Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 587 Post(s)
You're looking at things backward.
The wheel should be centered in the fork or frame, and the brakes adjusted to the wheel. Then as long as the brakes are roughly centered so neither side rubbing when open they're fine. Better centering allows for closer adjustment, but once the adjustment has the lever throw where you want it, more even centering isn't any better.
BTW- Get in the habit of closing the QR with the bike vertical on level ground. This ensures that the wheel is always in the same place, firmly against the tops of the dropouts. If that isn't centered in the fork or frame, see the local dealer and see if they can resolve it. (better bikes will or should be spot on, less expensive bikes aren't built as closely and might not be, but this can be corrected).
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance