Whoops, read the wrong product info - FD - problem???
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,445
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4234 Post(s)
Liked 2,949 Times
in
1,808 Posts
Whoops, read the wrong product info - FD - problem???
So I decided to change my crankset on my commuting/grocery getting/everything else bike from a more touring/mtb oriented 24-36-[46 or 48 - I counted twice and got 47 both times] Biopace crankset to a more road oriented triple. I got a good deal on a late 90's RSX 30-42-52 crankset that should be able to use my current BB (JIS square taper - I wanted a triple because I like triples and also a triple would mean not having to replace my bb as opposed to a compact double which would require a different spindle length). So far so good, right?
Because I'm getting a larger big chainring I also decided I should get a new front derailleur (heck, the oval of the biopace was probably pushing the tourney FD I had on there). I found a new in box 105 5603 FD on ebay for ~$15 shipped, so I figured I was good to go (NIB was important because that meant it came with the 28.6 to 31.8 mm shims that most people try selling separately on the bay for another $10 - or they've just tossed if it's used).
After I won it last night, I was looking more closely though and realized that I'd looked at the spec sheet for an older 105 FD (maybe 5503?) that could handle a 52T big ring and a 22T difference. Apparently, the 5603 version is optimized for 50T and a 20T difference.
Is this like rear derailleurs where the makers are overly cautious about the capacity and it can actually handle a few more teeth without a problem, or will this be an issue?
I friction shift if that matters at all.
Also, I read that Sheldon wrote that even though this is a 10 speed FD made to work with 10 speed chains, it should work just fine with the wider 8 speed chain. Is that still true? I'm going to be using a 7 speed freewheel on the back.
Because I'm getting a larger big chainring I also decided I should get a new front derailleur (heck, the oval of the biopace was probably pushing the tourney FD I had on there). I found a new in box 105 5603 FD on ebay for ~$15 shipped, so I figured I was good to go (NIB was important because that meant it came with the 28.6 to 31.8 mm shims that most people try selling separately on the bay for another $10 - or they've just tossed if it's used).
After I won it last night, I was looking more closely though and realized that I'd looked at the spec sheet for an older 105 FD (maybe 5503?) that could handle a 52T big ring and a 22T difference. Apparently, the 5603 version is optimized for 50T and a 20T difference.
Is this like rear derailleurs where the makers are overly cautious about the capacity and it can actually handle a few more teeth without a problem, or will this be an issue?
I friction shift if that matters at all.
Also, I read that Sheldon wrote that even though this is a 10 speed FD made to work with 10 speed chains, it should work just fine with the wider 8 speed chain. Is that still true? I'm going to be using a 7 speed freewheel on the back.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#2
Senior Member
What type of shifters will you be using? If friction shifters, expect to have to trim the front derailler frequently to avoid chain rub with the narrow cage 10 speed derailler. Perhaps you could switch to a 9 speed chain to make things a little better. If you have indexing shifters, you'll either need to live with the chain rub or buy a different front derailler.
As far as capacity of the derailler is concerned, you'll be fine with the 5603. I'm using one on my road bike with the same chainrings as you plan to run. Do note that the inner cage is optomized for an 11T difference between the outer and middle chainring. A 10T difference means you'll need to carefully set up the derailer so that it clears the middle ring when shifting to the outer ring but is not too high above the outer ring. It's possible with the 5603, not so with the 6603.
As far as capacity of the derailler is concerned, you'll be fine with the 5603. I'm using one on my road bike with the same chainrings as you plan to run. Do note that the inner cage is optomized for an 11T difference between the outer and middle chainring. A 10T difference means you'll need to carefully set up the derailer so that it clears the middle ring when shifting to the outer ring but is not too high above the outer ring. It's possible with the 5603, not so with the 6603.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,445
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4234 Post(s)
Liked 2,949 Times
in
1,808 Posts
hmm, maybe I should go for a 5503 (or even an 8 speed older one if I can find it) that's designed for the crankset I want to use. Feel stupid for looking at the wrong year's tech sheet. Didn't occur to me that they'd change the size of the rings between years, so I guess I didn't look closely enough.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#4
Senior Member
The 5503 will certainly be easier to setup and with a 9 speed chain will run flawlessly. If you want to keep using an 8 speed chain, this is your ticket: https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=435717
Sorry for missing your comment on friction shifting in your first post. I need to "read" more and "scan" less sometimes.
Sorry for missing your comment on friction shifting in your first post. I need to "read" more and "scan" less sometimes.
#5
Banned.
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,095
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
more than likely it will work just fine, for the small amount you paid for it I would try it out first. My biggest concern is that you say you don't need a new bottom bracket. I'm not totally sure on this but I thought going from a double to a triple would necessitate a change in BB but don't hold me to it.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
No problem if it's on a friction shifting bike. I have a FD-5603 on my Surly Cross Check that has an 8-speed 105 triple crank (FC-1057) with 52/42/26 chainrings and an 8-speed SRAM chain. Shifting is by Shimano 8-speed downtube shifters on Kelly Take-Offs so the front is friction.
It works fine and requires a lot less trimming than I expected. I did have to mount it about 1 mm higher than ideal to get the inner cage plate to clear the 42T middle ring but shifting is good and clean even under load. You should be happy with the combination.
It works fine and requires a lot less trimming than I expected. I did have to mount it about 1 mm higher than ideal to get the inner cage plate to clear the 42T middle ring but shifting is good and clean even under load. You should be happy with the combination.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,445
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4234 Post(s)
Liked 2,949 Times
in
1,808 Posts
No problem if it's on a friction shifting bike. I have a FD-5603 on my Surly Cross Check that has an 8-speed 105 triple crank (FC-1057) with 52/42/26 chainrings and an 8-speed SRAM chain. Shifting is by Shimano 8-speed downtube shifters on Kelly Take-Offs so the front is friction.
It works fine and requires a lot less trimming than I expected. I did have to mount it about 1 mm higher than ideal to get the inner cage plate to clear the 42T middle ring but shifting is good and clean even under load. You should be happy with the combination.
It works fine and requires a lot less trimming than I expected. I did have to mount it about 1 mm higher than ideal to get the inner cage plate to clear the 42T middle ring but shifting is good and clean even under load. You should be happy with the combination.
I'm sure I'll have to make a few adjustments, but I doubt it'll be any worse than setting up my current tourney FD to deal with the oval shape of my biopace big chainring. Hopefully, it'll shift nicer too.
more than likely it will work just fine, for the small amount you paid for it I would try it out first. My biggest concern is that you say you don't need a new bottom bracket. I'm not totally sure on this but I thought going from a double to a triple would necessitate a change in BB but don't hold me to it.
The 5503 will certainly be easier to setup and with a 9 speed chain will run flawlessly. If you want to keep using an 8 speed chain, this is your ticket: https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=435717
Sorry for missing your comment on friction shifting in your first post. I need to "read" more and "scan" less sometimes.
Sorry for missing your comment on friction shifting in your first post. I need to "read" more and "scan" less sometimes.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
Last edited by himespau; 08-29-11 at 09:43 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
volantis
Bicycle Mechanics
10
08-11-15 09:18 AM
Barrettscv
Bicycle Mechanics
4
01-17-10 10:02 AM