Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Work in Asia, now based in Vienna, VA
    Posts
    1,352
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Scratch treatment on fine, alloy C&V components

    Scratches on nice C&V components. Sigh.

    I pretty much hang out in the C&V section. When something comes up thatís a bit too ... well, specific, then I come here.

    I have a vintage piece that, if perfect, would be worth gold. But, it isnít and it ainít.

    Besides just cleaning, bit of rubbing and declaring them battle scars, are there specific home-brew options for making this 1st generation C-Record RD look better?



    If these were MY battle scars, Iíd wear them proudly. Unfortunately, this came off a 1985 (531 anniversary decals) Mercian. I am the second owner. It was originally purchased fully dressed in 1st Gen C-Record (not Delta brakes, tho).

    But the first owner abused it, caring little for its condition. It was a long-distance CL buy, and I was/am a bit too trusting. Some real issues were hidden, and the seller proved a right jerk. A bonafide lounge lizard. Thereís a kink in the drive chain stay. The axle lines up fine, but the derailleur angle is off.

    I can comment that this classic RD shifts like an utter POS. I donít think Iíve ever had such poor performance. BUT, it is most likely a problem from the kink, which is quite nearby, rather than the fault of this RD. Iíve disassembled the RD, and it doesnít appear to be bent. I actually do have another of these derailleurs in the treasure trove, but my eye-ball comparison is inconclusive.

    Anyway, pretty much every component on this bike, including the saddle, is scratched up.

    I leave aside, for now, the question about the kink in the drive side chain stay.

    SO, the question here is what, at best, can I do about these scratches Ė besides ignore and use? A little Mothers Mag & Alum polish, Scratch-X, what else?

    Thanks.
    1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (still my favorite!)
    1963 Hetchins Mountain King (the gravel grinder)
    1971 Gitane Tour de France (The War Horse)
    1971 Gitane Super Corsa (The Garage Queen)
    1980 Ritchey Touring (The Grail Bike)
    1984 Tom Ritchey Team Competition (NOS show bike)
    (replacing the stolen 1981 Tom Ritchey Everest custom)

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Houston, TX
    My Bikes
    Giant FCR3, Cannondale Synapse Carbon
    Posts
    191
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My restoration experience is with automobiles but I think the same techniques will work for you. I would glue 600 wet or dry sandpaper on a tongue depressor and wet sand the surface. Using the tongue depressor as backing will keep you from rounding the edges, particularly the logo. It does not look to me like you will be able to remove the deep scratches without loosing some of the logo; you'll have to decide just how deep you want to sand. Then I would graduate to 1200 grit wet or dry glued to a tongue depressor. It looks like the piece had a satin finish and the 1200 will give a similar appearance. If you want a chrome plated look, graduate to 1500 grit, then rubbing compound and finally a polish like Mequiar's #7. Go slowly, be patient.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    21,002
    Mentioned
    47 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    The problem with scratch removal on almost all aluminum components is that they're anodized. Any effort to polish down to the level of the scratch means samding or polishing off the anodized layer.

    There are three problems with doing that.

    1- the base metal is usually a bit darker, more the color of steel, than the silvery color of the anodizing.
    2- bare aluminum is vulnerable to corrosion. Over time, it forms a self protective oxide layer, which is a bit whiter than the base metal (like when it's anodized), but the presence of salt, water, or any corrosive agent can disrupt this process causing pitting and attacking the structure of the component.
    3- It's almost impossible to maintain a decent finish on non-anodized aluminum, so removing the anodizing is a poor choice for collectors.

    I suggest you leave it alone, clean it as well as possible. Use a wax and see if it camouflages the scratches at all. If the scratches are darker there is a chemical process that lightens them and you can try before sealing it with wax.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    ďNever argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.Ē, George Carlin

    ďOne accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinionsĒ - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Work in Asia, now based in Vienna, VA
    Posts
    1,352
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks, guys. I'll take the less aggressive route. A bit more cleaning, light hand polish, then wax. Guess it'll become a "conversation piece" on a rider. . . presuming it isn't actually bent.

    I'll need to put in onto another bike to test her out.


    Cheers.
    1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (still my favorite!)
    1963 Hetchins Mountain King (the gravel grinder)
    1971 Gitane Tour de France (The War Horse)
    1971 Gitane Super Corsa (The Garage Queen)
    1980 Ritchey Touring (The Grail Bike)
    1984 Tom Ritchey Team Competition (NOS show bike)
    (replacing the stolen 1981 Tom Ritchey Everest custom)

  5. #5
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Oz
    My Bikes
    copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
    Posts
    6,828
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Isn't it possible to fully disassemble Campy derailleurs?

    If so, then you could have the parts re-anodised... or try it yourself for some mad home-brew props.

    IIRC, caustic soda is the go for removing the old anodising before polishing.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •