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  1. #1
    Senior Member 1989Pre's Avatar
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    126mm Skewer in Ti

    Does anybody offer (or offered in the past) a titanium, 126mm skewer for road bike?
    All I am seeing is steel in this length. I know that I can use a 130mm, and KCNC has some nice ones, but I'd like to get the right size and not have to cut the extra length off. I'm actually looking for a set, 126+100mm

    Paul

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    By the time boutique skewers hit the market, 130 mm hubs were the norm so all the Ti and similar skewers I've ever seen were offered in 130 mm but were threaded far enough to let you use them on 126 mm hubs and cut off the extra length (or leave it in place if you preferred the "Ben Hur" look).

    BTW, I trust you are going to use these on a frame with vertical dropouts. Those external cam skewers don't have the clamping force needed to reliably hold the rear wheel in position in horizontal dropouts.

  3. #3
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Zeus made a proper, enclosed cam quick release with titanium end caps and a steel shaft, but they went belly-up about 20 years ago...


  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    Zeus made a proper, enclosed cam quick release with titanium end caps and a steel shaft, but they went belly-up about 20 years ago...

    Wow, I never saw one of those. However, I took it that the OP was asking about Ti shafts (some with Al end caps too) and those are relatively new. I have a pair of Specialized branded Ti/Al skewers I got from Performance a few years ago and they were very light but that was their only attraction. They now decorate my parts box.

  5. #5
    Senior Member 1989Pre's Avatar
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    Just curious, John: What did those Zeus' weigh in at? I can imagine that they would weigh 3 or 4 oz less than the standard, chromo variety.

    Paul





    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    Zeus made a proper, enclosed cam quick release with titanium end caps and a steel shaft, but they went belly-up about 20 years ago...


  6. #6
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    BTW, I trust you are going to use these on a frame with vertical dropouts. Those external cam skewers don't have the clamping force needed to reliably hold the rear wheel in position in horizontal dropouts.
    I'm quoting this simply because it deserves repeating.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
    I'm quoting this simply because it deserves repeating.
    But in this case it'd be a tight race between the external cam and the extra elasticity of Ti as compared to steel as being the biggest concern...

  8. #8
    Senior Member 1989Pre's Avatar
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    My 1989 Technium does not have vertical dropouts. They are horizontal. Does this mean I can not use Ti skewers? This is the first time I had considered trying Ti, because I just had new wheels built for the bike. External cam? I had not even heard of it. Are you saying that a rear wheel could thrust forward upon heavy pedaling pressure? Thanks in advance.

    Paul

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1989Pre View Post
    My 1989 Technium does not have vertical dropouts. They are horizontal. Does this mean I can not use Ti skewers? This is the first time I had considered trying Ti, because I just had new wheels built for the bike. External cam? I had not even heard of it. Are you saying that a rear wheel could thrust forward upon heavy pedaling pressure?
    Thanks in advance.
    Paul
    Yes, that's exactly what we are saying. Horizontal dropouts do not play well with Ti skewer rods and particularly those with external cam qr's. Most boutique and untralight skewer sets do have external cams. Here is an illustration of an external cam skewer: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Qr+Skewer.aspx Enlarge the picture and look at the end with the clamping lever.

    The standard Shimano/Campy-style internal cam type with steel rods are THE way to go. Also, a steel end nut or one with a serrated steel insert should be used to be sure the nut gets a good "bite" on the dropout face. Here is a typical internal cam skewer: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...0+Skewers.aspx This is what you need.

  10. #10
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Yes, that's exactly what we are saying. Horizontal dropouts do not play well with Ti skewer rods and particularly those with external cam qr's. Most boutique and untralight skewer sets do have external cams. Here is an illustration of an external cam skewer: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Qr+Skewer.aspx Enlarge the picture and look at the end with the clamping lever.

    The standard Shimano/Campy-style internal cam type with steel rods are THE way to go. Also, a steel end nut or one with a serrated steel insert should be used to be sure the nut gets a good "bite" on the dropout face. Here is a typical internal cam skewer: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...0+Skewers.aspx This is what you need.
    +1

    The rear skewer of a horizontal dropout bike is not the place to save a few grams. It will slip at the worst possible time (when you're hammering on it) and you could easily hurt yourself. Save the extra weight elsewhere. Maybe a new frame? Judging by the amount of money you appear to be sticking into this build.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  11. #11
    Senior Member 1989Pre's Avatar
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    Thank you all for saving me some heartache and buttache. Boy, I am sure glad you people warned me.
    On the other hand, I do not see any functional difference between those two different types of skewers, Hill. I'll make sure I ask and research before buying, though.

    Paul











    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Yes, that's exactly what we are saying. Horizontal dropouts do not play well with Ti skewer rods and particularly those with external cam qr's. Most boutique and untralight skewer sets do have external cams. Here is an illustration of an external cam skewer: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Qr+Skewer.aspx Enlarge the picture and look at the end with the clamping lever.

    The standard Shimano/Campy-style internal cam type with steel rods are THE way to go. Also, a steel end nut or one with a serrated steel insert should be used to be sure the nut gets a good "bite" on the dropout face. Here is a typical internal cam skewer: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...0+Skewers.aspx This is what you need.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1989Pre View Post
    [SIZE=3][B][FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=darkred]Thank you all for saving me some heartache and buttache. Boy, I am sure glad you people warned me.
    On the other hand, I do not see any functional difference between those two different types of skewers, Hill. I'll make sure I ask and research before buying, though.
    The external cam surface has a larger diameter than the internal so that friction from closing the lever acts on a longer moment arm.

    IOW, for a given force applied to the lever more is used to overcome friction in the open-cam design and less to clamp the wheel.

  13. #13
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1989Pre View Post
    On the other hand, I do not see any functional difference between those two different types of skewers
    Check this out: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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