into problems right away.
    I'm building the standard 32 spoke, 3-cross, and i'm following the instructions in Jobst Brandt's book pretty close (I think). The first two set of spokes go in fine. I get the hub turned as far as it will go, but when i start putting the cross spokes in i just can't make the buggers reach.

    Is there a common problem that i'm running into here? My LBS, who i trust, measured the spokes, so I don't think they are too short. what else could this be?
    what kind of bell should i get for my track bike?

  2. #2
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    I started wheel building using a combination of Jobst's book, and the Sheldon Brown pages, http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

    If you follow Sheldon's method for lacing, and have a build wheel to check against, it should work.

  3. #3
    Bikaholic blamp28's Avatar
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    Are you fully threading on the first set? If so, that could be your issue. I thread all nipples on two full turns at first until all spokes are laced then bring the tension up on all spokes a little at a time.
    Trek Fuel XC MTB, Giant OCR Road Bike, Rans Screamer - Tandem

  4. #4
    bikes also suck.
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    I've been going with 4 full turns on each nipple (as per jobst's advice). I tried again with less threading per nipple, which seemed to help, but spokes still didn't quite make it, and the nipples that were on kept falling off.

    Jobst suggests putting the first two sets of spokes on straight and then rotating the hub, whereas sheldon brown seems to advocate starting with the hub already rotated. Is this a 6/half-dozen issue, or is there an advantage to either of these methods?
    what kind of bell should i get for my track bike?

  5. #5
    Senior Member theblackbullet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by musicsucks View Post
    I've been going with 4 full turns on each nipple (as per jobst's advice). I tried again with less threading per nipple, which seemed to help, but spokes still didn't quite make it, and the nipples that were on kept falling off.

    Jobst suggests putting the first two sets of spokes on straight and then rotating the hub, whereas sheldon brown seems to advocate starting with the hub already rotated. Is this a 6/half-dozen issue, or is there an advantage to either of these methods?
    doesn't really matter which way you do it as long as the spokes are in the correct spot, but to get the leading spokes started, you will have to get the hub rotated. make sure that when you try and rotate the hub that none of the nipples are hanging up on the rim keeping it from twisting completely.

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    I had a similar problem with my first build. I realized that I was (incorrectly) lacing each side in the same direction (when viewing from the side). I had to go back and lace one side clockwise and the other counter clockwise. I hope that's not too confusing. Difficult to put into words.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by musicsucks View Post
    Trying to build my first set of wheels, and i'm running into problems right away.
    I'm building the standard 32 spoke, 3-cross, and i'm following the instructions in Jobst Brandt's book pretty close (I think). The first two set of spokes go in fine. I get the hub turned as far as it will go, but when i start putting the cross spokes in i just can't make the buggers reach.

    Is there a common problem that i'm running into here? My LBS, who i trust, measured the spokes, so I don't think they are too short. what else could this be?
    Did you double check with a spoke calculator ? Trustworthy people make mistakes .
    Last edited by Homebrew01; 08-26-11 at 11:16 AM.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  8. #8
    Member brokencase's Avatar
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    Yea, post the rim effective diameter and your hub measurements and we can verify your spoke length.

  9. #9
    bikes also suck.
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    Okay, i've got an alexrims x2100 which, according to the internet, has an ERD of 598.4

    And an old Tiagra hub, which again according to the internet has a flange diameter of 38mm and a hub to flange center of 34.

    My spokes are 287. I think they ought to be 293. Does this sound right?
    what kind of bell should i get for my track bike?

  10. #10
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    293.42 @ 293.00 it is...

    ...ya got the wrong size spokes fella...they won't work for 2X either...

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
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    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

  11. #11
    Map maker cbchess's Avatar
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    wrong spokes size! I had that happen once when I ordered some spokes. They came in a bundle and 1/2 the spokes were the wrong size. I had measured correctly but they sent the wong ones.

  12. #12
    bikes also suck.
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    Went back to the bike shop. Apparently they had measured for a 2x. Got some longer spokes. They laced up nice. Will try to true them up tomorrow, hopefully it works out.
    what kind of bell should i get for my track bike?

  13. #13
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Did you lace up all trailing or leading spokes first, rather than one whole side first?

    Cause I don't think that's the way to go; you'll have to lace up 16 spokes rather than 8 to find out you have the wrong size - which is obvious now...

    I lace a whole side first, then the remaining heads-out spokes next. It's easier to handle when you get the 9th spoke in rather than waiting until the 17th. Although it does take practice to be able to lace up the last 1/4 without bending them too far.

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