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  1. #1
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    Derailer broke clean off, cable chopped, buying a new drivetrain.

    Kitted ones were really expensive, and I need help figuring out if the parts I want to buy are compatible (I'm a college student with a bit of a price range) It's an '89 Cannondale 3.0 Aluminum series bike I believe... These are the parts I was going to grab:

    -vintage shimano deore pedals and drive crank arm and chainrings 52, 45, 30

    - Shimano STX 7 Speed Rear Derailer

    - Shimano 7 Speed ST-EF60
    3 x 7 Shifters / V-Brake Levers Set

    -Shimano ST-EF60 Shifter Brake Lever EZ Fire 3X7sp 2

    I'm gonna need a new front derailer too, I'm in the process of finding one

    I'm trying to upgrade as inexpensively as possible from my tube shifters...
    If this just looks completely out of whack I'm sorry I'm new to the bike world

  2. #2
    we be rollin' hybridbkrdr's Avatar
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    My own personal point of view on the 52/45/30 chainrings. In a hilly area like mine with a somewhat heavy bike, I would prefer a middle chainring that would be under 38 (like 34, whatever). And 30 for the smallest chainring is still a little big. Maybe 26 or 24.

    I read rear derailleurs don't have speeds so it should be compatible with your shifters. I prefer shifter and brake levers seperately so I can adjust them at different angles.

    Do you have a cassette for freewheel?
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  3. #3
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    zwalk, To be clear, which derailleur broke off, front or rear? I'm guessing this is a mountain bike as you mentioned V-Brakes so there is a possibility that the front derailleur cage won't match well with the road style crankset. Unless you have V-Brakes already the lever set will deliver sub par braking.

    Brad

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    Wow I'm really impressed by everyones eagerness to help.

    Its a road bike, those shifters are compatible with v brakes and disc...I kinda forget what mine are theyre kinda old.

    Oh and its a rear derailer and from what I can tell its a casette

  5. #5
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Got any pictures (= 1000 words) ? Did the hanger break off ? The hanger is the part of the frame the rear derailleur screws into.
    I'm not 100% clear on what you want to do.
    If your shifters are friction, or have a friction option, then you can mix & match a lot. For indexing, you need to be picky about compatibility.
    Last edited by Homebrew01; 09-19-11 at 01:07 PM.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  6. #6
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Well, if you have a road bike, then some of that MTB stuff is not going to fit. Yours should have side pull caliper brakes for example if you have a road bike. Post a pic of your bike, something is not quite right.

    Do you have a hybrid??

    Given the drivetrain you are looking to use, the cheapest option IMHO is to just pick up a complete MTB, ready to ride, put some smooth tires on it, and you are set. Mixing components, the lack of clarity of the exact details are both ways to end up spending extra money on stuff that doesn't fit right, isn't compatible with other parts, or whatever.

    Even if your bike is cassette, you could have issues, as in 1989, a lot of Cannondales came with UNIGLIDE freehubs (obsolete).

    Research first, grab parts later. Parts that come in the form of a complete bike have lower risk, as you know all of those parts play well together.
    Last edited by wrk101; 09-19-11 at 01:05 PM.

  7. #7
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    Pics incoming.
    Its a 2 gear front crank (not sure if thats how to describe it)
    Rear is 6.

    I'm looking to just get all new stuff I'm over all the problems I've been having.

    Please dont insult my ghetto paintjob haha.

    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/839/img1485jq.jpg/
    http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/img1513mu.jpg/

    Thanks again, I haven't gotten this much help on a forum in a while lol

  8. #8
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Not good. The hanger looks very bent. Aluminum does not like getting bent back & forth. You MIGHT be able to have it bent back and aligned by someone with the correct tool. Don't spend any money on parts until you have a bike shop determine if the frame can be saved. If you're lucky, then the frame has a replaceable hanger, but I can't tell from the picture.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew01 View Post
    Not good. The hanger looks very bent. Aluminum does not like getting bent back & forth. You MIGHT be able to have it bent back and aligned by someone with the correct tool. Don't spend any money on parts until you have a bike shop determine if the frame can be saved. If you're lucky, then the frame has a replaceable hanger, but I can't tell from the picture.
    Which part is the hanger, the bike shop didn't mention anything about the frame just my drivetrain is all they have said needs work

    bought it used for 150, theres been lots of surprises

  10. #10
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    zwalk, Okay, first things first, it's a road frame. Bad news is that the rear derailleur hanger is integral to what's called a dropout rather than one that is replaceable (I also have an '89 Cannondale roadie.) and as it's aluminum maybe difficult to straighten. Post a picture like this..
    3.0 600 RDa.jpg
    ..and one from the rear if you would.

    Brad

  11. #11
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zwalk View Post
    Which part is the hanger, the bike shop didn't mention anything about the frame just my drivetrain is all they have said needs work

    bought it used for 150, theres been lots of surprises
    Did the bike shop actually see the bike ? Or just get a verbal description ?

    This blue frame has a replaceble hanger. You can see that the bottom hole where the derailleur attaches is made of a separate piece of metal and attaches to the frame. Once aluminum gets a severe bend, it's often too fragile to bend back, and since hangers often get damaged, the replaceable hanger was invented. Now, I have fixed old Cannondale broken dropouts by rewelding in a new piece, but it's not something that is recommended or easily done.

