Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-08-11, 09:34 PM   #1
reverborama
Broom Wagon Fodder
Thread Starter
 
reverborama's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Minnesota
Bikes: Fuji Supreme; Kona Wo; Nashbar road frame custom build; Schwinn Varsity; Nishiki International; Schwinn Premis, Falcon Merckx
Posts: 1,232
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
SRAM Rival RD Adjustment

I am having a heck of a time getting the RD just right on my wife's bike. The upper jockey pulley grabs at the chain making a clicking noise when in the big ring and smaller cogs (7th, 8th, 9th). If I turn in (slacken) the barrel adjuster I can make the noise go away but then I can't select the largest cog (1st) in either chainring. When I turn out the barrel adjuster to tighten the cable I so that I can select 1st, I go back to having the clicking noises in the smaller cogs. When you look closely and turn the crank slowly, you can see the chain stick to the pulley in certain positions as it threads through the derailleur.

I examined the jockey pulley and there are no burrs or odd teeth. I would switch the upper and lower pulleys or flip them over but they makings indicating upper/lower and direction of travel.

I have the upper and lower limit screws, I believe, adjusted correctly because by with the proper cable tension you can get to 1st without shifting into the spokes and you can select 10th without going off the bottom.

I fooled with the the "B" screw (or whatever SRAM calls it) and that didn't change anything so I returned that to a setting that is fairly close to the biggest cog but not touching.

I made sure the RD hanger was tight. I don't have a hanger alignment gauge but the bike has never been over or hit. If something is tweaked, I don't have the tools to measure that.

Any suggestions?
reverborama is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 08:40 AM   #2
Vince Canepa
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Bikes: 1978 Jack Taylor "Tour of Britain", 2010 Cannondale CAAD9-4, 2013, Cannondale Supersix Evo Red Racing, 1969 Jack Taylor Ladies "Tourist" (wife's), 2010 Specialized Dolce Sport (wife's)
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What cassette are you using? I had a similar problem with my Rival/SRAM cassette/Shimano freehub setup and found the lock ring wasn't tight enough to lock all the cogs. I actually had to overtighten the locknut by 2-3 ft-lbs. to cure it. Seems crazy that such a small thing could cause it but that fixed it.

Also, on my son's CAAD9 with Shimano 105 he had a similar problem and the LBS found a slightly bent derailleur hanger despite the fact that the bike had never been dropped. It may be worth a trip to a shop.
Vince Canepa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 10:25 AM   #3
reverborama
Broom Wagon Fodder
Thread Starter
 
reverborama's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Minnesota
Bikes: Fuji Supreme; Kona Wo; Nashbar road frame custom build; Schwinn Varsity; Nishiki International; Schwinn Premis, Falcon Merckx
Posts: 1,232
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
I'll take a look at the lock-ring. That's a good idea!
reverborama is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-11, 05:54 PM   #4
Camilo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 4,140
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
OK, if you're absolutely sure that nothing else is out of whack, adjust your cable tension like this:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...=#post12671697

(look for post #3 in the thread, a step by step for index/cable adjustment.)

But, you need to make sure that the lock ring is tight, the wheel is seated straight, the hanger isn't bent and the B and H and L stops are right (which it sounds like you've already done)
Camilo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 10:21 AM   #5
reptilezs
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Bikes:
Posts: 2,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
hanger alignment is really the first step of rear derailer adjustment. what size cassette?
reptilezs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 11:57 AM   #6
pfweeks
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What shifters are you using? Hopefully SRAM Rival, Force, or Red? Also, have you checked the chain with something like this: http://www.gastoncountycyclists.com/...n_Checker.html If the chain is worn, the bike will still seem fine in the often used gears but will skip in the least often used gears.

I just thought of something else. I forget what the spacers and gears are like on my SRAM OG cassette. Maybe a missing or doubled up spacer? Is it a SRAM cassette? Was the cassette removed or serviced recently or ever?

Last edited by pfweeks; 09-10-11 at 12:12 PM.
pfweeks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-11, 02:04 PM   #7
rydabent
Senior Member
 
rydabent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lincoln Ne
Bikes: RANS Stratus TerraTrike Cruiser
Posts: 5,747
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 154 Post(s)
My Sram 7 RD says to adj the "B" screw for a clearance between the largest sprocket and the jockey wheel to 6mm. It shifts flawlessly and probably would be a good starting point.
rydabent is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-11, 09:07 PM   #8
reverborama
Broom Wagon Fodder
Thread Starter
 
reverborama's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Minnesota
Bikes: Fuji Supreme; Kona Wo; Nashbar road frame custom build; Schwinn Varsity; Nishiki International; Schwinn Premis, Falcon Merckx
Posts: 1,232
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
The shifters and all components are SRAM Rival.

I pulled the wheel off to check the lockring. It appeared to be tight. Put it all back together and it shifts like a dream. It must have been slightly misaligned. Not sure how that happens with vertical dropouts, but putting it all back together seems to have solved the problems. She did the race with no problems at all. I'll be keeping my eye on that...
reverborama is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:05 PM.