    A shop, with a hanger alignment tool MIGHT be able to bend it back well enough to make it work ...... It's worth a try, but don't be surprised if they say it broke off or got a bad crack while trying to fix it.



    This steel one is non-replaceable. It's all part of the bike and cannot be replaced (maybe re-welded). Steel is stronger, so it won't bend as badly, and can better handle being bent back.

    Last edited by Homebrew01; 09-19-11 at 07:36 PM.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  12. #12
    Senior Member gyozadude's Avatar
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    From the 2nd imageshack pic, the RD hanger looks bent out about 20 deg. maybe to the right (yaw) and about 5 - 10 deg inward at the bottom (roll). There's also some kinking at the top curvature of the dropout. I can't tell by the quality of the photo whether that is just paint or some artifact of the picture quality or if the dropout is delaminating (maybe multiple layers of aluminum on that cantilevered dropout?). It's a tough call. It may be possible to bend it back and still retain some structural integrity. But it's hard to say. I'd have a hard time guarantying any work done to cold-set the RD hanger. It's possible to heat the aluminum, but to reach working temps, we're talking hot stuff - over 400C for hours and hours. And then a long, slow cool, and aging at a certain temp for some amount of time, and then quenching. Not sure if the paint would survive. But not a cheap process to do with a damaged frame. Probably cheaper to buy and new frame or turn it in for a warranty/replacement at some fee. Not sure if Cannondale still offers that. Maybe.
    Yes, I can roll my own potsticker skins!

  13. #13
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    As others have said, proceed with great caution.
    It may not be possible or practical to use that frame.
    If you can use the frame safely it will be really easy to waste a lot of money buying parts for it that aren't compatible.
    The six speed rear cluster is either Uniglide cassette or freewheel. Most indexed shifters on the market will not be compatible. It would be simpler, less expensive, and more trouble free to use the old shifters or similar shifters.

  14. #14
    we be rollin' hybridbkrdr's Avatar
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    If you're not aware, Nashbar sells cheap frames. And if you want to find quality 8 speed shifters on eBay, there are sometimes new old stock Shimano MC41 shifters for sale. I think going to 8 speed is slightly more rational sine 7 speed hubs are somewhat harder to find. I'd go with a Handspun rear wheel, Sram 11-32 cassette, KMC chain, MC41 shifters, Sugino Impel 150 crankset (42/34/24, don't forget the crank bolts), Shimano BB-UN54 bottom bracket (aluminium cup for the left side optional) and MKS Sylvan Touring pedals (or whatever you feel like, you can always put grip tape on them and Dimension reflectors).

    Also, rear derailleurs don't have any "speeds" so you could use a 9 speed Deore rear derailleur. And you could add Shimano Acera brake levers if you're replacing shift/levers.
    Last edited by hybridbkrdr; 09-20-11 at 06:40 PM.
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  15. #15
    sch
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    One other aspect to the 52/45/30 triple, you need an FD with a small vertical cage
    which are not common now. EG: http://bike.shimano.com/publish/cont...road/sora.html

    In this photo from the shimano site, there are two FD pictured, the one on the R has
    a large vertical amount of sheet metal on the back on the cage, the one on the L has
    a much smaller amount of vertical sheet metal and is more appropriate for a 52->45
    or even a 52->42 CW jump. The cage on the R will hit the 42 or larger CW when placed
    in the 'correct' position and won't shift. Cage on R is designed for the 52/3->39 that
    is common for the past few years on triples (and all doubles for much longer) and will not clear a larger than 39t middle cw.

    OTOH I think the frame is toast. It might be possible to saw off the
    hanger if it cracks and outboard a new mount.

  16. #16
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    The shop has see the bike on multiple occasions and never mentioned the hangar I dont thing.

    If it really is shot, if I got this frame http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0_10000_202389

    its cheap and lightweight and such, and had them throw all my parts on it...

    I feel like I'm going to get owned with labor

  17. #17
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    Heres the thing, my front derailer was a little bent but it was working ok so i havent replaced it, I got a rear 7 speed shimano STX derailer that I just bought for like 30 bucks.
    My casette is shimano and in pretty good shape, I didnt know if I should replace it, but its looking like I pretty much need a new bike which sucks because I just spent 150 on this one a month and a half ago.

    I can buy the frame I put in the above post...and I have a "Blaze" crankset, and "Blaze" front derailer I believe. They're kind of trash.
    I'm not sure if I should just buy new parts and pretty much come out with a new bike or what...

    I was gonna get the bike "fixed" and put the new derailer on it today but if its a lost cause I wont, I meant it'll look kind of ghetto but I'll get the frame and put all my old parts on it. Maybe but a new crankset and new FD...

    Will I need a new fork...this is just looking liek new bike territory which sucks because I was gonna pick up a MTB and possibly a camera lol

    This is all I found when I searched for those shifters on ebay

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-STX-...#ht_500wt_1154


    The thing is I need a bike, I'm parking my car where I shouldn't right now over near my school and its an accident waiting to happen
    Last edited by Zwalk; 09-26-11 at 12:17 PM.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Did you ask a good bike shop's opinion about fixing the hanger ?
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

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